E-brake or Handbrake

My brakes were squeaking a bit so I decided to swap em out for a pair of new pads. Hope this helps.

<U>Tools</U>
Jack
lug nut wrench
12mm wrench
c-clamp

<U>Materials</U>
latex gloves
brake lubricant

Sorry no pictures because I lost my account on imagestation.

Go ahead and remove wheel, you'll find a 12mm bolt behind the caliper & under the rotor. Remove with 12mm wrench.

After removal of 12mm bolt, raise caliper out of way so you could remove the worn brake pads.

Make it easier on yourself and remember which one is which so you could match it up with the new pads.
Use brake lubricant to lube all moving parts. Lube your old shims, the side of shim that touches back side of pad and caliper side that touches shim (so basically both sides of the shim should be lubricated).

Replace new pads onto rotor.

Before clamping remove cap from brake fluid reservoir. Use your c-clamp on this baby. You won't be able to swing the caliper down unless you compress it.

Install 12mm & wheel (installation is reverse). Pump brakes a few times before actual driving.

Good luck!



Modified by Inconclusive at 8:08 PM 10/11/2004

wannabe_si

you didnt bleed the brakes??
i always bleed the brakes
just for saftey reasons and brake fluid isnt expensive at all!

Ricey McRicerton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wannabe_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you didnt bleed the brakes??
i always bleed the brakes
just for saftey reasons and brake fluid isnt expensive at all!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would you?
EDIT: One thing I see missing is removing the brake fluid resovoir cover and making sure the extra fluid displaced from compressing the caliper doesn't spill over onto your paint.

E-brake or Handbrake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wannabe_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you didnt bleed the brakes??
i always bleed the brakes
just for saftey reasons and brake fluid isnt expensive at all!</TD></TR></TABLE>

No safety issues here

=GAME=

nice write up

autozone pads?

jaxle

nice writeup, when u compress that piston the brake fluid level goes up so make sure to watch that.

E-brake or Handbrake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaxle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice writeup, when u compress that piston the brake fluid level goes up so make sure to watch that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, I knew I was missing something.

p0rnstar

Nice writeup. Also, you don't need to bleed the brakes...just loosen the bleeder screw when you are compressing the piston so you don't send dirty fluid back up through the system. That can be especially bad if you get it into your ABS. Also, if you have hose clamps, you can use those on the hose to be sure no fluid is returning.

dohcdelsol

Awesome.... good job on it

Evs-One

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why would you?
EDIT: One thing I see missing is removing the brake fluid resovoir cover and making sure the extra fluid displaced from compressing the caliper doesn't spill over onto your paint. </TD></TR></TABLE>

might as well since you're at it. Maybe bring back some pedal feel, and you're already working on the brakes anyways

But then again, he should have resurfaced the rotors also, but a "pad slap" isn't bad at all

itsmike

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wannabe_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you didnt bleed the brakes??
i always bleed the brakes
just for saftey reasons and brake fluid isnt expensive at all!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would you need to bleed the brakes? And how is that done?

SOHC_MShue

definantely need latex gloves . I didn't use them when doing mine and that damn brake grease stuff got all over my hands and stayed for quite a while.

SpoolinEK9

humm i defently need to slap on some new brake pads real bad

E-brake or Handbrake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by =GAMEOVA= &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write up

autozone pads? </TD></TR></TABLE>

"SEI Brake Pads" Made in Japan. Does it make a difference?

I got them from Autoparts-net in Garden Grove, California

drunknbass

yea your supposed to remover the res cap before you compress the pistons to keep compressed air from getting into the lines, you dont usally have to bleed the brakes unless its mushy or you have some reason to think tyheres air in the lines.

i always used the anti squeak spray on the backside of the shims, and greased part of thepad that comes in contact with the hanger, but usally its not nessesary

kommon_sense

compressed air getting into the lines? just how would that happen? where would the compressed air come from? If you could do this then you would also introduce compressed air into the system when you push the brakes.

I followed the same procedure just a few days ago when I replaced my pads/rotors. brake pedal was fine. no sign of air in the lines.

AmginE

oh crap, i forgot the shims, does it matter?

Street Ghost

Nice write-up

dmotoguy

id either replace or get the rotors re-surfaced while i was at it.

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

very nice write up!

E-brake or Handbrake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AmginE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh crap, i forgot the shims, does it matter?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Forgot lubing it or putting them on? Lube is to absorb the vibration leading to squeaky brakes.

ruthless013

shims are not necessary on aftermarket pads (unless they come with them, but most don't).

disc-brake-quiet (orange/red color, available everywhere) is the solution to all your squeaking issues. a light coating on all metal to metal contact (except the pad material itself, that is) is adequate.

re-torque caliper bolts to ~25lbs/ft.

not necessary to bleed brakes, but couldn't hurt.

not necessary to cut rotors - probably cheaper to replace them with autozones anyhow.

maybe i have strong thumbs, but i can push the pistons back in by hand - slow, but they go. no risk to the rubber bootie that way.

latex gloves? you pussies

E-brake or Handbrake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ruthless013 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

latex gloves? you pussies

</TD></TR></TABLE>

^ good INFO I am what I eat

R you serious

lets do a write up on how to change our oil and fill our car up with gas next

Kid1320

sweet.