I want to order a accusump for my car......I have a greddy oil cooler kit and was wondering if i can just tee into one of the lines like it shows on there website.

I guess I am just not understanding how it will know which direction to send the oil? (or if it even matters)

 

I have a greddy kit too. it's tapped in the return side of the oil cooler at the sandwich plate-so the pressurized oil goes back to the block and not back to the cooler.

 

You buy a one-way check valve from Canton and put that inline before the T that goes to the AccuSump. That way oil, when flowing out of the AccuSump, will only go back to the return line to the motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by david@didrace.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You buy a one-way check valve from Canton and put that inline before the T that goes to the AccuSump. That way oil, when flowing out of the AccuSump, will only go back to the return line to the motor.</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecjj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a greddy kit too. it's tapped in the return side of the oil cooler at the sandwich plate-so the pressurized oil goes back to the block and not back to the cooler.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks to both of you guys So I'm guessing the 2 quart one would be fine for my application?

Ok So I need a one way check valve

2 qt accusump


couple of mounting clamps


Valve to operate it


might as well throw in a gauge to go with it


And a tee fitting and some braided line to tie it all together



then just tee it into the return line of the oil cooler kit with the check valve before the tee?

Sound about right?

 

http://www.accusump.com/accusu...s.pdf
opened my eyes on there website and found the instructions and this diagram




So I think everything I listed above is all I'm gonna need Now just need to order the right parts that match up with the greddy kit.

Modified by ekim952522000 at 7:56 PM 10/5/2006


Modified by ekim952522000 at 10:38 PM 10/5/2006

 

could someone elaborate on what benefits an accusump would have over using a baffled oil pan or would you use them in conjunction with each other for added protection?

 

I will be using both for extra protection

A baffled oil pan helps the oil not get away from the pickup, But if it does and your car starts to lose oil pressure the accusump will release it's charge and keep oil pressure up until the oil returns to the pickup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekim952522000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will be using both for extra protection.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Condoms AND foam?

But seriously, steel braided lines are overkill unless there is an abrasion issue. The regular slip-fit stuff from Earl's, Russel, XRP, etc is more than adequate for oil the pressures and temp we see and is a lot cheaper and easier to use.

Unless you just want some bling...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But seriously, steel braided lines are overkill unless there is an abrasion issue. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you'll need steel braided lines if you mount it inside the car though

-nigel.

 

while we are on the subject how big of an accusump system does one need to keep VTEC from dropping out on a H22. If anyone knows

There are a few sections of track, one at Beaverun and one at Mid-Ohio were I lose VTEC for a second or 2. If I overfill the oil by 2qts and short shift those sections I can keep oil pressure but I would much rather be in a lower gear. Oddly I have no oil pressure problems at Summit point.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nscirocco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you'll need steel braided lines if you mount it inside the car though...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good point. That or a hard line. Most sanctioning bodies will also allow a metal "shield" such as a length of steel tubing used as conduit for a non braided line to pass thru.

NASA CCR
11.4.18 Hoses Inside Cockpit
All hoses carrying any liquids or any gases that go through the cockpit should be metal
or steel braided. Any hoses that carry cold water, such as washer fluid, cool suit, etc.
are exempt from this rule. Rubberized or rubber-coated steel braided hoses are
acceptable.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Condoms AND foam?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL Yeah I read the rule and plan on mounting the accusump inside the cockpit so I knew I would need braided line.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekim952522000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL Yeah I read the rule and plan on mounting the accusump inside the cockpit so I knew I would need braided line. </TD></TR></TABLE>

here's how mine's mounted, you might want to consider an electic valve



-nigel.

 

Just a suggestion...
I agree, fit an accusump. We have them on all of our cars, Great for cold starts and definitely a great safety feature for a race engine.

However our data has shown in some cases, such as a long high speed corner where oil surge causes the accusump to replenish the lost oil pressure... as it should... However when you come onto the straight, the Engine oil pump is then working to capacity re filling the accusump, and not feeding the bearings!
A well baffled oil pan with increased capacity, is probably more important than just fitting an accusump. We are running external oil pumps now on our K-20 & K-24 Powered cars,(Honda Cup). I do realize that this is not always possible within the rules of some series.
So always keep one eye on the oil pressure gauge. It's not always in the turns that the damage is being done.

For what it's worth...

Kiwi

 

If you read their site you'll see they recommend a manual valve for racing. They say (or infer) the electric valve restricts flow too much. They then add if you spend more money for a special pressure-sensitive valve you can have the best of both worlds...

I couldn't see how it could work since their nifty pressure valve still fills the reservour through the same electric valve they said was restrictive...

Calling and asking their technical guy what was going on, he replied, "I don't know how it works, it just does." Ummm...

In spite of them being boneheads I still think an Accusump is good to have.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">However our data has shown in some cases, such as a long high speed corner where oil surge causes the accusump to replenish the lost oil pressure... as it should... However when you come onto the straight, the Engine oil pump is then working to capacity re filling the accusump, and not feeding the bearings! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would think the accusump would have a set of valves that lets oil flow resistance free out of the pump, but resist the flow on the way back in. This would not let the egine oil pressure drop too much during filling. If they don't already do this, you could add this type of valving yourself to the system so it takes longer to fill the accusump as you go down the strait. ...but filling up too slow would also be bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 577HondaPrelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would think the accusump would have a set of valves that lets oil flow resistance free out of the pump, but resist the flow on the way back in. This would not let the egine oil pressure drop too much during filling. If they don't already do this, you could add this type of valving yourself to the system so it takes longer to fill the accusump as you go down the strait. ...but filling up too slow would also be bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct, The manufacturers are not much help with tecnical details

Unfortunately the accusumps do not come with such valving and if they did, I'm sure there would be even more problems created as you say.

However the reality is... if your engine starves for oil, long enough that the accusump is completely emptied (Accusumps give about 5-10 seconds of extra oil pressure)... Your motor is Toast! Accusump or no accusump!


Kiwi


Modified by KIWI at 11:22 AM 10/7/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KIWI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a suggestion...
............However when you come onto the straight, the Engine oil pump is then working to capacity re filling the accusump, and not feeding the bearings!......................
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Great now I'm scared the accusump is going to cause my engine to blow on the straight away.

 

Don't get me wrong...
Put it on- Installing an Accusump is a good idea, and will certainly help with small fluctuations in oil pressure. And it will ultimately save your engine from small fluctuations over time.
I guess what I was trying to say is...
If your Oil pan, or the track you run on causes extreme Oil surge, You need to look at more than just fitting an Accusump.
As I said before, In extreme conditions (There are varying definitions of Extreme) An accusump is good for about 3 seconds of starvation.
Depending on your Car, Your Competition Class, your budget/ Rev Limit, and your driving style, You may never reach those extreme conditions...
So fitting it is a good thing!

Good luck

Kiwi

 

basically use the accusump in conjunction with a baffled oil pan, not just an accusump by itself . do you recommend a manual or electric valve kiwi?

 

Accusump reccomends a manual valve

Thanks kiwi I will be running a baffled oil pan and accusump.

 

We have the Canton AccuSump E.P.C. valve on quite a few track-only cars with no issues. It's nice because you just wire it up to ignition on 12V so the second you turn the key on you preoil the engine, fire up the car and then the Accusump is always working until key off.

 

We use the manual valve on all of our cars ... As I said before, apart from the accusumps primary purpose, we use it mainly because it enables us to pre lube a cold engine. However, as David said, The EPC Valve is probably a better idea. It is very easy to just hit the start button and forget to turn on the Accusump to pre oil the engine. It is also easy to forget to turn the accusump off before switching off the ignition.
We will probably be using the electric valve on our next project.

Kiwi

 

Ah yes, that was it, the "EPC" valve. That's the one that adds a pressure sensor to their existing electric valve, the valve they say not to use for racing. That was the logic/marketing flaw I never had explained to me. On the one hand they imply the electric valve is restrictive, so it shouldn't be used for racing. Then, when they add their "EPC" device to this same valve, now it's okay?

Doesn't make sense.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless you just want some bling...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or unless he just wants to spend the money. Honestly who cares if its made of rubber versus stainless. Peoples budgets should not be taken in consideration unless they ask "on a budget, what should I do".