Tein RA car handling bad after...
guys ever since an accidnet my cars handling has changed. the car is bumpier, bounces a bit more and when i take turns it jsut boucnes a lot more. I took it to spugen, they said the car is perfect, nothing seems wrong. took it for a spin said it was ok but the stiffness was too stiff (interseting bc it was nevre an issue before) so he lowered it to 10 F adn 11 R adn its bouncier on turns and seems as if the car just wants to give out asap when its a hard quick turn. Before i woudl feel the car stuck to the ground and once it wanted to, I was able to feel it, now it just slidess and the *** keeps wanting to slide.
I have Tein RA's and for some reason the RIGht REAR is about 1/4" higher then the rest. so i got to adjust that. anyone know why my car is acting this way?
I have Tein RA's and for some reason the RIGht REAR is about 1/4" higher then the rest. so i got to adjust that. anyone know why my car is acting this way?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverDc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">describe your accident, where was the damage front rear side?
maybe the piston on the shock is tweaked from the accident (shrugs)</TD></TR></TABLE>
i got it from the rear by a F150 and i went into the car infront of me. but the main damage was from the back. it iddnt reach the suspension oranything hto.
maybe the piston on the shock is tweaked from the accident (shrugs)</TD></TR></TABLE>
i got it from the rear by a F150 and i went into the car infront of me. but the main damage was from the back. it iddnt reach the suspension oranything hto.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Francesco »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Were the RA's installed before of after the accident?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ROFL ... read the title!!!
"Tein RA car handling bad after" - the accident ...
so it was intalled before the accident
ROFL ... read the title!!!
"Tein RA car handling bad after" - the accident ...
so it was intalled before the accident
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Jerk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ROFL ... read the title!!!
"Tein RA car handling bad after" - the accident ...
so it was intalled before the accident
</TD></TR></TABLE>
affirmative loll
"Tein RA car handling bad after" - the accident ...
so it was intalled before the accident
</TD></TR></TABLE>affirmative loll
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Jerk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ROFL ... read the title!!!
"Tein RA car handling bad after" - the accident ...
so it was intalled before the accident
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Could have meant that after the accident, and after the RA install it road bad, but what ever, i gotta read
Anyway, I would jack the car up and take some measurements and check everything out. Just because the accident didnt reach the suspension doesn't mean shock wouldnt affect them.
ROFL ... read the title!!!
"Tein RA car handling bad after" - the accident ...
so it was intalled before the accident
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Could have meant that after the accident, and after the RA install it road bad, but what ever, i gotta read
Anyway, I would jack the car up and take some measurements and check everything out. Just because the accident didnt reach the suspension doesn't mean shock wouldnt affect them.
The spring rates are only 10/10, but it sounds like its overpowering your shocks. If it's double adjustable(?), decrease compression and increase rebound dampening a click at a time til the bounce goes away. If it's single adjustable, FULL STIFFNESS!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Projekt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The spring rates are only 10/10, but it sounds like its overpowering your shocks. If it's double adjustable(?), decrease compression and increase rebound dampening a click at a time til the bounce goes away. If it's single adjustable, FULL STIFFNESS!</TD></TR></TABLE>
whoa bro definitely not speaking my language loll. i ahve the RA's and the front is i think 21 way adjustable and the rear is 23.
its at 10 f and 11 rear right now.
not sure if i mentioned this francesco but i took the car to spugen and the guy checked undernearth the car and he even drove it and said it was in good condition. nothing looked wrong.
one thing tho, when he woudl hit the tire while it was off the ground, the right Rear one, there was a noise coming somewhere along that side of the car and if i recall he coudlnt figure out what it was other hten i think maybe the spare wheel wasn't tight but rather a bit loose.
whoa bro definitely not speaking my language loll. i ahve the RA's and the front is i think 21 way adjustable and the rear is 23.
its at 10 f and 11 rear right now.
not sure if i mentioned this francesco but i took the car to spugen and the guy checked undernearth the car and he even drove it and said it was in good condition. nothing looked wrong.
one thing tho, when he woudl hit the tire while it was off the ground, the right Rear one, there was a noise coming somewhere along that side of the car and if i recall he coudlnt figure out what it was other hten i think maybe the spare wheel wasn't tight but rather a bit loose.
You're going to have to give us more info:
1) Where were you hit?
2) Year of your car
3) Wheel type
Those 21 steps are dampening adjustment. They are single adjustable, meaning turning that **** controls dampening on both the compression and rebound(up and down motion) of the shock. Double adjustable means that they are separate, and would have 2 ***** on each shock.
I noticed you have your shocks stiffer in the rear, which would make an FR car less forgiving. Try 16 clicks in the front and 12 in the rear.
1) Where were you hit?
2) Year of your car
3) Wheel type
Those 21 steps are dampening adjustment. They are single adjustable, meaning turning that **** controls dampening on both the compression and rebound(up and down motion) of the shock. Double adjustable means that they are separate, and would have 2 ***** on each shock.
I noticed you have your shocks stiffer in the rear, which would make an FR car less forgiving. Try 16 clicks in the front and 12 in the rear.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DirtyxSanchez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why did you even get Tein RAs when you know nothing about suspension?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
rofl, maybe he heard all my Tein Flex bashing.
RA's are pretty good for the money, and the adjusting isnt too complex.
</TD></TR></TABLE>rofl, maybe he heard all my Tein Flex bashing.
RA's are pretty good for the money, and the adjusting isnt too complex.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverDc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you get an alignment after the accident, maybe you have a bent arm? </TD></TR></TABLE>
now remember, spugen looked under the car and everything was fine
now remember, spugen looked under the car and everything was fine
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Francesco »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
now remember, spugen looked under the car and everything was fine
</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol , if alignment is good and the shock is not bent, and if it comes down to it, it might be your frame, i would go to a body shop were they x-ray your frame with a computer, i dont know the proper name for but its a x-ray of your fame, it might be something simple. a knuckle or tweaked bearing :BEAR:
now remember, spugen looked under the car and everything was fine
</TD></TR></TABLE>lol , if alignment is good and the shock is not bent, and if it comes down to it, it might be your frame, i would go to a body shop were they x-ray your frame with a computer, i dont know the proper name for but its a x-ray of your fame, it might be something simple. a knuckle or tweaked bearing :BEAR:
if you make your front stiffer your car will be less prone to oversteer/more prone to understeer. having a stiffer rear is what is making your car bounce around. follow the advice a couple posts above and try 16/12.. or 12/10 or 14/10 etc.. play with it and get a feel for what you like, they are adjustable afterall.
the ohter thing i notcied is the second after i drove the car when he changed the setting to 10 and 11 the steering wheel feels softer and not as stiff as before. i called and asked if tha thsould happen he said no. i have a hard time believing that b/c i know my car inch by inch when i drive it and that was the first thing i notcied when i came out the lot.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SwpR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the ohter thing i notcied is the second after i drove the car when he changed the setting to 10 and 11 the steering wheel feels softer and not as stiff as before. i called and asked if tha thsould happen he said no. i have a hard time believing that b/c i know my car inch by inch when i drive it and that was the first thing i notcied when i came out the lot. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Your car is probably really messed up. You should get another s2000.
Your car is probably really messed up. You should get another s2000.
Ok guys I called tein n they said myshocks might be blown. Cuz once in a whule I hear a CLANK noise. So ima send it in n they said they'll do an overhaul or something whihc is 75 to 90 bucks if not buy new ones for 200 I thuink he said.
The other problem is since we changed the stiffness settin to 10 n 11 the steering response has totally changed. Just doesn't respond how it qwas before. Its as if there more play room with the steering before it reacts kinda like a bmw 3 series.
The other problem is since we changed the stiffness settin to 10 n 11 the steering response has totally changed. Just doesn't respond how it qwas before. Its as if there more play room with the steering before it reacts kinda like a bmw 3 series.
Guys in order for me to take them out n put the okld ones back on what will ii need to use tool wise? Is there nethin I need or just a basic tool? Anyone have a write up on doin this or if its a simple procedure or somethin a shop has 2 do?



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