So I got a SiR-G motor in a 92 Civic DX, and there isnt any top end. Low end seems pretty decent though. I just fixed a few errors, and this is where I am at, because this thing wasnt running at all a little while ago. I was thinking the fuel line since I am using the stock line from the civic. I dont have a tach, but to give everyone an idea, my car tops out at 60 in 3rd gear. It should be something like 80 I think. Its not a sudden stop at 60, but a gradual increase to sixty. I flashed code 21 once, but havent seen it again. I have an OBD2 motor, so there isnt a VTEC pressure switch. That wire is jumped to the VTEC solenoid. I checked the VTEC solenoid, and it clicks when a 12V power is hooked to it. Nothing is clogged in there. Oil level is good too. Anyone with some ideas? No CEL light on either. BLAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

 

which ECU are you running?

 

chipped P28 from Phearable

 

do you have the IAB butterflies wired correctly?

 

OBD2 engines do have the VTEC oil pressure switch... JDM engines do not.

IAB off a P28... did phearable.net add IAB control?

 

Not too sure if he did, but I would think so. He seems to know what he is doing, and I told him what I had. The butterflies are wired correctly cause I checked all the wiring numberous times trying to find the last problem.

I dont know if this is normal, but I was just sitting in my car and thought I would jump the SRS connector even though the CEL wasnt on, and it actually threw a code 20. I was just doing some research on this, and its saying something about checking a fuse box or changing the Alt. But this is all due to peoples car not starting. Mine starts fine. So I dont know, maybe this is nothing to worry about. Maybe it is... All I know is this is driving me nuts!

Just a note to the code 20... This is the first time its thrown this code. I have checked the codes about 5 times each time I go out to mess with the car.


Modified by roadracer321 at 1:53 PM 10/12/2006

 

No more code 20... still have a lack of power though

 

did you wire the KNOCK SENSOR???????

 

Knock was disabled during programming.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22EHSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you wire the KNOCK SENSOR???????</TD></TR></TABLE>
P28s do not have knock sensor ability unless it's added.

exhaust problems, clogged cat maybe....
air filter clogged
fuel filter clogged

 

i knoe ididnt see he had a p28.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
P28s do not have knock sensor ability unless it's added.

exhaust problems, clogged cat maybe....
air filter clogged
fuel filter clogged
</TD></TR></TABLE>

New Cat, Exhaust, and Air filter... I will check the fuel filter. So I suppose the stock fuel line from the Civic supplies a sufficent amount of fuel to my motor?

 

Now there is a new fuel filter...and still no top end... I'm madder than a dog shittin tacks!!!!!

 

simple question.... does your CEL turn on when you first turn on the ignition. (bulb check) on with the fuel pump priming.
sorry for the silly question but I've seen it several times where the CEL is burnt out or removed and the individual thinks that no light means no CEL.

are you sure the IABs and VTEC solinoid are turning on? Hook a very small bulb to each line and drive the car.

Maybe your fuel pump isn't keeping up?

Other than that try another ECU. Ask around in your area to see if someone has a GSR that you can try your ECU in, or try their ECU in your car.
As long as they are OBD1 or an OBD2 car running OBD1 for tuning/chipping reasons.

 

The CEL does work. It threw a TPS code and CKS code, but I fixed them. It also does turn on when the car is started. I tried jumping the SRS even though it wasnt throwing codes, and it was solid on... so there isnt any codes.

I'm not sure if the IAB or VTEC are turning on. I suppose I can do the bulb trick. Even if my VTEC isnt kicking in, wouldnt it still rev up to high RPM? My car doesnt rev all the way up.

It would make sense that the fuel isnt keeping up. Is there a way to find out without having to buy a new pump?

The ECU is good, I sent it back to Phearable, and he popped it in a Type R and said it worked fine.


In any event, if none of the things were working correctly (VTEC, IAB, Fuel), wouldnt it throw a code 21 or 45?


Modified by roadracer321 at 4:26 PM 10/14/2006

 

the ECU has no idea if the VTEC solinoid or the IAB actually turn on or not. Only if there is resistance on the VTEC line. (IAB it has no clue)

 

So what about the fuel pump? Is there a way to check this? Do they make a fuel pressure gauge that fits on the pillar?

 

yes they do, but you'd never catch me with one. No way would I want high pressure fuel in the passenger compartment. Even for only a little while.
for the price of a good fuel pump ($100) IMO it's worth it just to swap in a new one. Even if it doesn't fix it you know it's not that.

personally I'd strap in one of those A/F gauges. Yes it's crappy but it will tell you if the engine is running lean when it starves out. Under WOT the gauge should show rich all the time, if it spikes down or drops lean you have a fuel problem.
A fuel problem like that could be the ECU, the fuel pump or a few other things though. But with this info at least you can track something down.

BTW you can use a volt meter if you don't want to buy one of those gauges. For the sake of this test... 0.7V and above =rich, 0.3V and lower =lean

 

Can you elaborate on the multimeter some more? What wires do I connect this to? I am completely clueless about doing this, but sounds like the best way. Is this suppose to be done off the O2? If so, which colors? I have 4 wires...

 

best place to go is right at the ECU.
http://www.b18c5eg.com/obd1.jpg
white wire at C14. that's the Primary O2 signal wire. Ground the black lead of the meter (A23/A24 if you'd like)

 

Well here is some updated news. I let the car warm up to its temp before I started this. I put the meter on the O2 and got a reading once at about .4... It was kind of hard to keep it on there, so my girl is going to go for a ride with me to hold it on there for me as I drive. I did however rev it out real slow in first gear and got it to hit the rev limiter with a clean incline. I heard the VTEC kick in as well. But when I punch it, it starts to spudder out... So I will post again when I get this done.


It is going to be a lot of convincing her, because she doesnt like to go fast =o)

 

Ok, 2nd gear while it was sputtering, it was at .3 steady. 2nd run hit .46 and wasnt sputtering too bad, but then it cut out (as if it was a fuel cut off) and the RPMs dropped, and then it kicked in again once it got to a lower RPM.

Is this info useful?


Modified by roadracer321 at 10:20 AM 10/17/2006

 

according to that you're indicating fairly lean. WOT should be full rich to a narrow band O2.

&lt;.46 = &lt;14.7

you may have a flakey O2 sensor. Even though at WOT the ECU should run open loop, a faulty O2 may set enough long term fuel trims to mess things up.

Were you able to get the O2 to put out more voltage? it should run up to 1V or at least close.

 

Never saw anything close to 1V. I was happy to see .46V


Would it make a difference if the O2 was right after the cat instead of before? The O2 is actually on the cat, and not the header. Its right after the bubble on the cat.

 

I just took another rip down the road just to make sure. The voltage actually went into the negatives at high RPM. It started out at about .3 - .4 at idle, then as soon as I pressed on the accelerator the voltage started dropping and dropping and eventually ended up in negative numbers.

In case it matters, I am using a Fluke 78 to test this.