Okay so Im having some serious problems with my wiring, and this all started about a week ago. So Around this time last week I notcied that I couldn't roll down my passenger side window without closing the driver side door first. Once the door was closed everything was fine. Then a few days later my alarm started trippin out. I would disarm it, get in and start it up; but it would die like I never disarmed it because the stater kill would kick in. Then I would have to arm and disarm a few times before it would work. Then, I don't know exactly how, but the car would die while I was driving and I would have to arm and disarm to start it up again. But even sometimes it wouldn't disarm. I figured the alram was shortng out somewhere so I just disconnected the brain with hopes that it would bypass the starter kill. Well luckily that worked. So today my ****** driver side window stopped working, but luckily it was down already. Im begining to think that my driver side door switch took a **** on me, but if I leave the door open and push in the switch a little the driver side will rold down. I cant seem to figure out how all these problems are related to each other. Also my passenger side door lock hasn't worked in a LONG time, but I just thought that the actuator was bad but maybe it has something to do with all of this.

Now I have some time to fix this problem, but I'm not sure where to start. To be honest I would like to completely re-do the ENTIRE wiring in my car because some of it is pretty ghetto, but that would take too long and I need my car just about everyday. So for now I'll start with this.

So my question is are the any realys that could have gone bad to cause ANY of these problems? I'm planing on getting a multimeter to test the wires, but is there more to it than that? Also could my door switch be the cause of all this fucked up **** to happen? I think I'm going to try to re-do my alarm myself, and I know http://www.the12volt.com has a lot of good wirind diagrams, but does anybody have any tips or advice on attacking this problem myself?

Any info is much appreciated, THANKS!

 

The door switches on these cars are notorious for causing problems - even with doors on the opposite side of the car. It wouldn't surprise me in the least if one switch went bad and ruined the entire deal.

Also, check for bad grounds anywhere you see a wire bolted to the unibody. Good luck

 

Yeah dude, as soon as I was leaving school I put on my left tunr signal and the car just died. But I heard a clicking noise like the sound a relay makes just as it turned off. So my guess is that one of the problems is the starter kill relay. I dont know this is a headache

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The door switches on these cars are notorious for causing problems - even with doors on the opposite side of the car. It wouldn't surprise me in the least if one switch went bad and ruined the entire deal.

Also, check for bad grounds anywhere you see a wire bolted to the unibody. Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

Is there a way to test the switch with a multimeter?

 

wuddup bug! havent seen you in ages!

the multimeter CAN help, your connections may be intermittent. at the time you measure with the multimeter, it could be good, or it could be bad or just flakey like the measurement will bounce around . it all depends on how you measure the circuitry and how solid the contacts are. but yea like arch said, double check your grounds. the relay "wiper" could be bad also. and also try to push in all of your connectors and make sure that they are secure. use a small stick and push all the pins on the connectors to make sure they are in nice and snug

 

Well i completely took out my alarm so that problem is solved, but the windows still wont roll down. I've checked all the fuses a million times and they all look fine. I dont know if the relay gone bad, a bad ground or if the motor is shot. I highly doubt it the motor because it was both of my windows one after the other. I'lll try to test the contacts to make sure they are good, but where would I start to look for the grounds for these?

 

You should be able to test the viability of the motor by directly applying a 12V current to the appropriate leads to roll it up or down. Well, so long as your motor is designed for 12V... check before you go mad scientist on it...

 

I'm pretty sure its 12v, but just how do I directly apply 12v's to it? What would I use?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Bug &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm pretty sure its 12v, but just how do I directly apply 12v's to it? What would I use?</TD></TR></TABLE>

get a 12 volt battery with 2 leads. one on black one on red and apply it to the motor that works the window

 

I checked the motor and the power lock and they all work fine, so I guess its time to follow the wires and make sure nothing is exposed. I eevn checked the power in the switch and that read 12v, so I dont know why this is happening.

 

I'm bumping this back up because its seriously pissing me off and I have no ****** clue on whats wrong. Any info would be much appreciated.

 

I guess no one esle has any idea either