Yeah, so about a month ago I was driving home after it had been raining and I turned off of the main road where I live onto a side road that goes back to a grocery store, shopping center, other buildings, etc and in the middle of the turn I hit mud from new construction that must have happened THAT DAY because the day before it was fine, slid on the mud, and slammed the right side wheels (front and then rear) against the brand new concrete curb.

I ruined the front lower control arms, rear lower control arm, front right brake rotor, front lower ball joint, driver side steering arm ball joint, scuffed both rims pretty bad, and during the fix I ruined the right front caliper.

Soooo, that is why I haven't been online in a long time and/or been posting in a long time.

Now on with the pics!

Here are the pictures of the damage:




It's a good thing I bought all new shocks because whatever d!ckface owned the car before me that put on the RSR springs tightened the rear passenger lower bolt tightened it SO hard that it rounded over the bolt and we could not get it off (heated it up, broke 2 14mm sockets on it, actually picked up the rear of the car with a breaker bar and an extension, etc). I had to cut the bottom of the shock off in order to get the old shock off.

Here's a pic of the rear new shock and cleaned up RSR spring:



The old and new front rotors:



A shot of the rear finished:



Front finished:



Rotors installed on car:



And a few pics of the car after being washed today (its first day on the road in over a month due to the gathering of parts and working through previous owners mistakes - but it all turned out finally)

 

great to see it back on the road

 

Thanks man! I almost forgot how to drive . I've been riding my sport bike in the warm/cold/sunny/rain/whatever weather for the past month so it's nice to have a car again.

 

about time to upgrade that puny 14mm swaybar too

 

upgrade to 21 or 22mm rear sway bar

 

This car is for audio, not performance (stock LS motor, etc), so a sway bar is the least of my worries.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Electrodynamic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This car is for audio, not performance (stock LS motor, etc), so a sway bar is the least of my worries. </TD></TR></TABLE>

im not a big audio fan, but since you are, lets see the setup

 

The fiberglassing of the rear will be complete within a month so right now I just have a box in the back with two of my 12's in it. Oh yeah, my rear seat is gone to make room for the temp. amp install. When it's all done one amp and the 'glassed subs are going to be in the hatch and the Olympus will be inverse mounted under some plexi where the bottom of the rear seat used to be.

Here's a pic of the amps I have with one of my 12's:



I've got two of my SI Mag 12's in a common-chamber 3 cube sealed box, the XX Olympus (2 x 400 RMS into 4 Ohm) and the XX Colossus (3200 watts RMS), Koda components up front and an 8 volt Eclipse HU.


Modified by Electrodynamic at 5:41 AM 1/16/2006

 

I just went through pretty much the same thing only the only thing I HAD to replace was the LCA in the rear. I decided to upgrade to some TEIN Super Streets anyway though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Electrodynamic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When it's all done one amp and the 'glassed subs are going to be in the hatch and the Olympus will be inverse mounted under some plexi where the bottom of the rear seat used to be.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

keep us updated man...i dont see too many audio setups anymore

 

Those were mine after my issue with the curb.

 

That sucks man. Could have been worse. Curious...why did you install cross drilled/slotted rotors?

 

Because they were less expensive than stock rotors and look a lot better. Overkill for a street driven car that's not fast at all, but oh well.

 

damn nice 5-lug and everything. nice recovery.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teggysue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn nice 5-lug and everything. nice recovery.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not 5 lug.

 

serious DIY repair work. F**k auto body / collision shops. Nicely done

 

Thats freakin awesome dude How much was it overall for the installation of the new rotors and all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Electrodynamic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks man! I almost forgot how to drive . I've been riding my sport bike in the warm/cold/sunny/rain/whatever weather for the past month so it's nice to have a car again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i saw that in the backround. what is it? just wondering. a honda i hope

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Electrodynamic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's a good thing I bought all new shocks because whatever d!ckface owned the car before me that put on the RSR springs tightened the rear passenger lower bolt tightened it SO hard that it rounded over the bolt and we could not get it off (heated it up, broke 2 14mm sockets on it, actually picked up the rear of the car with a breaker bar and an extension, etc). I had to cut the bottom of the shock off in order to get the old shock off.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Almost all honda's have that problem in the rear. It doesn't mean the previous owner tightened the bolts too much. I had to cut my stock struts too when I put my suspension on. When we pressed the bolts out of the LCA they were totally warped. Happens to everyone, stock or not.

Back on subject, car looks good

 

Looks real nice, perfect ride height.

However those appear to be KYB GR-2 shocks, yes? I would have gone with better shocks if it were me. With the car that low, those shocks are going to be gone pretty soon. I give them 6 months to a year.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by microsoft_sux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Those were mine after my issue with the curb.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What's wrong with the stock one? It's supposed to be bent like that.

 

Nice work .... hey was it hard to install the front rotors????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not 5 lug.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol opps i counted 5 holes at first my bad. still a nice car thou

 

Haha, as pointed out it's a 4 lug. The rotors weren't hard to install at all. Just make sure to use an impact driver on the two phillips screws/holders when installing them or the rotor will wobble pretty bad. Taking the rotor off on a teggy is easy though - remove rim, then remove caliper (twin 17mm bolts on the back), remove the phillips screws with an impact driver and the rotor pops off.

Yep, the shocks are GR-2's. The car doesn't get driven much and it rides a LOT better than it did with the stock shocks so I'm super pleased.

As for the rear shock bolt...I doubt they come from the factory rounded over. Doesn't matter though, I got 'er done!! (redneck comedy)

And yessiree I have a '95 CBR 600, all white, no decals, and a few go-fast parts. It's stupid-fast and gets 40-50 mpg depending on how I ride it. I really really really like it (even though the new sport bikes are beyond insanely fast ... speaking of which, do you guys know that the new R6 has a 20,000 RPM tach and redlines at 17,500?!?! Crazy!)

I performed all of the work except having new ball joints pressed into the front spindles, which was $40 labor. Other than that, I didn't spend anything else on labor.

Thanks for the replies people!