Okay guys. I kinda wrecked my ride the other day. I slammed into a curb going maybe 40mph trying to pull off a 90 degree left hand turn. My tires lost grip and bam,lol. Oh well. My question is that I pretty much need to rebuild my entire front passenger side assembly. You guys have an idea what I should expect to pay to rebuild. I was told that my upper and lower arms are bent, My shock is bent. I have a leak in my caliper. And the welds are off on the bottom to were it attaches to the frame.

 

wow that aint gonna be cheap at leat $500 if you have someone do it for you. Your caliper leaking is a coinsidence btw (I dont see how that could have been damaged without tearing the rim apart)

 

yeah i figured at least 500 but the guy that checked it out for me said anywhere from 600 to over a grand. i will get pics up by this weekend hopefully. i would hate to get rid of the car considering everything i put into it. i would perfer to have it sit before i get rid of it but i live in apartments.

but no the wheel isn't busted. it scratched up pretty good and the tire is still inflated. i would think just the line loosend or the cv boot busted because there was a bit of fluid on the back side of the wheel.

 

Pictures will let us give you a better estimate.
why were you going so fast in such a tight turn?

 

lol. i was trying to leave work sunday night to try to catch the rest of the nba finals game. i can't blame anyone but myself though. i usually don't take that corner that fast but this time i got caught and now I gotta pay to play.

 

when you were talking about some welds being off where it attaches to the frame, were you refering to the subframe?

When I hit a curb I broke my rim, had a leaky caliper, bent lower control arm, bent radius rod and bent the subframe where the LCA mounts.

I bought the subframe and lower control arm at a junkyard for like $120. The junkyard didn't have the radius rod so I just ordered a new one from Majestic for like $30. The leaky caliper was coming from the banjo bolt on the back, but when I put everything back together, nothing leaked at all so I never replaced it. Then I just got some Prelude Si rims and new tires. The ball joints, upper control arm and tie rods were all fine. So total amount for just the parts in the suspension that I bent was only around $150. The rims and tires along with other things I did (rotors, pads, bearings, timing belt, balancer belt, ect) added more cost but those were things that needed to get done anyway, well except for the rims.

 

thanks touringaccord. your situation sounds exactly like mine. i think the guy that checked it out said something about a subframe. i took it as what ever part attaches to the lower control arm is also welded to the frame. but i will put up pics this weekend. i don't have time to do it now due to working my partime job at night and working full time during the day. i will be sure to hit you up to let you see if mine fix can be as easy as yours. did you do your own work or you got someone to do it for you. i am not mechanically inclined nor do i have the right tools so someone will have to do it for me. i will visit a junk yard for all the part that i can and go from there. i also remember the guy saying something like having to pull something back out in order for the car to drive straight.

 

yep, np. yeah, sounds similar. No, the part the lower control arm attaches to is the subframe. The subframe is just bolted to the frame with four bolts. The rear beam of the front subframe is part #2 in the diagram below.



I did the work myself with help from my girls brother. I removed the engine because I was doing other things and I felt it would make things faster, whoever the engine does not need to come out to replace the subframe. You'll need to remove steering rack from the subframe and unbolt anything thats attached to the subframe. Then before you unbolt the rear mount and the subframe, use a jack or something to help support the motor while you replace the subframe. You don't really need any special tools to do the job. But I would recommend having a service manual handy, it'll make things easier.

I don't know what would need to be "pulled" to get the car straight. Your rim/tire hit the curb. I would think you're going to bend and mess up the suspension parts before you bend your frame. But I didn't look at it or see the accident so I could be wrong.

 

Okay here are my pics. Remember I got the guy that did my swap for me check this out. I assume he knows what needs to be done. But from what he told me, it doesn't seem that bad when I took my wheel off to take this pics.


Looking from the outside.


Axle grease present. Does the axle need to be replaced, Can this be a tranny issue?


Looking underneath and up. Caliper leak and whatever bar this is shown is damaged and knocked from orginal position. Does the bar need to be replaced and/or just reposition back. Caliper seems to be the banjo bolt like TouringAccord stated.


Upper control arm slightly twisted. Can this be retwisted or just get a new one. The SPC ball joint camber kit seems to be okay. My shock nor spring seems to be damaged at all. Look thru the other pics to see if I am right.


The part in the middle is the part that I assume is what needs to be re-welded. The piece also seems to have buckled a bit.


Another veiw looking underneath at caliper. My torsion bar seems to be damaged. It was knocked inward from the mount and appears to be bent in from the control arm area. Definite replace right. A chance to go after market if the junk yard doesn't have it.


I just don't see the damaged I was really told besides what I have listed with the other pics. Do you guys see anything else?


Based on what you guys have seen, does it look to be a 600-1000+ dollar fix if a mod shop did my work. I will get my own parts but does the labor involved seem to fit my bill?


Modified by flight50 at 9:37 AM 6/18/2006


Modified by flight50 at 9:37 AM 6/18/2006


Modified by flight50 at 9:38 AM 6/18/2006

 

wow, nice work dude. i did the exact same thing to my civic, except i wasnt going as fast. you def need to replace a lot, if not all of the obviously messed up ****. and even though something appears to be ok does not mean that it is. 600-1000 dollars sounds right with used parts.

 

wow, that bring back some painful memories.

In your second picture, it's sorta hard to tell but probably just replacing the axle would fix that problem.

In the third picture, that bar that looks to have broke one of it's mounting bolts is the radius rod. It runs from the LCA to the front beam of the front subframe. I can't tell if just the radius rod is bent or if just the LCA is bent, but most likely both are bent.

I think, don't quote me, but I think I may still have that radius rod from when I did my Accord. The junkyard just gave me the radius rod that came with the LCA even though it wasn't right. It was for an auto and I had a manual. It was from a 94 Accord but it should be the same, I'll have to check on that though. But if your interested, I'll look and see if I have it, I'll sell it to you for cheap.

In the fourth picture, I would just replace the UCA and balljoint.

In the fifth picture, your tie rod end "appears" to be ok but I can't say for sure. That part that you said needs the welding and looks to be bent a little, is the rear beam of the front subframe. Thats the same part and area I messed up on my Accord. When you look for that part in junkyards or on Car-Part, you'll probably need to look under "engine cradle" if I remember correctly.

I can't tell if your swaybar is bent or not. If your LCA is bent quite a bit then it's possible that the swaybar could be bent. It looks to have moved, if you look at the bushing that holds the swaybar to the car in picture six. Again though, can't tell if it's bent. I couldn't tell if mine was either so I just replaced it with a new one from Majestic cause no junkyard had one.

I would hold off on that caliper until you have it all back together. If it still leaks when you put it all back together then replace it. Make sure you use new crush rings.

<U>parts to replace</U>
rear beam of front subframe
lower control arm
radius rod
upper control arm/balljoint

<U>possible parts to replace</U>
axle
swaybar
tie rod end

The hardest part by far to replace will be the rear beam of the front subframe. you need to remove a good amount of parts to replace it. Overall I wouldn't say it's real hard, just time consuming.

I don't know how much it'll cost at a shop because I did all my own work. But all the parts could probably be had for under 300 depending on the deals you find and if your buying new and used or just all uses parts.