wtf..... i tried the jumper trick to get the code..but the CEL just stays lit...my coolant temp sensor was broken off, so i replaced it and reset the ECU..and its still in limp mode!!

car is a '90 hatch si w/ b18a1


Modified by krol at 5:01 PM 3/29/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wtf..... i tried the jumper trick to get the code..but the CEL just stays lit...my coolant temp sensor was broken off, so i replaced it and reset the ECU..and its still in limp mode!!

car is a '90 hatch si w/ b18a1


Modified by krol at 5:01 PM 3/29/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you running an OBD1 ECU?

 

yeah..i think so anyway..i picked up the car on ebay already swapped from a deaf lady for $700

 

when i reset the ECU the light doesn't go away even for a little bit...so..i would think that is something serious...no?

should there be a resistor box on the driver side right by the prop rod?-- there are a few wires that were just spliced together..and it seems like ive seen a resistor box up there on some swapped hatches..

thanks-- Dareck

 

if your car has 4 injectors you need the resistor box

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redefsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your car has 4 injectors you need the resistor box</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wrong. Don't spread incorrect info.

You need a resistor box if you are OBD0, obd1 and 2 do not need them.

Your wires are spliced togeter to eliminate the resistor box, that means you are more then likely OBD1. Check your ecu itself, does it have light gray, 2 rows of pin plugs? Those are OBD1 plugs. If you are running the old black plugs, you are obd0, and then you need a resistor box.

 

its obd1 then.. but what whoud make the ecu go into limp mode right away after being reset?..o2 sensor is good..i dont know what else would do it..