HX wheels on a 98 EX?
EDIT:
I had to buy a set of wheel spacers from the local auto parts store this week because my hx wheels wouldn't clear my ex front brake calipers. They're the UNIVERSAL Mr. Gasket - Wheel Spacer, 1/4'' Thick (about 6mm), Fits 4-''4.25'', 4-Lug Bolt Pattern...they did the trick for me. Plenty of clearance and no need for extended studs. $23.00 at O'Reily Auto Parts.
Here they are at JEGS: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs...18581
Modified by gabebauman at 9:21 AM 12/24/2005
I had to buy a set of wheel spacers from the local auto parts store this week because my hx wheels wouldn't clear my ex front brake calipers. They're the UNIVERSAL Mr. Gasket - Wheel Spacer, 1/4'' Thick (about 6mm), Fits 4-''4.25'', 4-Lug Bolt Pattern...they did the trick for me. Plenty of clearance and no need for extended studs. $23.00 at O'Reily Auto Parts.
Here they are at JEGS: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs...18581
Modified by gabebauman at 9:21 AM 12/24/2005
I think I'll just end up getting some Mr. Gasket 1/4in spacers from one of the local autoparts stores.
Anybody have anymore imput for me? Any hx wheel owners with HUGE oem ex front brakes?...LOL.
Anybody have anymore imput for me? Any hx wheel owners with HUGE oem ex front brakes?...LOL.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gabebauman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
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thats a clean *** coupe
</TD></TR></TABLE>thats a clean *** coupe
I just was wondering... with spacers it would affect your OFFSET...
Is that a good or bad thing?
1) Pros for using a wheel spacer is not having to grind down my gsr calipers but what are the cons on handling and tire were with the wheel spacers?
2) what is the min "mm" i need to get for clearance?
3) any issues with hard braking and using wheel spacers?
Is that a good or bad thing?
1) Pros for using a wheel spacer is not having to grind down my gsr calipers but what are the cons on handling and tire were with the wheel spacers?
2) what is the min "mm" i need to get for clearance?
3) any issues with hard braking and using wheel spacers?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just was wondering... with spacers it would affect your OFFSET...
Is that a good or bad thing?
1) Pros for using a wheel spacer is not having to grind down my gsr calipers but what are the cons on handling and tire were with the wheel spacers?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Metal on a brake caliper is there for a reason, I never understood why people want bigger brakes on their car just so they can grind it down and lose some of the strength of the brake set up.
The offset will change by the amount of your spacer, in your case I think you said 6mm. This does not affect wear nor handling realy. The middle of your tire will change location in realtion to all the other suspension geometries, such as the dave point....etc. However it will only be by 6mm which is not much.
It really depends on the offset of your current rims. The biggest probem encountered with running a bigger offset is wheel bearing wear. The more your tire stick out the quicker your bearings will die. At some point you will also start rubbing, again depending on current rim offset, tire size, and what car you have.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2) what is the min "mm" i need to get for clearance?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know, I thought you were going with 6mm, maybe I am confused due to all the different posters and the editing of posts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3) any issues with hard braking and using wheel spacers?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You will hear all sorts of stories about wheels flying off and what not. Depends on the type and quality of the spacer. The installation also as it will probably require longer lugs.
Is that a good or bad thing?
1) Pros for using a wheel spacer is not having to grind down my gsr calipers but what are the cons on handling and tire were with the wheel spacers?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Metal on a brake caliper is there for a reason, I never understood why people want bigger brakes on their car just so they can grind it down and lose some of the strength of the brake set up.
The offset will change by the amount of your spacer, in your case I think you said 6mm. This does not affect wear nor handling realy. The middle of your tire will change location in realtion to all the other suspension geometries, such as the dave point....etc. However it will only be by 6mm which is not much.
It really depends on the offset of your current rims. The biggest probem encountered with running a bigger offset is wheel bearing wear. The more your tire stick out the quicker your bearings will die. At some point you will also start rubbing, again depending on current rim offset, tire size, and what car you have.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2) what is the min "mm" i need to get for clearance?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know, I thought you were going with 6mm, maybe I am confused due to all the different posters and the editing of posts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3) any issues with hard braking and using wheel spacers?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You will hear all sorts of stories about wheels flying off and what not. Depends on the type and quality of the spacer. The installation also as it will probably require longer lugs.
im using washers on each stud to clear the brakes. Im sure someone here will have a problem with that, but it works for me, and only cost my friend about $2.00 for the 8 washers...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90civichb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im using washers on each stud to clear the brakes. Im sure someone here will have a problem with that, but it works for me, and only cost my friend about $2.00 for the 8 washers...
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</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
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Whats with that? Explain your reply. This method has worked fine, a wheel spacer will be the same effect with a higher price tag. Feel free to correct me, otherwise don't post stupid smiley faces with no response. Thanks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Whats with that? Explain your reply. This method has worked fine, a wheel spacer will be the same effect with a higher price tag. Feel free to correct me, otherwise don't post stupid smiley faces with no response. Thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90civichb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Whats with that? Explain your reply. This method has worked fine, a wheel spacer will be the same effect with a higher price tag. Feel free to correct me, otherwise don't post stupid smiley faces with no response. Thanks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well I am not overly sure, that's what the face was for. Spacers are nice flat things, washers are not flat. One side has raised edges, this has been known to creat stress concentrations (usually only a problem with bolts though) Also spacers have a much larger area, this allows the force to be more evenly distributed, The wider spacers will prevent (to some small extent) bending of the wheel relative to the hub. But again, I am not overly sure as to how much of an effect this will have, cars are designed with large factors of safety and like you said it works..............for now.
Oh, and make sure you check this, washers are not all of equal thickness, I have had this problem before at work. Washers are stamped out from sheet steel, sheet steel has some loose tolerances, especially when dealing with different manufacturers. I have had to start sorting out a bad of washers (brand new from a supplier) because some were twice as thick as others and the rest were somewhere in the middle. So be careful.
Don't get me wrong, I am not a big fan of spacers either, I have my doubts about them and their safety but nothing to back up that doubt.
So in conclusion the
was because I have my doubts about the safety of your set up but I am not overly sure, but like you said they are working for you so far.
Cheers
Whats with that? Explain your reply. This method has worked fine, a wheel spacer will be the same effect with a higher price tag. Feel free to correct me, otherwise don't post stupid smiley faces with no response. Thanks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Well I am not overly sure, that's what the face was for. Spacers are nice flat things, washers are not flat. One side has raised edges, this has been known to creat stress concentrations (usually only a problem with bolts though) Also spacers have a much larger area, this allows the force to be more evenly distributed, The wider spacers will prevent (to some small extent) bending of the wheel relative to the hub. But again, I am not overly sure as to how much of an effect this will have, cars are designed with large factors of safety and like you said it works..............for now.
Oh, and make sure you check this, washers are not all of equal thickness, I have had this problem before at work. Washers are stamped out from sheet steel, sheet steel has some loose tolerances, especially when dealing with different manufacturers. I have had to start sorting out a bad of washers (brand new from a supplier) because some were twice as thick as others and the rest were somewhere in the middle. So be careful.
Don't get me wrong, I am not a big fan of spacers either, I have my doubts about them and their safety but nothing to back up that doubt.
So in conclusion the
was because I have my doubts about the safety of your set up but I am not overly sure, but like you said they are working for you so far.Cheers
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gabebauman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only thing I notice is a slight wheel shudder at about 80+ mph.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would be very worried about that. Part of the problem with spacers is that they can move the wheel out from the hub, so that the center bore (that's the big hole in the very center of the wheel) no longer fits over the hub. That means that the entire weight and centering of the wheel is supported by only the lugs, and not the hub itself. This can cause the wheels to be ever so slightly off-center, which can cause vibration (as you are experiencing) which can, in turn, cause uneven wear of the tire, loosening of the lugs, etc. Some people do it and don't experience any problems, but enough run into problems that it's a risk.
Matt (old man neri) mentioned longer studs (lugs), and this is something to consider as well. It's essential that you have enough threads on the lugs to keep the wheels on securely. A good rule of thumb is that you need at least 6.5 to 7.0 full turns on the lug nuts. If you don't have that, then you should get extended studs to replace the stock ones. Unless you are using open-end lug nuts, make sure you get the precise length you need; if you get ones that are too long, they won't hold the wheel on securely.
I would be very worried about that. Part of the problem with spacers is that they can move the wheel out from the hub, so that the center bore (that's the big hole in the very center of the wheel) no longer fits over the hub. That means that the entire weight and centering of the wheel is supported by only the lugs, and not the hub itself. This can cause the wheels to be ever so slightly off-center, which can cause vibration (as you are experiencing) which can, in turn, cause uneven wear of the tire, loosening of the lugs, etc. Some people do it and don't experience any problems, but enough run into problems that it's a risk.
Matt (old man neri) mentioned longer studs (lugs), and this is something to consider as well. It's essential that you have enough threads on the lugs to keep the wheels on securely. A good rule of thumb is that you need at least 6.5 to 7.0 full turns on the lug nuts. If you don't have that, then you should get extended studs to replace the stock ones. Unless you are using open-end lug nuts, make sure you get the precise length you need; if you get ones that are too long, they won't hold the wheel on securely.
I've been checking my lugnuts once a week because I was worried about this. They have not loosened one bit. I also made sure that I was able to get 6-7 revolutions of lug onto the studs. The lugs are torqued at oem specs of 80lbs/sqft also. Is there anyway for me to cure the wheel shudder I'm experiencing?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gabebauman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Is there anyway for me to cure the wheel shudder I'm experiencing?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it's caused by by the wheel being off center then it will be very hard. However it may be that the wheel you put on their are not properly balanced or you lost a wieght. How long ago were these tires mounted. Do you know for certain they are properly blanced? Bit of a long shot.
If it's caused by by the wheel being off center then it will be very hard. However it may be that the wheel you put on their are not properly balanced or you lost a wieght. How long ago were these tires mounted. Do you know for certain they are properly blanced? Bit of a long shot.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">However it may be that the wheel you put on their are not properly balanced or you lost a wieght. How long ago were these tires mounted. Do you know for certain they are properly blanced? Bit of a long shot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's a good question. I baught these wheels/tires in December and was planning on getting a couple new tires for them. Maybe I'll get them soon, and have them re-balance all four while I'm at it. Does anybody know if the HX wheels can be balanced using the sticky weights on the inside of the rim instead of the horrid lip mounted weights?
Thanks fellas.
That's a good question. I baught these wheels/tires in December and was planning on getting a couple new tires for them. Maybe I'll get them soon, and have them re-balance all four while I'm at it. Does anybody know if the HX wheels can be balanced using the sticky weights on the inside of the rim instead of the horrid lip mounted weights?
Thanks fellas.
Just got a couple new tires this morning, had them balance all four tires, put them back on my car...no more wheel shake at high speed. Must have had something to do with improper balancing or old tires.
Thanks for everyone's imput.
Thanks for everyone's imput.
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