I recently called SportMax about this model of wheel, and they mentioned that a custoemr had attempted to run the larger lip rim in the rear, but they were pushed out too far. Would rolling the lip be enough to accomodate this, or would bodywork be required?

http://www.sportmaxwheel.com/sportmax_962.shtml

 

can you get offset information?

 

I was told 35mm IIRC.

also...is there any difference between the ap1 and ap2 as far as the ability to fit large wheels?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KingVR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told 35mm IIRC.

also...is there any difference between the ap1 and ap2 as far as the ability to fit large wheels?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the body is the same and wheel fitment will be the same as well. A 35mm offset is too aggressive IMO to fit properly.

 

if your stock height you might get away with it, and add some camber but its not going to be easy.,


just buy something that fits and save yourself the trouble.

 

It seems that the non-deep-dish rims can fit no problem from what they told me, but the whole idea/style is kinda lost when there's no width/dish difference from front/back.

 

17x9 +35 w/ a 235 stretched, rolled fenders, re-locate rear bumper tab about 2.5 inches and - 4 camber. You'll be straight.


Im serious though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBSeRiouSo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">17x9 +35 w/ a 235 stretched, rolled fenders, re-locate rear bumper tab about 2.5 inches and - 4 camber. You'll be straight.


Im serious though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Another idea that I just thought of...since I know plenty of machinist being that I work for Ferrea Racing Components (valvetrain parts, etc...), I could possibly have the offset milled to a higher number...of course this would depend upon the amount of material I could safely remove without weakening the structure of the wheel too much. LOL That should help, no?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KingVR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Another idea that I just thought of...since I know plenty of machinist being that I work for Ferrea Racing Components (valvetrain parts, etc...), I could possibly have the offset milled to a higher number...of course this would depend upon the amount of material I could safely remove without weakening the structure of the wheel too much. LOL That should help, no?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have heard of people doing that, primarily in the mb/bmw scene that need 5mm shaved off for really big wheels. Personally, I'd leave it up the judgement of the machinist, a very good one, to determine if it'll be safe or not.

 

No you cant roll the lip i tried it, just gonan have to bite the bullet and either return or try to sell them, i ran into this exact problem and ended up cutting 3 inches out of my wheel well and widebodying the rear, now they fit perfect
cause i got the widest you can go in the rear

 

Not bad....do you have other shots of your car with that setup?

I suppose the only other alternative would be to run the front wheels in the back as well, but what fun would that be?

 

here are some other shots for you

 

Nice look...btw, in your sig: "....on fully built motor done by justice machine shop. "

I work for Ferrea Racing Components and found and invoice for Justice Racing Engines with S2000 parts on it dated 3/24/2005. Might this be the parts in your head?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Widebodys2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No you cant roll the lip i tried it</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean? The rear inner fender lip you can roll with ease. Just a fender roller and a heat gun and your straight. I did mine so i can fit my NSX spec wheels under there

Damn I want my rears. Err.

 

yes you can roll it but on those rims they will still rub

 

LOL yep that would be mine actually would be march of 2006, my motor isnt but a few months old, it has maybee 2000 miles on it so far

 

Just curious....how common is it for s2k owners to build up the head on these cars? It looks like many more go FI than build an all-motor machine to the hilt...am I correct?

 

believe it or not the head is pretty damn good i got stock head with 05 retainers, and im maken my 510 off of that i would worrie about the bottom end first

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Widebodys2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">believe it or not the head is pretty damn good i got stock head with 05 retainers, and im maken my 510 off of that i would worrie about the bottom end first</TD></TR></TABLE>

05' retainers?? With what springs? ok...I'm gunna jack my own thread, or perhaps I should start a new one.

How I understand it, the ap1 engines have the higher powerband, and 9k RPM limiter...for the reason that people were having issues with the valvetrain flying apart, Honda increased the stroke which brings the powerband down and makes the same hp number and have a lower engine speed so people couldn't spin the so high and incure a failure. OR was it more of a "this engine doesn't have any torque down low" as the reason for bumping up the stroke?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Widebodys2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes you can roll it but on those rims they will still rub</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh I believe it, but if you know some that is very handy with a fender roller, you can do a serious "pull" on our rear fender, without running a wider rear panel, but it takes alot of skill to do so.

One day, I will do this. (Not how the car is, but the pull, hahaha)



Sunk Face CE's. Yum

 

hmmmm chrome..