Block
b18a block w/ARP head & main studs
b18a crank [balanced]
b18c5 oil pump
b16a water pump [22t]
IB spec H Beam Rods
b18a OEM honda bearings
b18a head gasket w/enlarged dowel pin holes
11.5:1 81.5MM Wiseco SuperDuper Pistons
Golden Eagle LSVTEC conv. kit
b18a baffled oil pan and oil pick up (i may switch to GSR girdle, pan and pick up)
b18c1 timing belt & tensioner
b18a lower timing covers

Head
b16a gen1 head w/slight pnp
b16a gen1 cams w/stock gears
b16a obd0 distributor
b16a upper timing belt covers
b16a oem head kit [gaskets]
b16a intake manifold w/hondata im gasket
b18a throttle body
b18a fuel components (rail, injectors, lines, etc...)
b18c5 red "ITR" valve cover

Management
TurboEdit on a PR3
LM-1 Wideband O2 Sensor
possible conversion to OBD1 and use crome or uberdata [street tune w/LM1 wideband w/p28]

over view

This is going in my 1990 Integra sedan.
I just want to make sure the setup I have planned is a decent one.
I'm not a newb, So dont be a dick.
I'm asking for validity. I need to be sure that the setup is going to be decent. Making sure that it will be reliable for a daily driver. Ive decided to actually go with forged internals. I'm getting my rods/pistons from IBSpec. So, give me some insight, let me know what you think or if you have any other suggestion.


Modified by 4sd4dr at 3:23 AM 5/17/2006

 

was the block shaved?
did you upgraded the injectors to 310cc?
what tranny?
are you running peg legged?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.beeks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">was the block shaved?
did you upgraded the injectors to 310cc?
what tranny?
are you running peg legged?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. Was the block shaved for what? You mean decked, not yet but it will be.
2. Why? There's no need for 310's, yet at least not IMO.
3. Stock LS w/Kaiten Flywheel and Exedy stage 1. But, what does it matter? It isnt going to effect the reliability of my engine.
4. What is 'peg legged'?

 

well dont forget that the height of the block changes the timming possition on it..
suggest some adjustable cam gears
fuel delivery is very important so you dont blow up cyl 1
tranny question was short or long gears...
peg legged means if you that the diff being stock or lsd...

 

I think your plans/set up looks good enough. Honestly, I dont know all the pro's and con's when doing an lsvtec set up, but I'd recommend also posting this in the hybrid forum. You might get better feedback from lsvtec owners there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iH8RICERZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think your plans/set up looks good enough. Honestly, I dont know all the pro's and con's when doing an lsvtec set up, but I'd recommend also posting this in the hybrid forum. You might get better feedback from lsvtec owners there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

good point, i didnt even see that forum.

 

the b18a timing cover wont work on taht type r oil pump. u will need a lower timing cover from an obd2 b-series car. and the only way the other 2 pieces are gunna fit is with some modifications which looks like poop. an di alos recomend atleast 310's i had a similar set-up and stock injectors were 13hp less than my 310's. dont forget a block guard.

 

get something other that B16A gen 1 cams if you can. they are the smallest of the B-VTEC cams.

 

Right now, im not worried about the cams. Serisouly. I'm not out to make a load of power, just want to get it straightened out and not miss any small ****.

I know the gen1 B16 cams suck, but Im not worried about that.

 

i gunna guess about 170hp at the wheels give or take 10hp. with a set of stage 2 cams ice say more like 200hp at the wheels. just a guess compared to my old motor. GL with the build

 

not worried about performance but thank you everyone for the heads up on power and ****. but, reliability is more important at this point.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4sd4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not worried about performance but thank you everyone for the heads up on power and ****. but, reliability is more important at this point.</TD></TR></TABLE>


so then why are u building a motor in the 1st place if u just want reliability??

buy a b16, drop it in, dont worry about it. there. reliable. i solved you problem, what do i win??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Have an STD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


so then why are u building a motor in the 1st place if u just want reliability??

buy a b16, drop it in, dont worry about it. there. reliable. i solved you problem, what do i win??</TD></TR></TABLE>

not a damn thing becuase your post was worthless. and, I wnat to make this build RELIABLE. smart guy.

 

looks good brian. the only thing i would suggest is going with a little bit larger injectors so you won't have to run as much fuel pressure to get it tuned correctly. you don't want to use too much of your injector. i suggest 390's from a DSM. i have a set for cheap if you want me to ship them to you. they were extras from my first turbo project

edit: oh, and get the cam gears just to be safe

 

Just curious, if he uses those stock cams and only makes around 170 hp, why would he need upgraded injectors? Doesn't the Type R use the same 240 cc injectors and makes upward of 190 hp? I am asking ?'s not stating fact.

So it would be ok to stick with the stock injectors until he upgrades his cams, then his fuel requirements will require larger injectors, right?

 

it just depends on fuel pressure. it depends on how many RPM's he plans to spin as well. i always overshoot on injector size just to be safe. you just have to be careful because the bigger you go, the less "resonsive" they are so to speak

 

i'm running almost the same setup with stock injectors making 180whp. stock head and a mildly built bottom. stocks'll work. also, i rev up to 8100 almost 3-4 times a day on this daily driver. it's damn reliable... and a ITR eater (stock).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ernald711 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm running almost the same setup with stock injectors making 180whp. stock head and a mildly built bottom. stocks'll work. also, i rev up to 8100 almost 3-4 times a day on this daily driver. it's damn reliable... and a ITR eater (stock). </TD></TR></TABLE>

Awesome man, thanks for the input.

Im hoping all goes well, Im afraid of bearings and ****.

 

Get a gsr fuel pump..The dohc nonvtec,sohc,and sohc vtec fuel pumps flow only 79lph..Dohc vtec fuel pumps flow 134lph..I found out my B16a was running lean in the upper rpm via wideband o2 with the stock 79lph fuel pump in my 89 crx..So give that a though..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.speaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a gsr fuel pump..The dohc nonvtec,sohc,and sohc vtec fuel pumps flow only 79lph..Dohc vtec fuel pumps flow 134lph..I found out my B16a was running lean in the upper rpm via wideband o2 with the stock 79lph fuel pump in my 89 crx..So give that a though..</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, i actually have a gsr fuel pump from a 97. not sure if it will work in my obd0 integra, but i guess well see, uh?

thanks for hte heads up.

 

you shouldnt have to shave the rods... in fact i know u dont. ive put pr3's on 2 sets of ls rods...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSTEG96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you shouldnt have to shave the rods... in fact i know u dont. ive put pr3's on 2 sets of ls rods... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Right, I think someone said that earlier in the thread, but thanks for clearifying it for me. I was sorta wondering if you had to or not, since on G2IC people are saying you do. But, if you have personal experience, ****, thats all I need.

Any more input?

 

LS rods may not be the best choice if youre going to rev 7500+ and want reliability here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSracing94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS rods may not be the best choice if youre going to rev 7500+ and want reliability here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ive read the rods arent the problem..its the tiny rod bolts..and i didnt see arp rod bolts in your build, so i suggest getting those...

also, if you convert to obd1, my good friend is using neptune w/ good results if you can find a tuner in your area...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ive read the rods arent the problem..its the tiny rod bolts..and i didnt see arp rod bolts in your build, so i suggest getting those...

also, if you convert to obd1, my good friend is using neptune w/ good results if you can find a tuner in your area...</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for clearing the up nickG.