Hey guys,

I'm debating selling my Aeromotive FPR 13109 and just going with the Aeromotive rail mounted FPR 13115/13116. However I wanted to know if the 13109 had any advantages over the 13115/116 other then being able to put it anywhere in the engine bay. My engine bay is kinda cramped and there's not a lot of places I can fit it in my CRX's engine bay. My other concern was fuel flow...is the rail mounted FPR at a disadvantage with the O ring/FPR bolted to rail setup? I was thinking that since the lines on the remote FPR go right from rail to FPR then it would be better cause there is less chance of a leak. With the FPR directly to the rail I'm worried about the fuel leaking past the o-ring. Or is that something that I shouldn't even worry about since I'm gonna be running 30-40 psi of fuel pressure and up to about 20 psi of boost?

So what do you guys think? what kind of FPR setup are you high HP, high boost guys running? rail mounted or remote mounted FPR?

TIA

 

Not running yet but i use a rail mounted 13109 edelbrock fuel rail and manifold.

 

The viton o-rings are really good at sealing. Just make sure that they are installed correctly. Like anything else on the car, if it is installed incorrectly, it isn't going to work very well. You should not ave any problems. Also remember you want to try and match the fuel pump and regulator. Here is a pic of mine.

Good luck,

Jason

 

I was thinking about mounting my 13109 to an Edelbrock fuel rail kinda like how you guys have it. However I would need an -8AN o-ring boss to -6AN o-ring boss. I haven't seen anything like this, but I have thought about using a -6AN to -8AN reducer. Then just putting a -6AN o-ring and -8AN o-ring on the ends of the reducer. But I dont know if that would work cause I dont know if the AN o-ring boss male end is different from a regular AN male end (aside from having an o-ring).

 

YOu need to run a female swivel coupler between the FPR and the fuel rail. You just need to have both the rail and fpr with male outlets and joint them two with the female swivel coupler.



Let me know if you need any of them...

Blue Shadow,

There's no such thing as -6 to -8 O-ring boss on both side. I modifiy our kit with Viton O-ring.

Stan

 

Stan,

That's the other option I was looking at, however with a setup like the one in your pic i'm afraid there wont be any room cause of my CRX's inner fender. The closest thing I've been able to find to a AN ORB to AN ORB is the magnaflow couplers, but I only saw them in -10 an ORB and 12 AN ORB with no reducers.

 

The female swivel coupler doesn't come in transitional size. We keep -6, -8 and -10 in stock. You need to run -6 O-ring boss to -8An on the FPR side and -8An o-ring boss to -8 An on the fuel rail. Then you can use the female swivel coupler to connect them

stan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The female swivel coupler doesn't come in transitional size. We keep -6, -8 and -10 in stock. You need to run -6 O-ring boss to -8An on the FPR side and -8An o-ring boss to -8 An on the fuel rail. Then you can use the female swivel coupler to connect them

stan</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know, that's what I was talking about running a -6AN ORB to -8AN and -8AN ORB to -8AN for the fuel rail and running a female coupler. With this setup though I dont think it will fit cause my engine bay is so cramped.

 

Hey again guys,

Here is an e-mail I just wrote to Aeromotive tech support. I wanted to know what you guys thought.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a question about what kind of fitting I can use between my 13109 FPR and fuel rail. I have a fuel rail that has an -8AN o-ring boss and the FPR I have has a -6AN o-ring boss port. I'm trying to connect the FPR to the fuel rail trying to keep the coupler lengths as short as possible. I was wondering if a -8AN ORB to -6AN (non ORB) fitting would work? I was thinking that I can put the -8AN ORB into the fuel rail and on the -6AN side I would put a -6AN o-ring and screw this into the FPR. Would the tapered end of the -6AN fting cause that connection to leak even though there is a -6AN o-ring in place? I figured the -6AN side should be ok since fuel is only coming out of it and not flowing into it. So I think the straight cut AN o-ring boss with the funneled inner portion isn't really necessary, it's only needed for the transition from the fuel rail to FPR to drain</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

The problem with doing it like that is that you can't position the regulator how you want. It might work, it might not. You have to tighten it until it's tight to get the orings to seal right, but what if the outlet is facing up when that happens? lol

The way stan shows it is the right way to do it, if you're going to put it on the rail. You can put it on the pass side like stans pick and feed the fuel from the drivers side if you need to, for clearance. The best way is to mount the regulator on the firewall or something, and run a line to it. That way there's no weight on the end of a fitting that could break.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The problem with doing it like that is that you can't position the regulator how you want. It might work, it might not. You have to tighten it until it's tight to get the orings to seal right, but what if the outlet is facing up when that happens? lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>

hehehe, that's exactly what I was thinking too. I was like hmm, it would suck if I tightened it all the way down and my drain line and gauge were facing the wrong way. Do they make -8AN ORB to female AN adapters? If I can get one of these instead of the setup Stan posted it would shorten the whole adapter length.

(FPR side) -6an o-ring // -6an to -6an adapter // -6an female swivel to -8an o-ring boss // -8an o-ring // (fuel rail)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The way stan shows it is the right way to do it, if you're going to put it on the rail. You can put it on the pass side like stans pick and feed the fuel from the drivers side if you need to, for clearance. The best way is to mount the regulator on the firewall or something, and run a line to it. That way there's no weight on the end of a fitting that could break.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yah I noticed that too...i was all isn't that the TB right behind the FPR? **scratches head** I'll have to look into something like that too.

 

I think Earl's has a -8 male to -8 female that you could put in the rail, and then a -6 to -8 on the regulator.

 

cool, thanks tony1 I'll loo around on summit and bakerprecision to see if I can find it.

 

Here is my rail mounted oem fit aeromotive regulator..Basic direct bolt on...Just be careful of the line fitting plugs if not used mine came loose and was slowly leaking fuel onto my intake manifold...Problem fixed but scary thought i drove like that for a bit cuz i couldnt see the leak...but i could smell it...Regulator works great though.

 

Does anyone know what the negative effects of not running the injector pulse dampner are?

 

i currently have mine bolted directly to the fuel rail and it turned out facing the right way. although my strut bar doesn't fit now, but small details.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .nate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone know what the negative effects of not running the injector pulse dampner are?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont think there are any noticeable performance losses. As the name implies it dampens pulsations in the fuel flow. From what I've heard when you dont run one the first thing you notice is the extra noise coming from the engine bay.

 

Yes I do believe it helps quiet the ticking of the injectors as well...

 

We have the -8Female to -6 male in stock, non swivel though !

You can also use the female swivel coupler as well

stan

 

80884 Looking at the pix, i think your feul return line coming off the aeromotive might hit your belt. Or is it all good now? Looks like it would be a close call.

 

It does look like that in the picture. The outlet of the fpr is actually about 1" maybe a little more, to the inside of the belt. So the return line will be no problem.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The problem with doing it like that is that you can't position the regulator how you want. It might work, it might not. You have to tighten it until it's tight to get the orings to seal right, but what if the outlet is facing up when that happens? lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well then you need to get the swivel , trial and error. Mine just happened to end up like that fully tightened.
I did a similar thing with my sump/filter/pump. Mounting plate of the pump was not 100% inline with the bottom of the floor but thats an easy fix since you can rotate the housing on the fuel pump.