Well, I got one switch, but it wasn't what I wanted. I also forgot to get a package of femal spade connectors. So this is the install with a bit of wiring, the rest of the wiring I'll be doing at a later date (this weekend possably). This should be enough info for just about anyone to complete the install themselves however. I missed some pictures of stuff, but I still have to do the passenger side. If you want pics of how to do something, now is the time to ask.

Here's the stock window regulator. I circled in red the holes that we will be using. I guessed with the markere before, but was off a bit. You might want to mark these now to make it easier to remember where to put the regulator in later.


Here are the regulators side by side. Notice the tracks are different. Don't worry, this part is really easy.


This is the long regulator on the hatch, notice the ends are curled under. Bend them out with a pair of pliers. PAY ATTENTION TO HOW IT IS ORIENTED RELATIVE TO THE REGULATOR GEARS


Here they are bent out.

The long regulator on the 4D has the edges folded over. I bent them out with a pair of side cutters.
need pics

Slide the hatch rail onto the 4D regulator and curl the sides back under with pliers.

The short rails on both have this bullshit.


I drilled both out on my drill press.


Slide the hatch short rail onto the 4d regulator. I bent these under similar to how the long 4D rail was.


Now slide the power regulator into the door, line it up, and bolt it up.


For a switch I'm using this (for now).

Radioshack part number 275-709 is a 20 amp DPDT (dual-pole, dual throw) center-off momentary switch. I'm trying to find a decently priced rocker switch that will work. Digikey lists a few at like $10/per which isn't too bad.

I forgot to get the connectors, so here it is twisted (it will not be installed like this, I just wanted to have a pic for everyone to see how the wires are routed).



Red goes to a fused power source (tap off the acc terminal at the fuse block with an inline fuse, 10-15A, IDK what a stock 4D uses but that is probably ideal).
Black goes to ground.
Green goes to one motor wire.
Blue goes to the other motor wire.

The passenger side regulator has only 2 (blue) wires, those are the motor wires. THe drivers side regulator has 4 wires. I think 2 are for the position switch for the auto down function. Those 2 are slightly smaller. On my regulator the 2 wires for the motor are red.

Test it out and mount the switch wherever you want, just remember to mount it so up is up, and down is down. I'm sticking them in the center console by the shifter so I can reach both sides easily. Saves alot of hassel with the stupid 4D master switch and brain. Anyway, hopefully I'll have this completed and ready for archiving by this weekend.


Modified by krustindumm at 5:46 PM 3/28/2006


Modified by krustindumm at 5:49 PM 3/28/2006

 

ok, so i guess i need to resize my pics.

 

Looks like a good write up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, so i guess i need to resize my pics.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks like a good write up.


Please </TD></TR></TABLE>

I used a batch resizer, then uploaded and posted w/o checking. It seems it only resized the one pic of both regulators.

 

If your doing a write-up u betta resize those pics. Looks like a good start though...

 

finally got them done and in the correct spots.

 

 

instead of using a high amp switch, you can use stock civic 4dr switches using 2 relays for each door..............

 

can't wait to see the finished product.

 

i could, but i hate the look of those. I hate these too, but the rocker switches from digikey should work well and look good, without adding the complexity of relays.

I don't actually need them to be 20A switches, but that was all radioshack had. 5A would probably be fine.

http://www.digikey.com/scripts...te=US

Ordering 3 of those tonight, I may have a 4D power lock conversion to write about soon as well.

 

still lost...
did you use a DA power windows? what power window did you use?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC_RaceR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">still lost...
did you use a DA power windows? what power window did you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
im with this guy.. i thought i missed where it said what power window regulator you used.

 

Sorry, 88-91 Civic 4D/sedan front window regulators are used.

I just ordered the switches, with those different ones I found on digikey it was $15 for 3 of them shipped. Same price as the radioshack, but in a flush mount rocker switch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can't wait to see the finished product.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Could be awhile. The windows might be in, but the rest of the chassis wiring harness is currently out.

 

I like it so far. What was you total cost for the parts?

Thanks for helping out us "dumber" folks.

 

Ok, I think I might help some ppl that whant to use sir switches, 4dr civic or any 3 pole small current (.5amp to any amp) switches.

For this, you will need 2 relays for each door, stock switches and of course electrical window regulator.



Also, I forgot to add, verify how many amps does the motor consumes, and fuse the line for a little higher amperes... Example, if the motor consumes 9 amp, fuse it with a 10 amp fuse (fuse the 12V supply)... So the 87 line gets fused, not the 30 line

LMK or


Modified by pakipr at 7:32 AM 3/29/2006


Modified by pakipr at 7:46 AM 3/29/2006

 

Also, Grounding the motor in both poles when inactive, will not cause any damage to it or to the electrical system of your car.

any automotive relay will work......

check ebay, they have tons for cheap

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...QrdZ1

you might need to add a wire with male conector but thats easy..


Modified by pakipr at 7:41 AM 3/29/2006

 

This will really help out a lot of people!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaJack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I like it so far. What was you total cost for the parts?

Thanks for helping out us "dumber" folks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hard to say, switches were about $5 each, I paid $85 for the regulators, 2 4d rear door handles, and all four power lock actuators.

I forgot to mention, I'll be using flush mount tweeters to cover the holes left by the cranks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I'll be using flush mount tweeters to cover the holes left by the cranks </TD></TR></TABLE>

good idea.

I may have to start looking for parts and give that a try.

 

Looks like a good write up. Keep up with it.

 

Any Updates?

I have a set of 4door Power window motors and regulators for sale.
If interested please PM me.

Thanks

 

so does the motor only need a ground and a power or should I grab the wires off the four door while I'm at it?

 

so i sourced the reagulators and the door handles/switches...

i am going to use the 4 door handles and switches because i have power door locks...

what else do i need?

a relay or something?

can anyone recomend one on ebay that would work in my application?

i am horrible with electrical, i know, so sorry