RC 750CC + GE fuel rail + skunk2 mani install questions
Hello-
I am installing RC 750cc + GE fuel rail + skunk2 intake manifold on a gsr motor.
The RCs are new so I have all the o rings that come with them. I found that they simply sit on the lower IM o-ring, rather than push into the o ring. Is this information correct?
Also - I noticed there was about a 0.10" gap between the fuel rail mounts and the IM, so I made spacers out of 0.09" Al stock. Is this normal?
Any help would be appreciated
I am installing RC 750cc + GE fuel rail + skunk2 intake manifold on a gsr motor.
The RCs are new so I have all the o rings that come with them. I found that they simply sit on the lower IM o-ring, rather than push into the o ring. Is this information correct?
Also - I noticed there was about a 0.10" gap between the fuel rail mounts and the IM, so I made spacers out of 0.09" Al stock. Is this normal?
Any help would be appreciated
Here are some pictures to help illustrate my question.
Here are the fuel rail mounts

And here is the large o ring I was referring to... Should the injector be liek the first or second picture?


Thanks!!
Sebastian
Here are the fuel rail mounts

And here is the large o ring I was referring to... Should the injector be liek the first or second picture?


Thanks!!
Sebastian
2nd pic is the way you want it...look at your first pic down near the intake port of the manifold...see where the injector is going in...the oring is to seal that orifice...if it wasnt there fuel and air would leak and cause a big problem
I had mine like picture one for over 5k miles and never had a problem. If you do it like the second picture you will have to modify the ring to get it to fit right and is a PITA.
tepid-
Did you use any spacers for the fuel rail?
Also - this was the original document. Note the last comment:
"The injector does not go all the way through the lower manifold seal. Once the fuel rail nuts are tightened, the injectors are firmly placed against the seal. This will provide a leak proof seal in all vacuum and/or boost applications"

<FONT COLOR="blue">So - those of you who suggested the second method, did you have to trim the ID of the lower o-ring?</FONT>
Thanks!!!
Did you use any spacers for the fuel rail?
Also - this was the original document. Note the last comment:
"The injector does not go all the way through the lower manifold seal. Once the fuel rail nuts are tightened, the injectors are firmly placed against the seal. This will provide a leak proof seal in all vacuum and/or boost applications"

<FONT COLOR="blue">So - those of you who suggested the second method, did you have to trim the ID of the lower o-ring?</FONT>
Thanks!!!
If you use the second method it is incorrect. Even per RC instructions.
And yes, you would have to shave the inside with a dremel sanding wheel. I tried both methods.
When I ran my RC550cc's (same physical size as the 750cc's) I did not use any spacers. I do now, however, w/ my MSD 1000cc's.
I have spacers if you need them. They are brand new too still in the Honda package.
And yes, you would have to shave the inside with a dremel sanding wheel. I tried both methods.
When I ran my RC550cc's (same physical size as the 750cc's) I did not use any spacers. I do now, however, w/ my MSD 1000cc's.
I have spacers if you need them. They are brand new too still in the Honda package.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you use the second method it is incorrect. Even per RC instructions.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just so I am not confused: When you stated that the second method is incorrect, the lower o-rings are not to be pushed on the injector all the way... according to RC. Righto?
Which spacers do you have, the plastic ones with the three 'ears' around the circumference of the spacer? I think those would be too thick.
With your 550cc's that you had... did you notice the same gap between the rail and the IM? Did you just slowly tighten the rail to the IM to close the gap?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just so I am not confused: When you stated that the second method is incorrect, the lower o-rings are not to be pushed on the injector all the way... according to RC. Righto?

Which spacers do you have, the plastic ones with the three 'ears' around the circumference of the spacer? I think those would be too thick.
With your 550cc's that you had... did you notice the same gap between the rail and the IM? Did you just slowly tighten the rail to the IM to close the gap?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just so I am not confused: When you stated that the second method is incorrect, the lower o-rings are not to be pushed on the injector all the way... according to RC. Righto?
Right
Which spacers do you have, the plastic ones with the three 'ears' around the circumference of the spacer? I think those would be too thick.
Yes, the ones with the 3 little ears.
With your 550cc's that you had... did you notice the same gap between the rail and the IM? Did you just slowly tighten the rail to the IM to close the gap?
Yeah I had about a 1/4 to 3/8" gap. No big deal. Don't tighten it down all the way.... you'll most likely snap one of the 3 studs.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just so I am not confused: When you stated that the second method is incorrect, the lower o-rings are not to be pushed on the injector all the way... according to RC. Righto?

Right
Which spacers do you have, the plastic ones with the three 'ears' around the circumference of the spacer? I think those would be too thick.
Yes, the ones with the 3 little ears.
With your 550cc's that you had... did you notice the same gap between the rail and the IM? Did you just slowly tighten the rail to the IM to close the gap?
Yeah I had about a 1/4 to 3/8" gap. No big deal. Don't tighten it down all the way.... you'll most likely snap one of the 3 studs.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i used the 1st method, and used the factory plasic spacers on the fuel rail(with jg mani)
with skunk mani, i used the 1st method and bolt rail direct to mani, no spacer.
with skunk mani, i used the 1st method and bolt rail direct to mani, no spacer.
Hello again-
I got the injectors mounted just fine
my OBD1 injector clips do not push onto the 750's. I noticed there is a small time on the inner part of the injector connector thats impeding the clip to slide on all the way.
Do I need to buy RC clips? I was under the impression I could use my OBD1 ones
I got the injectors mounted just fine

my OBD1 injector clips do not push onto the 750's. I noticed there is a small time on the inner part of the injector connector thats impeding the clip to slide on all the way.
Do I need to buy RC clips? I was under the impression I could use my OBD1 ones
I also had my RC550s like the first picture. 
and typically you will have to take a small dremel and shave out that little inner tab of the injector connector. Then it should fit obd1 clips no prob. Some sellers will already have this done for you.

and typically you will have to take a small dremel and shave out that little inner tab of the injector connector. Then it should fit obd1 clips no prob. Some sellers will already have this done for you.
yeah listen to the rc instuctions, they made the injectors, im pretty sure they know how to install them. dremeling the IM o-rings is mainly for using dsm injectors. as far as the clips, my obd1 clips fit just fine on my rc550s, i dont see why they wouldnt work on the 750s.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohc_turd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and typically you will have to take a small dremel and shave out that little inner tab of the injector connector. Then it should fit obd1 clips no prob. Some sellers will already have this done for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep
ive used a dremel or a hot sodiering iron in the past. works every time
and typically you will have to take a small dremel and shave out that little inner tab of the injector connector. Then it should fit obd1 clips no prob. Some sellers will already have this done for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep
ive used a dremel or a hot sodiering iron in the past. works every time
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yep
ive used a dremel or a hot sodiering iron in the past. works every time
</TD></TR></TABLE>
really? Wow, okay... easy enough
lemme take a picture and see if you and I agree on the tab to burn down
yep
ive used a dremel or a hot sodiering iron in the past. works every time
</TD></TR></TABLE>really? Wow, okay... easy enough

lemme take a picture and see if you and I agree on the tab to burn down
The text smeared a bit when saving it to .jpg
the fuchsia color points to the 'inner tang' while the green is showing the 'outer tang'. The outer tang on the RC is a bit taller, does this need to be shaped?
And the fuchsia one on the inside also appears to be in the way.

Thanks!!!!
the fuchsia color points to the 'inner tang' while the green is showing the 'outer tang'. The outer tang on the RC is a bit taller, does this need to be shaped?
And the fuchsia one on the inside also appears to be in the way.

Thanks!!!!
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