Hey Gang,

Here is an update on my oil cooler install. I got all the parts and pieces together and installed on Saturday and Sunday this weekend(3-23&24-02). It was not the easiest install in the world to make...that is for sure. It went together very well after I figured out all the locations for the various pieces. Honda does not leave on inch free with out putting something in it. I took the car out for a hard run on Sunday afternoon and the oil temps are staying well in check now..about 210 degrees at max. The outside air was at about 75 degrees. I have only had one oil leak show up. I guess it's a fitting not snugged down enough. It's only dropping a tiny amount of oil, but I plan on getting into it later this week to see if I can get it fixed. I hope I don't have to take off the front bumper again ;-)

Anyway I just wanted to say thanks for all your help. Here is a link to the installed cooler, plus a materials list. I haven't added up how much it cost, and I don't want too ;-) I'll post more pictures of the car once I have all the leaks stopped, and a good coat of wax on it!

Some numbers as an FYI:

Before the cooler After the cooler
Max temp = 250+ 210 MAX
Oil Press @ 3.5Krpm = 76PSI Oil Press @ 3.5Krpm = 74PSI
Oil Press @Idle = 25PSI Oil Press @Idle = 25PSI
Total oil in system = 4.2 Qts Total oil in system = 5.5 Qts

Here is the web page with the info and pictures!


http://www.sportauto.cc/Oil-Cooler/a...ooler_text.htm


Cheers'

Steve Jones
'87 328 GTS
'01 ITR http://www.sportauto.cc

 

sure looks nice! I was looking at all your pictures, and I don't know how other people have installed theirs, or if my concern is even legit, but here it is:
you seem to make the oil travel all the up to the top of the engine compartment and then back down to the bumper, and then take the same path back. That seems like you are making the oil take quite a circuitous route, against gravity. That's a lot of "work" (in the physics sense of the term) for the oil pump, isn't it?
It obviously works, since you have already tested it, but i was wondering if it might be better to try and route everything underneath the engine?

just a thought that occured as I was looking at your install. Also, is your radiator mounted with just tie-wraps? I wouldn't have thought that it would be secure enough... Then again, I might have missed the mounting screws.

Again, I'm not trying to criticize your otherwise very good looking install, I am sincerely curious.

Nice second car, BTW... Always been a Ferrari fan myself.

 

I agree that it is taking the "long way around" to get to the engine. I looked for every possible way to get back to the engine from underneath. The problem I kept running into was getting back to the engine with out hitting a suspension piece,drive line parts or being lower than the oil pan. This path is actually shorter than the safe path underneath the car.I suppose one could take the brave direct route and hope you never cut an oil line with an "agricultural experience" off track , or it binds up in a suspension piece.

Once the system in pressurized initially "gravity" no longer exists basically, in respect to the oil flow. I did prime the system before I started the car. I did this by filling each hose and the cooler with oil after the final assembly was checked.

The cooler is mounted with tie wraps, but it there are also slots cut into the mounting "ears" that fit tightly around the center radiator support. and the bottom support. I did a LOT of research on this and a "hard" mounting position isn't recommend by Mocal. They "prefer it be zip tied to the factory water radiator", I suppose it prevents vibration that way.


I hope this helps. I am always open to suggestions to make it better. I am not beyond yanking it out to try something different. I sure as heck don't want to....but I will some one finds a mistake I've made.

I love my Ferrari...it's over priced and fussy....but It is worth every penny to me..YMMV

cheers'

 

Excellent. Thanks much for putting the article together, you just made my life a little easier.

 

Sure thing.....I'll see you at VIR in a few weeks? I suppose with the THSCC ?


We can see how well it is fairing

 

Yep. Hopefully with an oil cooler installed.

 

...if you need any extra parts, let me know. I have a few feet on -10AN hose left and several straight -10AN fittings....plus some other junk ;-)

 

cool. Thanks for answering my questions. I'm sure i will be installing one on my car in the next few years, and I try to print and archive articles and threads such as yours so that i don't have to repeat other people's mistakes...

One more question for ya: how is the location you picked for the oil filter, as far as changing it without making too much of a mess in the engine bay? I'm guessing you haven't taken it off yet... And it looks like the access is pretty good, but it was a little hard to tell without the filter being actually present on the mount.

thanks

 

The oil filter is WAY easy to get to now. It is mounted side ways and it clears the hood just fine. The way I change the oil in it is to use and old Porsche mechanics trick. I punch a small hole in the end of the filter. Then blow into it with the rubber tiped air hose I have. I blow just enough air into it to force the oil out of the filter. Works like a champ!

Good Luck!!!!

 

You are the !@#$ing man! Very detailed and informative install, I think you just saved me a few hours for when I go to do mine.

 

just trying to pay back all the info I have stolen from the rest of the board ;-)

 

Bringing this back from the dead, cause it was ahell of a writeup.... I do not have my printed paper anymore, and i wanted to see the photos of the install(theyre not on the site anymore) maybe someone saved them?

 

I had the site bookmarked while the parts sat in my office, then when I finally got ready to install, the pages/photos were down!

Quick question, will a sandwich plate adapter fit on a B18C1 block, or do you need to use a spin-on adapter with remote filter? The clearance is pretty tight back there...


Modified by ApexSport at 2:41 AM 1/6/2006

 

I use a greddy sandwhich plate, along with the cap to run lines to the remote filter.... In all honesty, youd only be spending like 40 bux between fittings, and the rem. filter mount to do it, and its way easier to get the filter off when its in your choice location.