Turbo and Laping
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From: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Turbo and Laping
hey guys I have a turbo LS with stock internals at 7 psi tuned on hondata, I was just wondering if there was anybody out there with turbo integras runing them on a track or laping days, and what isues they might have had such as over heating or break fade.
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From: Chicagoland, IL
Re: Turbo and Laping (B18 rider)
Overheating, brake fade, melted AC hoses, burned up oil dipsticks (about 6 so far), melted AC hoses again, engine fires, oil spraying everywhere randomly, cracked manifolds, blown turbo bearings, cracked ringlands, busted axles, corded tires, cooked wheel bearings, cracked brake rotors...
I can't think of anything else at the moment.
I can't think of anything else at the moment.
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From: Northern, CA, USA
Re: Turbo and Laping (Chris F)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Overheating, brake fade, melted AC hoses, burned up oil dipsticks (about 6 so far), melted AC hoses again, engine fires, oil spraying everywhere randomly, cracked manifolds, blown turbo bearings, cracked ringlands, busted axles, corded tires, cooked wheel bearings, cracked brake rotors...
I can't think of anything else at the moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<---is all I have to say
I can't think of anything else at the moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<---is all I have to say
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From: blavica
Re: Turbo and Laping (Chris F)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Overheating, brake fade, melted AC hoses, burned up oil dipsticks (about 6 so far), melted AC hoses again, engine fires, oil spraying everywhere randomly, cracked manifolds, blown turbo bearings, cracked ringlands, busted axles, corded tires, cooked wheel bearings, cracked brake rotors...
I can't think of anything else at the moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Show em the hood paint!!!
I can't think of anything else at the moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Show em the hood paint!!!
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From: T dot, O, Hemp Nation
Re: Turbo and Laping (Chris F)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Overheating, brake fade, melted AC hoses, burned up oil dipsticks (about 6 so far), melted AC hoses again, engine fires, oil spraying everywhere randomly, cracked manifolds, blown turbo bearings, cracked ringlands, busted axles, corded tires, cooked wheel bearings, cracked brake rotors...
I can't think of anything else at the moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>
DAYM....I think your response is gonna stop him from getting on the track with his boosted setup.
I can't think of anything else at the moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>
DAYM....I think your response is gonna stop him from getting on the track with his boosted setup.
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From: Chicagoland, IL
Re: Turbo and Laping (Dave_B)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Show em the hood paint!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Burned a couple holes in the hood paint... fortunately my crew has a black belt in ninja rattlecans.
Burned a couple holes in the hood paint... fortunately my crew has a black belt in ninja rattlecans.
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From: Charlotte
Re: Turbo and Laping (B18 rider)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1752506
brake fade = the faster you go the better stopping power you will need.
brake fade = the faster you go the better stopping power you will need.
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From: Chicagoland, IL
Re: Turbo and Laping (Willard)
Here's a couple more fun-filled turbo laps.
ITR Expo 6 at Gingerman
http://video.google.com/videop...hl=en
A race at Autobahn country club (only my third..)
http://video.google.com/videop...hl=en
ITR Expo 6 at Gingerman
http://video.google.com/videop...hl=en
A race at Autobahn country club (only my third..)
http://video.google.com/videop...hl=en
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
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From: CO, USA
Re: Turbo and Laping (Chris F)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Overheating, brake fade, melted AC hoses, burned up oil dipsticks (about 6 so far), melted AC hoses again, engine fires, oil spraying everywhere randomly, cracked manifolds, blown turbo bearings, cracked ringlands, busted axles, corded tires, cooked wheel bearings, cracked brake rotors...
I can't think of anything else at the moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've only had the overheating, brake fade, minor dipstick issues (needs replaced like once a season), and cracked manifolds. Hack some holes to let the engine bay breathe and the heat issues are greatly reduced, which also really helps to keep things from melting under the hood. The brake fade has an obvious solution. I don't have any real issues with 11" rotors and Cobalt Spec-VR pads though; the 10.3" rotors were a little harder to work with (and I went through them super fast). As for the manifolds, the cast iron RevHard manifold holds up decently (steel is unlikely to do well), but I think it would last a lot longer if I braced the turbo so that the manifold doesn't have to support it's weight. I plan to do that with the new manifold I'm installing now...
The corded tires, wheel bearings, brake rotors, and even axles are not uncommon things to have happen with road course use, turbo or not... their wear just gets increased a bit by having more power.
My car has been turbocharged for 3 years now, and there have been no problems with my turbo's bearings or the ring lands on stock '98 LS pistons. The only engine issues are some cylinder wall scoring from when I overheated it real bad on the track, and bent valves from when I misshifted and revved the LS head up to 9000+ RPM. This winter's project is a fresh engine, and I'm tempted to go with a B20B...
I did have a leaky headgasket pretty early on, but a Cometic HP gasket and ARP head studs fixed that.
I can't think of anything else at the moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've only had the overheating, brake fade, minor dipstick issues (needs replaced like once a season), and cracked manifolds. Hack some holes to let the engine bay breathe and the heat issues are greatly reduced, which also really helps to keep things from melting under the hood. The brake fade has an obvious solution. I don't have any real issues with 11" rotors and Cobalt Spec-VR pads though; the 10.3" rotors were a little harder to work with (and I went through them super fast). As for the manifolds, the cast iron RevHard manifold holds up decently (steel is unlikely to do well), but I think it would last a lot longer if I braced the turbo so that the manifold doesn't have to support it's weight. I plan to do that with the new manifold I'm installing now...
The corded tires, wheel bearings, brake rotors, and even axles are not uncommon things to have happen with road course use, turbo or not... their wear just gets increased a bit by having more power.
My car has been turbocharged for 3 years now, and there have been no problems with my turbo's bearings or the ring lands on stock '98 LS pistons. The only engine issues are some cylinder wall scoring from when I overheated it real bad on the track, and bent valves from when I misshifted and revved the LS head up to 9000+ RPM. This winter's project is a fresh engine, and I'm tempted to go with a B20B...
I did have a leaky headgasket pretty early on, but a Cometic HP gasket and ARP head studs fixed that.
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From: bay area
Re: Turbo and Laping (Chris F)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's a couple more fun-filled turbo laps.
ITR Expo 6 at Gingerman
http://video.google.com/videop...hl=en
A race at Autobahn country club (only my third..)
http://video.google.com/videop...hl=en</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn those were fun lol!
ITR Expo 6 at Gingerman
http://video.google.com/videop...hl=en
A race at Autobahn country club (only my third..)
http://video.google.com/videop...hl=en</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn those were fun lol!
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From: Dementia
Re: Turbo and Laping (B18 rider)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18 rider »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what steps have you taken to over come problems, what are you runing as far as cooling?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Simple solution, wrap all the piping in heat wrap, big radiator, and E85. We have yet to have any cooling issues. Only issue we have is everything else on the car besides the motor and turbo setup falling apart.
Simple solution, wrap all the piping in heat wrap, big radiator, and E85. We have yet to have any cooling issues. Only issue we have is everything else on the car besides the motor and turbo setup falling apart.
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From: Browns Summit, NC, USA
Re: Turbo and Laping (B18 rider)
don hill aka mrlegoman just finished up 5 hours on track with a full race setup in his car. he keeps low boost levels to maintain reliability and had a trouble free 3 days at VIR full!! other than alittle kiss with a tirewall...
great job don!
chad
great job don!
chad
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From: Dementia
Re: Turbo and Laping (B18 rider)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18 rider »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im stuck using a half size civic style radiator because of the I have a equale lenght manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
We used the fluidyne half civic radiator, running water / water wetter. I'd really look into the heat wrap though, doesnt look uber pretty but gets the job done.
We used the fluidyne half civic radiator, running water / water wetter. I'd really look into the heat wrap though, doesnt look uber pretty but gets the job done.
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From: CO, USA
Re: Turbo and Laping (B18 rider)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18 rider »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im stuck using a half size civic style radiator because of the I have a equale lenght manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If I had to do it all over again, I'd consider using the half-size Fluidyne, because the full size one just gets in the way, and it's so close to the turbo that it's probably being heated up by it. And this is even with custom top brackets that I made to give me more room between the radiator and the engine parts. The half-size would make working on it much easier. My only concern would be in the wet, since I have a vent in my upper bumper, and my full size radiator keeps water from directly hitting the turbo and manifold (cracking manifolds is no fun).
As far as cooling performance goes, the half-size Fluidyne should work fine as long as it can breathe. The key to cooling a turbo car is airflow... I have an opening in the top of the front bumper, so the air comes in through that, goes through the radiator, over the turbo, and out the drop-vent in the hood. It works wonders, and now I can stay on the track indefinately without overheating, when 4-5 laps was really pushing it with the stock bumper and hood. The heat soak on the engine is also much lower now, and that's a big deal for a turbo car... less heatsoak = less drop in power after each lap.
If I had to do it all over again, I'd consider using the half-size Fluidyne, because the full size one just gets in the way, and it's so close to the turbo that it's probably being heated up by it. And this is even with custom top brackets that I made to give me more room between the radiator and the engine parts. The half-size would make working on it much easier. My only concern would be in the wet, since I have a vent in my upper bumper, and my full size radiator keeps water from directly hitting the turbo and manifold (cracking manifolds is no fun).
As far as cooling performance goes, the half-size Fluidyne should work fine as long as it can breathe. The key to cooling a turbo car is airflow... I have an opening in the top of the front bumper, so the air comes in through that, goes through the radiator, over the turbo, and out the drop-vent in the hood. It works wonders, and now I can stay on the track indefinately without overheating, when 4-5 laps was really pushing it with the stock bumper and hood. The heat soak on the engine is also much lower now, and that's a big deal for a turbo car... less heatsoak = less drop in power after each lap.
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From: Roanoke A.K.A. Redneckville,VA
Re: Turbo and Laping (chad)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don hill aka mrlegoman just finished up 5 hours on track with a full race setup in his car. he keeps low boost levels to maintain reliability and had a trouble free 3 days at VIR full!! other than alittle kiss with a tirewall...
great job don!
chad</TD></TR></TABLE>was that the white EG this weekend?
anyway,my suggestion is to keep the boost really low.i'm assuming you have no track experience,so that helps in two ways-it'll keep the power at a manageable level so it's easier to learn the track and technique,and it'll be easier on brakes and engines.good fluid and pads should be sufficient.
what wastegate do you have?Tial makes something like a 3 or 4 lb spring for their wastegates.get a manual boost controller set to your usual 7psi,then throw it back on after the track day.
get some air flowing under the hood.an easy solution i've found is to remove the rubber weatherstripping from the front edge of the hood,and from the cowl cover at the back.this really seems to keep things cooler,and doesn't make any noticeable increase in water getting in during rainy street driving.
keep an eye on water temps,and an oil temp gauge wouldn't be a bad idea.if things start getting hot,pull off,and you'll know if you need more radiator capacity or an oil cooler before the next event.again though,at low boost,i don't think either will be a problem.
Chris
great job don!
chad</TD></TR></TABLE>was that the white EG this weekend?
anyway,my suggestion is to keep the boost really low.i'm assuming you have no track experience,so that helps in two ways-it'll keep the power at a manageable level so it's easier to learn the track and technique,and it'll be easier on brakes and engines.good fluid and pads should be sufficient.
what wastegate do you have?Tial makes something like a 3 or 4 lb spring for their wastegates.get a manual boost controller set to your usual 7psi,then throw it back on after the track day.
get some air flowing under the hood.an easy solution i've found is to remove the rubber weatherstripping from the front edge of the hood,and from the cowl cover at the back.this really seems to keep things cooler,and doesn't make any noticeable increase in water getting in during rainy street driving.
keep an eye on water temps,and an oil temp gauge wouldn't be a bad idea.if things start getting hot,pull off,and you'll know if you need more radiator capacity or an oil cooler before the next event.again though,at low boost,i don't think either will be a problem.
Chris
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 432
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From: New York
Re: Turbo and Laping (Weston)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Weston »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the cast iron RevHard manifold holds up decently (steel is unlikely to do well), but I think it would last a lot longer if I braced the turbo so that the manifold doesn't have to support it's weight. I plan to do that with the new manifold I'm installing now... </TD></TR></TABLE>
So a top mount or a ramhorn will not work, cuz I plan on having a drag/road racer weekend car
the cast iron RevHard manifold holds up decently (steel is unlikely to do well), but I think it would last a lot longer if I braced the turbo so that the manifold doesn't have to support it's weight. I plan to do that with the new manifold I'm installing now... </TD></TR></TABLE>
So a top mount or a ramhorn will not work, cuz I plan on having a drag/road racer weekend car
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 10,399
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From: Chicagoland, IL
Re: Turbo and Laping (AViciousTHRUST)
My minime is holding up just fine!
I cracked my GReddy mani (cast), which had a external wastegate welded on the top. It cracked right where it was modified.
I cracked my GReddy mani (cast), which had a external wastegate welded on the top. It cracked right where it was modified.
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From: Bajiniashyu No Richomondo Desu
Re: Turbo and Laping (Chris F)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Overheating, brake fade, melted AC hoses, burned up oil dipsticks (about 6 so far), melted AC hoses again, engine fires, oil spraying everywhere randomly, cracked manifolds, blown turbo bearings, cracked ringlands, busted axles, corded tires, cooked wheel bearings, cracked brake rotors...
I can't think of anything else at the moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn..sort of discouraging.
Has anyone tried to wrap their manifold to keep from melting dipsticks? Does it actually help?
I can't think of anything else at the moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn..sort of discouraging.
Has anyone tried to wrap their manifold to keep from melting dipsticks? Does it actually help?
Suspetise...
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,287
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From: Burninating the peasants yo
Re: Turbo and Laping (chad)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don hill aka mrlegoman just finished up 5 hours on track with a full race setup in his car. he keeps low boost levels to maintain reliability and had a trouble free 3 days at VIR full!! other than alittle kiss with a tirewall...
great job don!
chad</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don hit a tirewall? Bummer!
great job don!
chad</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don hit a tirewall? Bummer!