The MD/VA area just got drenched this past weekend and Monday thru Tuesday. I was unfortunate enough to not see a deep puddle when I was turning into a mall. The engine immediately shut off and I tried to restart it when the water receded below the intake level. Off topic, I should sue the mall for poor drainage to cause the hydrolock. After I went through the puddle, it was only half deep to about a foot high. /Off topic

Anyway, when I hydrolocked my engine which is a F23 with an AEM cold-air intake, it didn't have a big bang sound like you'd if a rod snapped or the block blew a hole.

I tried cranking it 2 days later thinking it didn't ingest too much water. It cranked half a turn and stopped. I tried it once more and the starter seemed kinda weak. After that, I think it's pretty well stuck without trying to take out the spark plugs and turn it over.

Now the questions. Can a rod snap or bend without making much noise or blowing a hole in the block? Also, how do you turn over and get water out of the engine safely? Can you use the starter to turn it or should you use a big breaker bar with a pulley adapter and turn the crank pulley bolt with the tranny in Neutral and wheels in the air? How do I prevent the pulley bolt from loosening?

Thanks guys. I'd appreciate any help. I'm getting nervous since I've never heard of a F23 hydrolocking before.

 

The whole engine not turning over is a good sign of hydrolock or a rod being forced against the block and not allowing to turn.

I swapped a b16 in a ef hatch from this. Mainly from the intake not being factory.

I didn't see the big *** whole in the block until I removed the a/c compressor as it was the #1 cylinder smashed. Then once block out it had a hole on the back side that was block by the intermediate shaft.

So yeah there could be a cracked block or broken rod in there. The sudden stop would be the first sign.

Sorry to be mean but that is the reality of it.

Good luck.

 

Unfortunately it sounds like your car definately hydrolocked. My car hydrolocked a few months ago and I had a SRI ! My car did'nt make any noise ( bending rods), it just shut off after I ran through the puddle and never cranked over.

 

If you decide to keep your CAI after you fix the problem, go to injenonline.com. They sell a heat/splash guard shield. I bought mines right after I got another motor swapped in to replace the hydrolocked one. It was put to the test a week ago during a rain storm. I was doing 60ish during a rainstorm a week ago when a huge puddle appeared. Soon as the hit the puddle, it was deja vu. But this time the car did'nt shut off and I escaped a potential costly situation.

 

Drain and fill it with oil real good a couple of times. Take out the plugs and like Mr Wonderful (awkward...) said crank it over a few times and hope not a lot of water spews out. Make sure all the electrical connections are clean/dry/not burnt and try again. You might get lucky.

If not, good luck suing the mall when you have a CAI.

edit: Where are you located and which mall was it at. I'm in Central VA so I'm curious.

 

I dont know exactly how you would sue because you put an aftermarket cold air intake on your car without a bypass, it is lower than the factory filter element so I doubt they will do anything for you...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Wonderfull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why wouldnt you take out the plugs and crank it before trying to stasrt it again???? I would....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I didn't want to tow it if it was going to turn over and be driveable. I don't think it ingested too much water so I tried to just drive it. But since it didn't work 2 days after, I'd rather tow it and then try to take all the water out before starting again.

 

if you take the plugs out and it won't turn over still you fried something in the bottom end.
Whereabouts do you live? I could look at it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The whole engine not turning over is a good sign of hydrolock or a rod being forced against the block and not allowing to turn.

I swapped a b16 in a ef hatch from this. Mainly from the intake not being factory.

I didn't see the big *** whole in the block until I removed the a/c compressor as it was the #1 cylinder smashed. Then once block out it had a hole on the back side that was block by the intermediate shaft.

So yeah there could be a cracked block or broken rod in there. The sudden stop would be the first sign.

Sorry to be mean but that is the reality of it.

Good luck. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you see a puddle of oil the next day you looked at the car? I tried looking at any oil puddles and I didn't see any so I'm hoping my block is still in good shape. But yeah, if a rod bent, I'm sure I won't know without a tear down. Let's see...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teamlegacy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drain and fill it with oil real good a couple of times. Take out the plugs and like Mr Wonderful (awkward...) said crank it over a few times and hope not a lot of water spews out. Make sure all the electrical connections are clean/dry/not burnt and try again. You might get lucky.

If not, good luck suing the mall when you have a CAI.

edit: Where are you located and which mall was it at. I'm in Central VA so I'm curious.</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you crank, should you use the starter or manually turn the crank pulley bolt?

This was at a mall near College Park, MD, far away from Central VA. I don't think I'm suing since there are no witnesses and the water receded quickly after I went through it. I guess I cleared a drain and the water level went down. Oh, well I thought I'd entertain that thought to lick my wounds a bit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you take the plugs out and it won't turn over still you fried something in the bottom end.
Whereabouts do you live? I could look at it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm near DC. Are you going to be around here anytime soon? I was planning to work on it on Sunday with a friend and try to turn it over and do some compression testing. If the engine needs a tear-down, I'm gonna have to go to a shop for that. I only have a driveway to work with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F23Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you crank, should you use the starter or manually turn the crank pulley bolt?

This was at a mall near College Park, MD, far away from Central VA. I don't think I'm suing since there are no witnesses and the water receded quickly after I went through it. I guess I cleared a drain and the water level went down. Oh, well I thought I'd entertain that thought to lick my wounds a bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>'

Try and start it just like normal. It obviously won't start with any spark plugs in it, so no worries.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teamlegacy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">'

Try and start it just like normal. It obviously won't start with any spark plugs in it, so no worries.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, man.

 

No problem. Best of luck to you!

 

I didn't own the car just did the swap for the guy. He was doing about 55 on highway and car just stopped. Then him and a friend try to push start car and I think that is what messed it up more.

 

Ok, so the latest is that I got the car to start again after taking a bit of water out by taking out the spark plugs and cranking it with the starter. After starting it up, my friend and I tried some intake manifold and throttle body cleaner and it burned up some water in the engine and exhaust. So far so good. But after that happened, I noticed that the idle was pretty crazy. It kept revving on its own from about 1300 RPM's to about 2700 RPM's. After it did this for like 2-3 min, a CEL came on and the idle began to rev. between 1300 and 1800 RPM's very quickly with the engine rocking back and forth and all.

I've heard of revs going up and down but not between 1300 and 1800 RPM's really quick. When it does this, it's undriveable because it jerks the car back and forth.

So I took out the spark plugs and find that they're all fouled up. I take the same intake mani and throttle body cleaner and wipe the gunk off. We compression test each cylinder and it comes out to about 120 - 130 avg. with cylinder 1 registering 140. The service manual said the min. pressure is 135. Should I be worried?

I have to get this code scanned out but do you guys have any idea what's causing the idle to rev so high and then fluctuate so quickly afterwards? Thanks.

 

sounds like there is still water in the block

 

take the IAC valve off and check it out. Sounds like it may have sucked some in too

 

reason #48376542 why not to get a CAI system for my car. That engine won't live much longer if you bent a rod............

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I got the CD5 Jeebies! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like there is still water in the block </TD></TR></TABLE>

What makes you say that? Like which symptom? Should I run the engine long enough to burn up the water then?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Wonderfull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

x2, or the FICV...... water in the block wont do it, if you took out the plugs and cranked it over you are good... as i mentioned.. you should check your oil though, and change it as the h2o has gotten into the CC. the question is how much. Hope your rods are not bent....

How fast were you going???? when you hit the puddle... also how far on the throttle were you (the amount the plate is open could affect how much water your engine inhaled (and how much damage you did).....

To answer your question... yes, a rod can benmd without making any real audible noise...it may knock IF bent enough....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I changed the oil after it cranked over and idled. The oil was black but not murky so I doubt any water was in it. I'm sending it to Blackstone Labs to be sure though.

I was only going about 30 MPH from a blind turn. I didn't hit this puddle in full view or anything. So right after the apex of the turn is when I ran into this puddle. The revs were probably between 2 and 3.5K RPMs since I tend to rev high. I was in a hurry, too, which didn't help my judgement.

Now, what's this FICV you're talking about? I'm going to see how I can take off the IAC valve without taking the throttle body out? I mean the throttle body is right up against the firewall so it's a real pain to take it out. I did adjust the idle screw to see if it'd change the weird revving but nada. No discernible change. By the way, thanks for the feedback. Any bit helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Wonderfull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

He is wrong.... dont worry... If you took the plugs out and cranked it, youre good!!! (As in you wont run the risk of hydrolocking it any worse)

There might be as i mentioned above water in the crankcase (which wont affect the overall picture much, but SHOULD be adressed right away).

EDIT: never mind, just saw that you changed it... GOOD STUFF MAN...what code you throwin????</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh ok. Regarding the CEL code, I wanted to take it to AutoZone since it's pretty close, but I think I'll just get it tonight or tomorrow with the "jumper into the OBDII harness and read the blinking light trick". I'm hoping it's the O2 sensor and not something exotic. I have no idea how much these MAP sensor, IAC valve, or this other FICV someone mentioned cost.

What do you guys think about the compression rating? It's pretty low at only around 120 to 130 (kPa or psi, I forgot which) where it should be at 135 like it says in the service manual.

 

Those compression readings are fine, especially since its an older car.


if it was like 30 psi lower it would be problem

A compression test would only tell if you had leaking valves or piston rings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by standbackimapro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those compression readings are fine, especially since its an older car.


if it was like 30 psi lower it would be problem

A compression test would only tell if you had leaking valves or piston rings</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gotcha. But hey, my car's not that old. It's only 6 years old with 74k miles. She's still a youngin'.

 

Ok, I think the codes it's throwing out are 14 and 3. I figured it'd be 3, which is a MAP sensor malfunction and 14, which is an idle control problem? I think I'll take it into AutoZone for exact codes but do you guys know how to reset a MAP sensor? I'm asking because those shops that bore out throttle bodies say that they also "reset" the MAP sensor to factory spec. I was wondering if it's an adjustment someone can do with a tool like a screwdriver.

Also, when the MAP sensor is disconnected, the engine stalls. I hear that it's supposed to still run. Not only that, the engine is running very rich because of the plugs turning jet black. So it definitely looks like the MAP sensor is messed up but is there a way to "fix" it? I could also havec wet O2 sensors going through thermal shock so I'd like to save the MAP sensor if I can. Thanks!