Alright i just got myself a 96 integra in mint condition , and i mean mint . Original owner kept records on everything down to every single dealer done oil change . The car is bone stock besides the 900 security system and the brand new silver paint . Its just your basic B18B nothing special , but id like to give it quite a bit more go . Id like to make a low 14 second integra , stock internals no LSvtec BS none of that . This is my daily driver and next year is going to have to make many trips back and forth to college nearly 3 hours away so reliability is of the upmost importance .

So far I have aquired a 4-2-1 header and a 2.5" exhuast , today i also oredered my goldline lowering springs (2.5" drop) and hopefully will find some nice shocks to go with it in the near future . The exterior will be staying stock looking for the most part besides the gunmetal with polished lip rims i have in my garage , the drop , and id like to do a type-r spoiler . As far as shooting for 14 seconds goes ill probably pick up a CAI , have my throttle body bored out and pick up a skunk2 intake manifold . Then after that ill be swapping out the oem clutch and flywheel for more than likely an exedy or ACt stage 2 and probably somewhere around a 9-12 pound flywheel .

So those are the plans so far , im hoping for some serious input from guys who have gone N/A on a non-vtec before that can give me a little input . Like i said id like to keep the internals stock , besides at the absolute most some cams . But id still prefer the valvetrain to remain stock . I have not completly gotten the idea of nitrous out of my head although i would prefer not to . So lets hear some input and steer me in the right direction for a reliable daily driver with a little more spirit .

 

N/A on an Non-vtec wont get you no where, just build a simple turbo set up and you should reach your goal no problem

 

Nope no turbo's , I dont want to get into a big argument on my thread about how they will effect my reliablity but lets just say i dont trust them . Besides if i was going to go F/I id be shooting for 12's and probably 300 whp stock block . This is nothing more than a daily driver so bolt-ons will do . But thanks for the input

 

you'll notice that most of those diehard NA is best guys already have transplants or platforms that already had vtec to begin with...there are a few die hard LS NA is best guys too, but there's a reason why there's so few...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMHatch95si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nope no turbo's , I dont want to get into a big argument on my thread about how they will effect my reliablity but lets just say i dont trust them . Besides if i was going to go F/I id be shooting for 12's and probably 300 whp stock block . This is nothing more than a daily driver so bolt-ons will do . But thanks for the input </TD></TR></TABLE>

okay u dont trust turbo's...

your best bet for low 14's NA...is get a good clutch/flywheel, and a b16 transmission.

 

How bout a stroker kit?

 

Im not diehard N/A just need to be reliable , if there was any honda motor i was gonna boost itd be a B18B for its low compression and forged rods . But not what im looking for .

A stroker kit would kind of kill the idea of stock internals but bumping displacemtn to what 1997cc would yeild quite a bit more torque . SO maybe down the road but not anytime in the near future .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMHatch95si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not diehard N/A just need to be reliable , if there was any honda motor i was gonna boost itd be a B18B for its low compression and forged rods . But not what im looking for .

A stroker kit would kind of kill the idea of stock internals but bumping displacemtn to what 1997cc would yeild quite a bit more torque . SO maybe down the road but not anytime in the near future . </TD></TR></TABLE>

B16 tranny. easily gets u into the 14s with an otherwise stock LS...

 

I/H/E good clutch, light flywheel and a B16 tranny should get you into the 14's

 

Yea the LS trnamission def. has some long gears , but how is a B16 or CTR tranny on the ighway ? I dont need to be running at 5000 RPM's just trying to cruise on the highway .

 

I/H/E, B16 Tranny, new clutch/flywheel, grounding kit (few WHP, i've seen dynos that prove this), pullies, weight reduction (strip that bitch!), good tires, lightweight rims, advance your timing, run 93 octane, new cams, better suspension, possibly thinner headgasket

 

yes the LS has low compression (9.2) but it by no means has forged rods. The LS has the weakest bottom end out of all the B series motors. It's low compression just makes it easier to tune with a higher margin for error. But, turbo is not what you want.

For NA LS, i really really doubt you can hit low 14s without building the motor. Simple bolt ons just aren't going to yank it. Search for user Nicklk, he built an NA LS that hit low 14s. His motor was completely built from bottom to top, with i believe 10.6:1 compression, crower valve train. I'm not sure if that run was with the crower 404 cams or not, but, he also had a GSR tranny with quaiffe (sp) LSD, traction bars, and was/is an excelent driver.

If you're serious about going fast NA in an LS you're probably going to have to replace some internals, if not at least the cams.

The intake, manifold, header+exhaust system, and cams all need to work together at making power together, in similar areas of the power band. And after all that, some good tuning with a stand alone system.

EDIT* that means that combos like skunk2 IM+4-2-1 header (depending on design) don't go together. If it's like a Toda or Hytech header then you might be okay. But, the LS does not make alot of power uptop. From personal experience, i hated the way the Skunk2 IM made my car feel. Granted i have no dyno proof of this loss of power, when i put the stock one back on i felt an instant boost in midrange, which is more enjoyable/realistic for the street.

 

Head gasket is another thing i was thinking of doing , interior is staying 100% installed .

So far this is what im thinking :
CAI
Header
Cat-back
thinner head gasket
crower cams
Possibly B16 , maybe B18C tranny
clutch
light-weight flywheel
throttle body
intake manifold

Seems like thatd be good for some low 14 second passes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slvrblckf4i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes the LS has low compression (9.2) but it by no means has forged rods. The LS has the weakest bottom end out of all the B series motors. It's low compression just makes it easier to tune with a higher margin for error. But, turbo is not what you want.

For NA LS, i really really doubt you can hit low 14s without building the motor. Simple bolt ons just aren't going to yank it. Search for user Nicklk, he built an NA LS that hit low 14s. His motor was completely built from bottom to top, with i believe 10.6:1 compression, crower valve train. I'm not sure if that run was with the crower 404 cams or not, but, he also had a GSR tranny with quaiffe (sp) LSD, traction bars, and was/is an excelent driver.

If you're serious about going fast NA in an LS you're probably going to have to replace some internals, if not at least the cams.

The intake, manifold, header+exhaust system, and cams all need to work together at making power together, in similar areas of the power band. And after all that, some good tuning with a stand alone system. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes tuning is definitily going to happen down the road , and i understand that it will be very neccesary to get the most from my upgrades . Ill be sure to pick up some cam gears and a wideband air/fuel for more precision .

 

If you want to squeeze 14 seconds out of an LS you need to consider everything. How big are the wheels you're getting? How much do they weigh? How wide are they?
I'd go for a very lightweight 15" wheel if i were you.
Tractions bars are going to help alot with getting that 14 second time slip.
You should probably get the GSR tranny, the b16 tranny will have you sitting at around 5k on the highway. You will need an LSD though if you inted to hit those times.
For an intake i would use the comptech icebox, possibly with the ITR stock intake arm. An AEM style CAI is going to move your peak torque lower, and if you're dragging the car, you won't get that peak torque.

Basically you need to decide whether you want an LS that absolutely hits low 14s, or an LS that makes more power and is fun to drive.

When i had my LS it was by no means fast, but the added midrange torque i got from my mods made it more fun to drive, not necessarily race.

 

get good bolt-ons with crower 404's and a different tranny. call it a day

 

http://www.team-integra.net/fo...earch


here's nicklk's thread. He ran a 13.8, my bad.

 

super charge

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slvrblckf4i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.team-integra.net/fo...earch


here's nicklk's thread. He ran a 13.8, my bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey keep in mind this is in colorado, westmister is at about 5200 ft of elavation, that alot. if he went down to sea level he could probably know about a 1/2 sec of his times

 

hmmm...low 14s for a stock integra is hard but one of my friends pulled a 14.7 on slicks with an ls

 

I think ill be able to break into the 14's , but it sounds like getting real low in the 14's is gonna be a bit tough . It will be a fun challenge

 

tuning youll be surprised what a good tune could do to a stock motor with some minore bolt ons...

 

I plan on starting out with this summer a SAFC then hopefully next winter ill do the OBD2-OBD1 conversion and get crome or something along those lines .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMHatch95si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I plan on starting out with this summer a SAFC then hopefully next winter ill do the OBD2-OBD1 conversion and get crome or something along those lines . </TD></TR></TABLE>

why dont u just skip the whole safc step altogether? it should cost about the same...

 

Well i can get an safc for like 100-150 bucks , so if theres somewhere i can get the harness ecu socketed and then tuned for even remotely near that im all for it .