What do you think of this Camber kit?
http://www.spcperformance.com/PerfPa...Part_Kits.html .
It comes with the front and rear camber kit and new LCAs. I'm not sure if i like the deisign of the front kit. They offer the balljoint, don't now if if i trust that. This is for a 93 si hb.
And the ancor bolts
It comes with the front and rear camber kit and new LCAs. I'm not sure if i like the deisign of the front kit. They offer the balljoint, don't now if if i trust that. This is for a 93 si hb.
And the ancor bolts
Specialty Products has been making alignment stuff forever. It should be good. Actually, I'm more interested in this:
http://www.spcperformance.com/PerfPa...art_62010.html
Looks like an interesting alternative to the Skunk2 upper A-arm. Guess I'll have to call for pricing.
[Modified by Geezer, 3:04 PM 5/23/2002]
http://www.spcperformance.com/PerfPa...art_62010.html
Looks like an interesting alternative to the Skunk2 upper A-arm. Guess I'll have to call for pricing.
[Modified by Geezer, 3:04 PM 5/23/2002]
Actually, I think several companies make a sliding arm application for the 6th gen civic... it's just the 5th gen and the 'tegs that have nowhere else to turn.
The only downside I can see about balljoint adjusters is they generally change the caster while they're changing the camber. I can't see enough of this one to know if it's the same way... That's not necessarily a bad thing, just a quirk.
added: Oh, and you have to take to somewhere to get the old joing pressed out and the new one put in. I'd much rather have a kit I could install myself.
[Modified by JeffS, 3:07 PM 5/23/2002]
added: Oh, and you have to take to somewhere to get the old joing pressed out and the new one put in. I'd much rather have a kit I could install myself.
[Modified by JeffS, 3:07 PM 5/23/2002]
I have used the adjustable ball joint SPC units for two years in competition, zero problems. I have never had a problem with slippage. SPC has changed them for the better since they gave me the set I am still using, correcting the clearance issues I initially had with them. The thickness of the control arm mounting nut and upper stud length were to deep and too long on the originals.
Changing the camber minimally effects the caster, but does effect toe alignment. The only down sides, they are heavier than stock joints and the thickness of the joint lower mounting surface will raise the static position of your upper control arms approximately 1/4".
[Modified by DB1-R81, 3:53 PM 5/23/2002]
Changing the camber minimally effects the caster, but does effect toe alignment. The only down sides, they are heavier than stock joints and the thickness of the joint lower mounting surface will raise the static position of your upper control arms approximately 1/4".
[Modified by DB1-R81, 3:53 PM 5/23/2002]

I've seen these before with a different name. They look pretty good and not only adjust camber, but caster also. I haven't seen this arm for the 92-95 Civic/94-00 Integra though.
$.02.... We're not having any problems with the Skunk arms.
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I seem to remember people having problems with the tops of the ball joints hitting the fender well and getting damaged and/or destroyed. I'd tell you to search, but since the search engine here SUCKS A$$ I can't very well do that.
How much camber do you have now, and what tires? For me, I run about 2.0 deg. static on all four corners, and...this is key...swapped the front upper control arms side to side. Which gives more caster, which is good. My tire temps are even across the board.
For the rear, I used the Ingalls adjustable upper control arm. Don't remember what they cost. They're not light, they're not all fancy looking and anodized, but they seem to get the job done.
--Karl, who if nothing else, has good tire temps...
How much camber do you have now, and what tires? For me, I run about 2.0 deg. static on all four corners, and...this is key...swapped the front upper control arms side to side. Which gives more caster, which is good. My tire temps are even across the board.
For the rear, I used the Ingalls adjustable upper control arm. Don't remember what they cost. They're not light, they're not all fancy looking and anodized, but they seem to get the job done.
--Karl, who if nothing else, has good tire temps...
"Karl, who has good tire temps"
"My tire temps are even across the board"
Scott, who don't wanna hear about Karls tire temps.....I don't know why I said that.....but, since I did, there's one of those Race Car Books (can't remember which one) that had a bunch of tire temp analysis and scenarios in it and I've been thinking I should look at it again....some stuff about F/R temp differences (rear temps lower calling for higher spring rate, front temps lower calling for higher front rate, etc....
"My tire temps are even across the board"
Scott, who don't wanna hear about Karls tire temps.....I don't know why I said that.....but, since I did, there's one of those Race Car Books (can't remember which one) that had a bunch of tire temp analysis and scenarios in it and I've been thinking I should look at it again....some stuff about F/R temp differences (rear temps lower calling for higher spring rate, front temps lower calling for higher front rate, etc....
I have stock springs and shocks, but I have the King camber kits.. can I still swap left to right? Or will I need height adjustability?
I think I remember that it alters the ride heigth...
I think I remember that it alters the ride heigth...
Yes, you can swap the King/Skunk ones.
Scott, who notes that increased caster also helps keep your car from Endo-ing under really heavy braking.....
Scott, who notes that increased caster also helps keep your car from Endo-ing under really heavy braking.....
OK, on a serious note...
Don't know Chris. It's a common mod amongst those of us with stock upper front control arms. But with the King pieces, can't you adjust caster? If so, no need to swap. If not...I'd call King.
--Karl, who went from 0 deg. to over 3 deg. of caster doing this, and has tire temps that are even ACROSS THE FACE OF THE TIRE, SCOTT
Don't know Chris. It's a common mod amongst those of us with stock upper front control arms. But with the King pieces, can't you adjust caster? If so, no need to swap. If not...I'd call King.
--Karl, who went from 0 deg. to over 3 deg. of caster doing this, and has tire temps that are even ACROSS THE FACE OF THE TIRE, SCOTT
I an sure I can swap them.... my question was would I need to alter the ride height. I remember reading that it made the front ride higher for some reason.....
I've heard of some people doing this... is this a recommended swap?
I'm using the Skunk2 arms, but swapping them should produce the same results...
I'm using the Skunk2 arms, but swapping them should produce the same results...
My experience was that the swap allowed me more static negative camber at the same ride height. So, I could raise the ride height, and retain my 2 deg of neg. camber. This is A Good Thing for people like me with stock-length shock bodies.
Maybe that's what you were thinking of?
Maybe that's what you were thinking of?
ahhh yes, I see...
Thanks for taking the time to clarify that for me...
Oh boy... whatever happened to "keep it simple"
the hole is getting real deep real fast!
Thanks for taking the time to clarify that for me...
Oh boy... whatever happened to "keep it simple"
the hole is getting real deep real fast!
Ok here is my setup. I have neuspeed race springs and neuspeed koni yellows. From what i understand the neuspeed koni yellows have a shorter shock body? I've never really bothered to get this cleared up. Anyway back to the subject, in the front i have the perches set one step below "factory" and the rear set "factory". I'm not sure how far my camber is out but i know i need a camber kit. The rear tires don't seem to ware though it looks to have more neg camber. The front do ware i've already ate a front set of tires. I gathering that maybe the skunk2 kit would be the best for me to get, though i have head of it hitting the strut tower as well. Hmmmmm to many factors and choices lol.
Travis
Travis
Karl,
Adding positive caster induces negative camber gain on the outside wheel when turned, which might allow you to run less static negative camber and get the same great tire temps you just love telling us about.
There should be very little change in ride height associated with the swap - it should be a non-issue.
Scott, who has theories about tire temps...I want a little more heat gradient across the tire than the other guy......good for certain curbs.....
Adding positive caster induces negative camber gain on the outside wheel when turned, which might allow you to run less static negative camber and get the same great tire temps you just love telling us about.
There should be very little change in ride height associated with the swap - it should be a non-issue.
Scott, who has theories about tire temps...I want a little more heat gradient across the tire than the other guy......good for certain curbs.....
Adding positive caster induces negative camber gain on the outside wheel when turned, which might allow you to run less static negative camber and get the same great tire temps
There should be very little change in ride height associated with the swap - it should be a non-issue.
There should be very little change in ride height associated with the swap - it should be a non-issue.
If i get the skunk2 kit will there still be an advantage to swaping the left for right ect.... This doesn't bind any suspension components does it? Do you recoment doing this on a street car, i want my tires to ware fairly well with frequent tire rotations.
I have skunk camber kit on my 99 Civic. I installed them reversed and gain more than 2 degrees of caster. Before it was 1 degree and now it's a bit over 3 degrees of caster.
CB
CB
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Mr Si_Vtec
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Oct 31, 2006 07:40 AM





