2000 Prelude Base

Ok, I have had these freaking missfire codes for the past two months, definitly getting worse, now car will stall sometimes when clutch is pressed in after driving for a while, idle can be very poor at times and feels like a slight skip but will run fine off idle. Tune up done(plugs, wires, cap & rotor), cleaned egr, and seafoamed ports. I am working on it today and happen to check the header with a pyrometer, cyl 1&2 @ 285deg while cyl 3&4 are at 525deg. CEL says that I have missfires on all four cyls, random missfires and code P1399?? This is driving me crazy. I have searched and googled and alot of people have the missfire code problem with other hondas and acuras but no one has any answers! Please help, Wes


Modified by 00BaseRacer at 5:10 PM 3/10/2007


Modified by 00BaseRacer at 7:24 PM 3/12/2007

 

your misfires would explain the temperature difference. Fix the misfires and your temperatures will fix themselves...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndrePerras &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your misfires would explain the temperature difference. Fix the misfires and your temperatures will fix themselves...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I realise that. I just was not sure until today that I was actually having missfires because I could only feel the idle as being a little off. The big question is: Is it ignition missfires causing the temp varience or maybe valve problems? I am planning on checking the valve clearence tomorrow to see if that is the problem.

I purchased this car in June of last year, the weekend I bought it I went to Virginia. On the way there I stopped off the Interstate and the car idled funny. CEL came on and when I checked it, said low signal from EGR. Spent a couple of months and three EGR gaskets to clean the valve and seafoam the manifold. Ran fine for a while. About five months ago, I yanked the eng/trans, replaced the clutch & flywheel, pulled the timing covers and installed new timing belt and did the tensioner retrofit. Then about two months ago it popped the first Missfire code. Been getting worse since that. Any more ideas?? Wes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00BaseRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then about two months ago it popped the first Missfire code. Been getting worse since that. Any more ideas?? Wes</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bad gas caused dirty injectors?

Maybe your dizzy is falling apart, might have a weak/intermittent spark.

Probably one or the other. Good luck

 

blown head gasket

 

Bump

 

Results of compression test done today:

#1 cyl 170psi
#2 cyl 210psi
#3 cyl 140psi
#4 cyl 100psi

Rings are shot, added oil to #4 and rechecked, 200psi, then 170psi and then 150psi. Rebuild or swap in the near future. By the way, what are the stock ratings for compression?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00BaseRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Results of compression test done today:

#1 cyl 170psi
#2 cyl 210psi
#3 cyl 140psi
#4 cyl 100psi

Rings are shot, added oil to #4 and rechecked, 200psi, then 170psi and then 150psi. Rebuild or swap in the near future. By the way, what are the stock ratings for compression?</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what would happen after driving around for months with random misfires . did you ever try changing your plugs, wires, etc..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats what would happen after driving around for months with random misfires . did you ever try changing your plugs, wires, etc..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh....What are those??

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00BaseRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tune up done(plugs, wires, cap & rotor), cleaned egr, and seafoamed ports.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think the missfires where actually caused by the valves not being adjusted, probably since new. I did adjust the #4 valves after doing the compression check just to make sure that was not the problem and now the engine runs better. To bad I did not know about this months ago. Wes

 

are you OBD2? did you check the ICM in the distributor?

 

You could try moving the injectors around. If the hot cylinders follow the moved injectors then those injectors are probably not flowing as much and the cylinder is running lean and hot. The compression numbers don't sound good though. Might be an opportunity to tear it down and build something faster!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you OBD2? did you check the ICM in the distributor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Originally OBDII, I did not have another dist to swap and check if that made a difference. Engine running, removing spark plug wires from cap one at a time, spark is strong on all cyls and when removed each cylinder would die out and engine would stop. Each cylinder wire had the same sound when removed and showed the same color spark, so I don't think some cylinders were getting better ignition than the others.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could try moving the injectors around. If the hot cylinders follow the moved injectors then those injectors are probably not flowing as much and the cylinder is running lean and hot. The compression numbers don't sound good though. Might be an opportunity to tear it down and build something faster!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had not thought about moving the injectors around. I am going to teardown and do a complete rebuild but I am worried that if I do not find the problem in the teardown that the rebuilt engine will act the same way, unless it was a problem with the valve adjustment.

 

Just to make sure I didn't screw up the valve adjustment, I had a Honda dealer do it. Dropped $140 and didn't fix anything related to the missfires or compression. Figures Next will be swapping the injectors around and checking temps to see if they move. Right now, only way to get engine to idle is to create a vaccum leak. Idles at a nice smooth 900rpms!?!? Later, Wes