Removing charcoal canister/EVAP solinoid
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 0
Removing charcoal canister/EVAP solinoid
Does anyone have a write up on how to correctly remove the charcoal canister and vent the gas? car is a 00 civic if it matters...
What all do I or can I remove?
What all do I or can I remove?
Re: Removing charcoal canister/EVAP solinoid (.hue)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .hue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone have a write up on how to correctly remove the charcoal canister and vent the gas? car is a 00 civic if it matters...
What all do I or can I remove?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Out of curiosity, why would you want to remove your EVAP system? It doesn't hinder performance in any way. The Purge solenoid only opens the canister when your at idle...
What all do I or can I remove?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Out of curiosity, why would you want to remove your EVAP system? It doesn't hinder performance in any way. The Purge solenoid only opens the canister when your at idle...
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 0
Re: Removing charcoal canister/EVAP solinoid (94eg!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Out of curiosity, why would you want to remove your EVAP system? It doesn't hinder performance in any way. The Purge solenoid only opens the canister when your at idle...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just wanted to make my bay a little cleaner and my gsr swap came with a broken evap solenoid.
Out of curiosity, why would you want to remove your EVAP system? It doesn't hinder performance in any way. The Purge solenoid only opens the canister when your at idle...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just wanted to make my bay a little cleaner and my gsr swap came with a broken evap solenoid.
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 0
From: kazakhstan, DC, US and A
actually it does help performance, i know 1st hand. Sometimes the evap solenoid may jam up, making a small non noticeable vac leak.
I removed it, plugged the IM port with a screw, kept the solenoid plugged in, and routed the fuel line to the vent port. there is a wrightup.....however you have to reset your ECU every 3 days, but its worth it.
Ive tried it with and without the EVAP 5 times, I removed the **** outta my evap on that 5th time.
I removed it, plugged the IM port with a screw, kept the solenoid plugged in, and routed the fuel line to the vent port. there is a wrightup.....however you have to reset your ECU every 3 days, but its worth it.
Ive tried it with and without the EVAP 5 times, I removed the **** outta my evap on that 5th time.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,673
Likes: 2
Re: (YoungKadafi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YoungKadafi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually it does help performance, i know 1st hand. Sometimes the evap solenoid may jam up, making a small non noticeable vac leak.
I removed it, plugged the IM port with a screw, kept the solenoid plugged in, and routed the fuel line to the vent port. there is a wrightup.....however you have to reset your ECU every 3 days, but its worth it.
Ive tried it with and without the EVAP 5 times, I removed the **** outta my evap on that 5th time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that makes no sense and having to reset the ECU every 3 days is extremely retarded and in general just not good for the car, and there’s no performance gains what so ever
I removed it, plugged the IM port with a screw, kept the solenoid plugged in, and routed the fuel line to the vent port. there is a wrightup.....however you have to reset your ECU every 3 days, but its worth it.
Ive tried it with and without the EVAP 5 times, I removed the **** outta my evap on that 5th time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that makes no sense and having to reset the ECU every 3 days is extremely retarded and in general just not good for the car, and there’s no performance gains what so ever
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 0
Re: (sicones)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that makes no sense and having to reset the ECU every 3 days is extremely retarded and in general just not good for the car, and there’s no performance gains what so ever</TD></TR></TABLE>
what's the purpose for that top piece off the solinoid? Could I just glue it back on lol...? i have a blox IM so i guess im guna have to find some where to mount it then run new lines.
that makes no sense and having to reset the ECU every 3 days is extremely retarded and in general just not good for the car, and there’s no performance gains what so ever</TD></TR></TABLE>
what's the purpose for that top piece off the solinoid? Could I just glue it back on lol...? i have a blox IM so i guess im guna have to find some where to mount it then run new lines.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 0
Re: (sicones)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should get a OBD2 evap solenoid it has bigger fittings and the right connector, what year GSR is it, what ECU are you running</TD></TR></TABLE>
obd1 gsr with chipped obd1 ecu from pherable. if i can use a obd2 evap solenoid, i think its still on my dseries. im using the 99-00 si harness so maybe it'll work? I dunno what the plug looks like tho for the solenoid.
obd1 gsr with chipped obd1 ecu from pherable. if i can use a obd2 evap solenoid, i think its still on my dseries. im using the 99-00 si harness so maybe it'll work? I dunno what the plug looks like tho for the solenoid.
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 0
From: kazakhstan, DC, US and A
Re: (sicones)
Since your OBD1, get rid of the EVAP sytem, and dont look back, you wont throw a cel. its only for emissions, so unless your in cali, rip it out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that makes no sense and having to reset the ECU every 3 days is extremely retarded and in general just not good for the car, and there’s no performance gains what so ever</TD></TR></TABLE>
how is it bad for the car? it just resets the fuel trims, which it learns in 5 minutes. You have to reset it every 3 days usually because thats when it throws a code 92 for the evap solenoid.
And yes, i have proven that you get slight better throttle response by plugging up the port on the IM. try it yourself. I have 5 times and it fixed a problem ive been having for 2 years. I guess the evap solenoid was leaking, causing a vac leak.
Oh and your wrong about the solenoid only opening at startup. It registers at decelleration and idle. Otherwise it wouldnt throw a cel 1 hour into driving the car, it would throw it only at startup. and since its a solenoid, it only reads it when its grounded, and when its grounded, it opens up the solenoid.
Either way the EVAP system is a joke, its for emissions, and very slightly better mpg, but the ammount of vapors is not enough to make a difference. I prefer a clean IM myself, and some of those vapors have dirt carried along with them.
HOWEVER. this ONLY works on a 96 sedan d16y8. anything else isnt worth doing. however the 1996 d16y8 4dr model had the worst evap system ever, with only the EVAP solenoid being the only sensor in the purge system. All the other 96 coupes, 97+ had 4 mroe sensors with a different evap canister, which is more efficient and sealed i believe.
To trick the evap from pulling a CEL, you can rig up a vac hose to your intake arm, route it into the solenoid, then into the IM to prevent the CEL from popping on, since it will register some movement. Im working on getting a resistor to wire up to it.
To see how horrible the 96 sedan EVAP system is, install a clear fuel filter to the vac line, see how much dirt gets into that filter, since the 1996 4dr canister sucks up dirt into the canister. Very not good. try it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that makes no sense and having to reset the ECU every 3 days is extremely retarded and in general just not good for the car, and there’s no performance gains what so ever</TD></TR></TABLE>
how is it bad for the car? it just resets the fuel trims, which it learns in 5 minutes. You have to reset it every 3 days usually because thats when it throws a code 92 for the evap solenoid.
And yes, i have proven that you get slight better throttle response by plugging up the port on the IM. try it yourself. I have 5 times and it fixed a problem ive been having for 2 years. I guess the evap solenoid was leaking, causing a vac leak.
Oh and your wrong about the solenoid only opening at startup. It registers at decelleration and idle. Otherwise it wouldnt throw a cel 1 hour into driving the car, it would throw it only at startup. and since its a solenoid, it only reads it when its grounded, and when its grounded, it opens up the solenoid.
Either way the EVAP system is a joke, its for emissions, and very slightly better mpg, but the ammount of vapors is not enough to make a difference. I prefer a clean IM myself, and some of those vapors have dirt carried along with them.
HOWEVER. this ONLY works on a 96 sedan d16y8. anything else isnt worth doing. however the 1996 d16y8 4dr model had the worst evap system ever, with only the EVAP solenoid being the only sensor in the purge system. All the other 96 coupes, 97+ had 4 mroe sensors with a different evap canister, which is more efficient and sealed i believe.
To trick the evap from pulling a CEL, you can rig up a vac hose to your intake arm, route it into the solenoid, then into the IM to prevent the CEL from popping on, since it will register some movement. Im working on getting a resistor to wire up to it.
To see how horrible the 96 sedan EVAP system is, install a clear fuel filter to the vac line, see how much dirt gets into that filter, since the 1996 4dr canister sucks up dirt into the canister. Very not good. try it
Re: (YoungKadafi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YoungKadafi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">blah blah blah</TD></TR></TABLE>
So your saying that removing the EVAP system gives better performance because it fixed a vacuum leak you had on your car? WTF? I guess you must think every car has this vacuum leak then, but I assure you they don't. Also, the EVAP system has nothing to do with MPG. It's only job is to keep fuel vapors from going into the atmosphere. Nothing else.
And since the system only purges when the throttle is closed (manifold at high vacuum), how do you explain that you could possibly get ANY difference in performance? That port on the manifold is completely blocked off when your accelerating...
So your saying that removing the EVAP system gives better performance because it fixed a vacuum leak you had on your car? WTF? I guess you must think every car has this vacuum leak then, but I assure you they don't. Also, the EVAP system has nothing to do with MPG. It's only job is to keep fuel vapors from going into the atmosphere. Nothing else.
And since the system only purges when the throttle is closed (manifold at high vacuum), how do you explain that you could possibly get ANY difference in performance? That port on the manifold is completely blocked off when your accelerating...
Re: Removing charcoal canister/EVAP solinoid (.hue)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .hue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could I just leave it alone then how it is in the pictures? and just plug the vaccum ports on IM?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would do that for now. Perhaps keep an eye out for a used solenoid on eBay or something. They won't cost more than a couple bucks used. Hell, you could even call Import Auto Salvage and get one from them cheap...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would do that for now. Perhaps keep an eye out for a used solenoid on eBay or something. They won't cost more than a couple bucks used. Hell, you could even call Import Auto Salvage and get one from them cheap...
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 0
Re: Removing charcoal canister/EVAP solinoid (94eg!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would do that for now. Perhaps keep an eye out for a used solenoid on eBay or something. They won't cost more than a couple bucks used. Hell, you could even call Import Auto Salvage and get one from them cheap...</TD></TR></TABLE>
what should i do about the open port on the canister, it says "purge" on it?
I would do that for now. Perhaps keep an eye out for a used solenoid on eBay or something. They won't cost more than a couple bucks used. Hell, you could even call Import Auto Salvage and get one from them cheap...</TD></TR></TABLE>
what should i do about the open port on the canister, it says "purge" on it?
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 0
From: kazakhstan, DC, US and A
um not exactly, when you are accellerating, most of the time your not at WOT. not every car has this leak, but mine did, and why not remove the evap system?
your saying a vac leak doesnt hurt performance? that is false 100%. try unplugging a vac line and driving, point proven. Your still in vacuum untill the butterfly on the TB is open wide enough to deliver enough air the engine demands. When it is closed, it will pull from other sources, such as your PCV line, or which ever is the weakest link (vac leak/blown gasket)
MY POST DIDNT SAY EVERYBODY HAD THIS ISSUE!! mostly the 1996 4dr d16y8's because the evap solenoid wouldnt close all the way, and the evap canister had a huge vent just open to the air, which always sucked in dirt, UNLESS your at WOT.
and yes I will stand by my proven fact that sealing up a vac leak will give better throttle response, its common sense. And thats what I had. Plus ive heard from multiple sources that having less vac lines also gave off better response. Not sure how true this is, but I only assume its because it ensures no faulty hoses or weak links such as cruise control leaking.
Id rather have a more simple, and efficient, setup which is prone to less problems.
your saying a vac leak doesnt hurt performance? that is false 100%. try unplugging a vac line and driving, point proven. Your still in vacuum untill the butterfly on the TB is open wide enough to deliver enough air the engine demands. When it is closed, it will pull from other sources, such as your PCV line, or which ever is the weakest link (vac leak/blown gasket)
MY POST DIDNT SAY EVERYBODY HAD THIS ISSUE!! mostly the 1996 4dr d16y8's because the evap solenoid wouldnt close all the way, and the evap canister had a huge vent just open to the air, which always sucked in dirt, UNLESS your at WOT.
and yes I will stand by my proven fact that sealing up a vac leak will give better throttle response, its common sense. And thats what I had. Plus ive heard from multiple sources that having less vac lines also gave off better response. Not sure how true this is, but I only assume its because it ensures no faulty hoses or weak links such as cruise control leaking.
Id rather have a more simple, and efficient, setup which is prone to less problems.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 0
Re: (YoungKadafi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .hue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what should i do about the open port on the canister, it says "purge" on it? </TD></TR></TABLE>
what should i do about the open port on the canister, it says "purge" on it? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Re: (YoungKadafi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YoungKadafi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um not exactly, when you are accellerating, most of the time your not at WOT. not every car has this leak, but mine did, and why not remove the evap system?
your saying a vac leak doesnt hurt performance? that is false 100%. try unplugging a vac line and driving, point proven. Your still in vacuum untill the butterfly on the TB is open wide enough to deliver enough air the engine demands. When it is closed, it will pull from other sources, such as your PCV line, or which ever is the weakest link (vac leak/blown gasket)
MY POST DIDNT SAY EVERYBODY HAD THIS ISSUE!! mostly the 1996 4dr d16y8's because the evap solenoid wouldnt close all the way, and the evap canister had a huge vent just open to the air, which always sucked in dirt, UNLESS your at WOT.
and yes I will stand by my proven fact that sealing up a vac leak will give better throttle response, its common sense. And thats what I had. Plus ive heard from multiple sources that having less vac lines also gave off better response. Not sure how true this is, but I only assume its because it ensures no faulty hoses or weak links such as cruise control leaking.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just think it's odd that you think this mod will make peoples cars run better. The only reason your car ran better after the EVAP removal was because you had a vacuum leak. If you had just fixed the leak, it would be running fine also.
How often do you think the ECU purges the EVAP system anyways. Mabey only a couple times each time you drive. It does not purge when your accelerating at all (the ECU knows what to do). The canister stores plenty of vapors, allowing tons of time before they must be purged. The tube on the bottom of the canister lets fresh air into the canister through a carbon filter as vapors are purged. There is no dirt getting into your engine, there is no constant vacuum leak, and there is no reason to worry about it (I promise).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .hue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^wana make sure its safe/fine to run it like that for awhile</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just hook everything up like normal with all the vacuum lines going where they are supposed to go. Then replace the evap solenoid when you find one.
Or listen to the other guy, and remove your evap system exactly as he did. As long as your not getting nasty fuel smell, your doing fine...
your saying a vac leak doesnt hurt performance? that is false 100%. try unplugging a vac line and driving, point proven. Your still in vacuum untill the butterfly on the TB is open wide enough to deliver enough air the engine demands. When it is closed, it will pull from other sources, such as your PCV line, or which ever is the weakest link (vac leak/blown gasket)
MY POST DIDNT SAY EVERYBODY HAD THIS ISSUE!! mostly the 1996 4dr d16y8's because the evap solenoid wouldnt close all the way, and the evap canister had a huge vent just open to the air, which always sucked in dirt, UNLESS your at WOT.
and yes I will stand by my proven fact that sealing up a vac leak will give better throttle response, its common sense. And thats what I had. Plus ive heard from multiple sources that having less vac lines also gave off better response. Not sure how true this is, but I only assume its because it ensures no faulty hoses or weak links such as cruise control leaking.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just think it's odd that you think this mod will make peoples cars run better. The only reason your car ran better after the EVAP removal was because you had a vacuum leak. If you had just fixed the leak, it would be running fine also.
How often do you think the ECU purges the EVAP system anyways. Mabey only a couple times each time you drive. It does not purge when your accelerating at all (the ECU knows what to do). The canister stores plenty of vapors, allowing tons of time before they must be purged. The tube on the bottom of the canister lets fresh air into the canister through a carbon filter as vapors are purged. There is no dirt getting into your engine, there is no constant vacuum leak, and there is no reason to worry about it (I promise).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .hue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^wana make sure its safe/fine to run it like that for awhile</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just hook everything up like normal with all the vacuum lines going where they are supposed to go. Then replace the evap solenoid when you find one.
Or listen to the other guy, and remove your evap system exactly as he did. As long as your not getting nasty fuel smell, your doing fine...
thread jack....i just took out the huge canister, what do i do about the line on the left and the little canister that it goes into? it's kinda right under the battery.
Modified by DFW at 1:17 PM 3/13/2007
Modified by DFW at 1:17 PM 3/13/2007
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 0
From: kazakhstan, DC, US and A
the line from the hard fuel line, you might need to extend that and route that into the larger rubber tube below the battery. The plug the IM port. Just dont plug the line that runs into your fuel tank.
I have no fuel smell what so ever.
And 1 of the reasons i removed it was.......DIRT INSIDE THE EVAP CANISTER!
94eg, i dunno if you have seen the evap canisters on the 96 d16y8's theyre plastic, and theyre not filtered. I took mine out, blew on the bottom of the vent, and sure enough, dirt can flying out of both top ports. Lots of dirt. However im sure most other evap systems are much more friendly, this is the only reason i removed mine.
I have no fuel smell what so ever.
And 1 of the reasons i removed it was.......DIRT INSIDE THE EVAP CANISTER!
94eg, i dunno if you have seen the evap canisters on the 96 d16y8's theyre plastic, and theyre not filtered. I took mine out, blew on the bottom of the vent, and sure enough, dirt can flying out of both top ports. Lots of dirt. However im sure most other evap systems are much more friendly, this is the only reason i removed mine.
Re: (YoungKadafi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YoungKadafi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the line from the hard fuel line, you might need to extend that and route that into the larger rubber tube below the battery. The plug the IM port. Just dont plug the line that runs into your fuel tank.
I have no fuel smell what so ever.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
So could I do this (taken from hondazvic thread) for the hose on the firewall?
How am i going to extend the hard line? or do you mean the hoses?
I have no fuel smell what so ever.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
So could I do this (taken from hondazvic thread) for the hose on the firewall?
How am i going to extend the hard line? or do you mean the hoses?
Re: (DFW)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DFW »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So could I do this (taken from hondazvic thread) for the hose on the firewall?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That line goes directly to your fuel tank. I don't think you should leave it open even with a filter cover on it. Since it faces up, water can easily run down the pipe.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YoungKadafi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have no fuel smell what so ever.
And 1 of the reasons i removed it was.......DIRT INSIDE THE EVAP CANISTER!
94eg, i dunno if you have seen the evap canisters on the 96 d16y8's theyre plastic, and theyre not filtered. I took mine out, blew on the bottom of the vent, and sure enough, dirt can flying out of both top ports. Lots of dirt. However im sure most other evap systems are much more friendly, this is the only reason i removed mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No I have not seen those canisters. That is disconcerting though...
So could I do this (taken from hondazvic thread) for the hose on the firewall?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That line goes directly to your fuel tank. I don't think you should leave it open even with a filter cover on it. Since it faces up, water can easily run down the pipe.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YoungKadafi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have no fuel smell what so ever.
And 1 of the reasons i removed it was.......DIRT INSIDE THE EVAP CANISTER!
94eg, i dunno if you have seen the evap canisters on the 96 d16y8's theyre plastic, and theyre not filtered. I took mine out, blew on the bottom of the vent, and sure enough, dirt can flying out of both top ports. Lots of dirt. However im sure most other evap systems are much more friendly, this is the only reason i removed mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No I have not seen those canisters. That is disconcerting though...
Re: (94eg!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That line goes directly to your fuel tank. I don't think you should leave it open even with a filter cover on it. Since it faces up, water can easily run down the pipe.
No I have not seen those canisters. That is disconcerting though...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I searched and read people routing it some where else, unless they're talking about another line
That line goes directly to your fuel tank. I don't think you should leave it open even with a filter cover on it. Since it faces up, water can easily run down the pipe.
No I have not seen those canisters. That is disconcerting though...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I searched and read people routing it some where else, unless they're talking about another line
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 0
From: kazakhstan, DC, US and A
the hose. I took the hard line on the firewall, near the fuel lines/fuel filter, put an extra long vac hose and routed that into that larger hose which is the drain hose for the EVAP canister.
I would NOT just leave the hard line as it is, since your cat/header is right below that, and it will drip fuel. you NEED to route it.
OR you could run that hard line, into the EVAP purge solenoid, then into the IM totally by passing the canister. I would run the hard line to a 3 way T, and have one end going to the EVAP solenoid, and the T going to a check valve, and then to a filter. This way the EVAP system can still vent, but you still will pull vapors in, without the huge canister.
Have the checkvalve only allow things to "vent" because if it was reversed, then you would have a vac leak. This may be the best setup i think, because its clean, efficient and you still grab vapors, all while letting the gas tank vent while in throttle.
I would NOT just leave the hard line as it is, since your cat/header is right below that, and it will drip fuel. you NEED to route it.
OR you could run that hard line, into the EVAP purge solenoid, then into the IM totally by passing the canister. I would run the hard line to a 3 way T, and have one end going to the EVAP solenoid, and the T going to a check valve, and then to a filter. This way the EVAP system can still vent, but you still will pull vapors in, without the huge canister.
Have the checkvalve only allow things to "vent" because if it was reversed, then you would have a vac leak. This may be the best setup i think, because its clean, efficient and you still grab vapors, all while letting the gas tank vent while in throttle.