hey i have a d15b2, i can pick up a Si head for 100 and its a decent upgrade from my standard hatch. I know i need a new ECU but dont know wut else i'll need. Please list everything i'll need for this swap, and if you have any advice or making it go smoother, thanks

 

i am also expecting to buy the spoon ecu, vtec crossover at 4900 and rev to 8500

 

is ur car already a multi-port injection... if it is.. u'll just need the ecu and running the vtec wire... if its a dual-port.. here's the directions..
Parts Needed:

Si ECU (PM6 for manual tanny)
Si Distributor
Si Compelet Intake Manifold (including TB, etc, etc)
Resistor Box (from 88-91 Si)
Si Wiring Harness (for plugs)
Manifold Support Bracket
Si Fuel Line from Filter to Fuel Rail
Extra Wire
Electrical Tape
Soldering Gun (very very useful but not necessary)


Si manifold on right, DX manifold on left

It is much easier to use your existing DPFI harness and just add the extra 4 wires that will be needed. The Si harness will be much harder to use.

There are two major wiring changes that you'll have to do going from a DPFI system to an MPFI and a couple other minor things that need to be done too:

The first one is the crank angle sensor wiring which is the easy part.

The second one is the fuel injector wiring which is slightly more complicated. Also, you'll have to switch the two wires on the TPS because the TPS on the new intake works in the opposite direction. If you dont switch them, the ECU will think that the engine is at Wide open throttle when its actually at idle. I highly recommend soldering and heat shrinking any electrical connections you will be making because it is very possible for connectors to come loose from all the vibration and solder will hold up better in the long run. Also, the TPS and EACV plugs are too short and they'll have to be extended. You're also going to have to switch the manifold support bracket, since the bolt parrern from the support to manifold is different from DX to SI, although they still bolt up on the block the same.

TO HOOK UP THE MULTI-POINT CRANK ANGLE SENSOR

- First, you'll have to go to the passengers foot well to where the ecu is located.
- Pin B10 and B12 should both be empty.
- You'll have to cut and move the wire that goes to pin C1(orange) over to pin B10, and move the wire from pin C2(white) over to pin B12. get these two mixed up or else the ignition timing will be severly retarded.Leave enough wire at the ECU side of pin C1 and C2 for next step.
- Now run wires from pins C1 and C2 into the engine compartment and label them.
- There will be a connector on the new Si distributor with two unused pins. One of the wires will be blue/green stripe, and the other will be blue/yellow stripe.
- The wire that is blue/green stripe will go to the wire from pin C1 on the ECU and the other wire that is blue/yellow stripe will go to the wire from pin C2.



SWITCHING THE WIRES AT THE TPS:

This pretty much explains itself, just switch the two outside wires(green/white and yellow/white) around at the TPS and then you're done this step. I used the TPS connector off the Si harness, just so that I could just match up all the wires, since the wires are already reversed on it.

INJECTOR WIRING

(In the Car)
First of all, while you're still in the passengers footwell, cut wires A3(yellow) and A7(red), although leave some wire on the ECU side for later use. Now run wires from pins A3 and A7 into the engine compartment and label them.

Engine Compartment):
- Mount the injector resistor box up on the drivers side shock tower.
- Connect the yellow/black wires from the two DPFI injector harnesses and run it to the yellow/black wire on the injector resistor box.
- Connect the yellow wire from the DX injector to the #1 injector (brown wire).
- Connect the red wire from the DX injector and run it to the #3 injector (blue wire).
- Connect the wire you labelled A3 to the #2 injector (red wire).
- Connect the wire labelled A7 to the #4 injector (yellow wire).
- Then, connect the 4 red/black wires coming from injector resistor box to each of the four injectors.



Completed Wiring Diagram



Distributor Wiring

You should have three extra plugs left over after you are done the swap. two of them are the old DPFI injector plugs, and the other one is for the tandem vavle for the DPFI system, which you do not use on the MPFI system, you can either just cut it off, or tuck it away somewhere.

 

i have dual port injection, im gonna have to pick up one from Si arent i?

 

no.. SI is a multi-port injection..

 

i'm running a D16Y7 wit a SI head and multi-port injection.. used to have a D15B2 with Dual-port injection.. i had to change all that for the mini-me swap..

 

To original poster---- The si head you are reffering to is a sohc vtec head or an 88-91 si sohc nonvtec head??

 

ok so i need a multi port injector...is it just bolt on? just buy that and replace the dual port?

 

the head is sohc vtec..and ok i guess i need a bit more than just new injection even though its seems like somewhat of a pain in the *** to do... good upgrade? were you happy?

 

Yes its worth it..Dpfi just plain sucks for gas mileage and performance..
No its not just boltin,,Go here and look http://crf50.no-ip.com/fourthgenhatch/mpfi.html..If you cant do it yourself check out rywire.com

Convert to mpfi..
Convert your car to obd1
Run a p28 ecu ,,

Or stay obd0 and get a chipped pm6 with sohc vtec fuel and timing maps and run some kind of switch for vtec or run the turboedit one-wire vtec..Also you'll need a 88-91 si/hf dizzy and you'll have to hack it up to fit the sohc vtec head,,Assuming the head is 92-95 d16z6...Search for more info,

 

thanks for the info i'm gettin it done sometime next week i think, unless i take it slow and dont buy everything in one shot and go broke lol, i'll post up any progress

 

well my first post might not have been exactly the correst situation im in...as a noob i was corrected so i figure i'll tell you wuts goin on. The Si head i got is d16a6. its not neccesary for me to convert to multi port injection, i can keep my dual, it just wont give me the most out of the head. this swap is direct bolt on, the only thing i need to buy is a new head gasket. i can also run vtec with my stock d15b2 wiring, all i need to go is chip my ecu. Si turn over at 4500? just curious, cuz if it doesnt im gonna buy the mugen ecu and have it turn over at 4400.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmef_sir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well my first post might not have been exactly the correst situation im in...as a noob i was corrected so i figure i'll tell you wuts goin on. The Si head i got is d16a6. its not neccesary for me to convert to multi port injection, i can keep my dual, it just wont give me the most out of the head. this swap is direct bolt on, the only thing i need to buy is a new head gasket. i can also run vtec with my stock d15b2 wiring, all i need to go is chip my ecu. Si turn over at 4500? just curious, cuz if it doesnt im gonna buy the mugen ecu and have it turn over at 4400.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Woah woah woah. d16a6 head does not have vtec, so that totally takes out a whole bunch there.

If you stay dpfi you can't just chip your ecu, there's not research on that right now, so you're basically screwed until you go mpfi.

Anyway, if you do end up getting a vtec head, leave it at 5500, lower will just suck, and don't waste your money on mugen ecus, get a custom one for 80-100 bucks (I can point you to a guy) and have it tuned. No substitute.

Also, the si d16a6 head is the same head as the d15b2, the only difference is cam and valve springs. Get a cam for like 20 bucks and swap it, don't waste 100 bucks on a damn d16a6 head when you could get the entire engine for that.

Good luck,

 

if D16a6 doesnt have vtec then i hope i got the code wrong...i bought the head for 120...if there no vtec im gonna pissed

 

Hurry up and check on it, I'm not sure the best way to do that, but if it is a d16a6 head you got ripped off and you need to get your money back.

 

i woke up the guy that i got it from he has a EG and he got it form his buddy that has Si, cuz he took off the Si head and put on a mugen one. He said he doesnt know alot about Ef's but hes gonna do some research, no matter wut the head is gonna be stronger than me d15 one, but still, i got it with hopes of having vtec if wut you're sayin is true..i want my money back or at least half back and i'll swap it anyways

 

No d series efs had vtec, and def not the d16a6.

I don't see how it'd be any stronger, it's the same exact head, just a different camshaft.

You could get an entire d16a6 engine for 100 bucks. I've seen many people giving them away.

EDIT: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1360901 Check that out, no vtec.

 

yea he just called back sayin it has no vtec...hes sayin i will get better perfromance out of it cuz its from a 1.6 and it has a more agressive camshaft, im gonna keep the head though for a few reason. my vavles need to be adjusted on the stock head, my stock head has 265k on it, Si head only has 120 and i might pick up an intake manifold for the Si so it might be a good addition after all, thanks for lookin out though

 

The 1.6 has nothing to do with it, the camshaft does, but the camshaft is only worth 20 bucks. If you want I know a guy that lives near me who is giving away a low mileage a6 head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmef_sir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cuz he took off the Si head and put on a mugen one.</TD></TR></TABLE>



It should of already been said but don't bother with those Ebay ECU chips that move around engagement points. The only way to make power through the ECU is to get a chip burner and tune it yourself.

And unless you're burning oil, there is no reason to swap the head on the d15b2. Swap the cam and adjust the valves. Or just get your money back...

 

WUT A IDEEOT..U BOT D16A6 HED..U GET RIP OFF MAN..U NEED 2 SMARTN UP ON UR AUTO SKIL..BECUZ U CAN CLEERLY SEE DA VTEC SOLINOD ON A 92-95 SI/EX SOHC VTEC HED..

U SEE DAT THING ALL WAY ON FAR RITE SIDE OF PIC??,,IT SIT BEE-HIND WEER DA DIZZY WOOD BEE.. THAT IS DA VTEC SOLINOD..




IN DIS PIC IT RITE IN FRUNT OF LENS,,WIT DA LITEL WIRE CUMING OFF OF IT..

 

a guy talking jive in caps lock knows more than you. This would be a good point in your life to re-evaluate your decisions.

 

well this is my first car...ive owned it for about 2 months...as for anyone who wants to just some on and insult me instead of just helping...dont fukin say anything. and brikpurt13b...dont ever post anything...ever again

 

he took the head off his Si engine and put on a mugen head, its revs safely to 10K..and it gets there fast too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dseries_ef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he took the head off his Si engine and put on a mugen head, its revs safely to 10K..and it gets there fast too</TD></TR></TABLE>

10k on a SOHC? And since when does mugen even play with SOHC motors?