My own fuel pump kill switch write up. (improved in my opinion)
**Alright first off I must say I am not held liable for any problems coming from following the steps in this write-up.**
Alright, When I started doing my research on fuel pump kill switches I found a Lot of helpful information. But, Alot of the diagrams I found had flaws (in my opinion).
Some of the best information I found came from:
http://members.***.net/shaundr....html
I learned a lot of good stuff from that site that lead to the ideas I emplemented in my own design.
Things you will need.
12VDC/30A SPST Auto Relay (275-226 at radioshack)
Auto Rocker Switch (275-730 at radioshack)
Electrical Tape (gods gift to man)
Some Butt Connectors 14, 18 gauge
Crimp-On Quick Disconnects Female 14 gauge
Large Diameter Ring Terminal
14 gauge wire (get more then you need, I had to make many trips back to get more)
Lots of zip-ties
First locate the power wire for the fuel pump. On G3 integras, the power wire can be found behind the driver side kick-panel. it is yellow/green, please look closely though! there are two yellow/green wires, one larger then the other. The larger is your fuel pump power wire, the other is your antenna motor power wire.
Now that we have our wire located we need a wiring diagram. Here is the one I cooked up after much research.

Just in case you didn't already know. With this relay when power is supplied through pegs 86 and 85, an internal connection allows power to flow through 87 to 30 or vise-versa.
Let me explain a little about why I wired mine like I did. The reason I decided to use the Factory Power wire hooked up to 87 and 30 on the relay instead of how it was described in the website I mentioned above, is because if the relay were to seize up, You wouldn't be able to turn your fuel pump off
. So the way I have it set up, if the relay were to seize Your fuel pump would still shut off when the car is shut off as it would if you had never done this mod.
Also I chose to use a 12v key-on but that is optional. you can use a constant 12v but I though it would be better to use a key-on so that if you did forget to flip the switch before getting out of your car at night (or when ever), The relay would shut off there by saving some of the life of the relay. Your choice, should work either way.
The main thing here guys (and girls) is to be sneaky! make sure you hide the relay as well as the button. you don't want the thief to find the relay and hot wire the fuel pump to work again.
Please read the before mentioned website, it has a lot of good resorces. Thanks.
Modified by Nataku at 9:51 PM 12/30/2007
Alright, When I started doing my research on fuel pump kill switches I found a Lot of helpful information. But, Alot of the diagrams I found had flaws (in my opinion).
Some of the best information I found came from:
http://members.***.net/shaundr....html
I learned a lot of good stuff from that site that lead to the ideas I emplemented in my own design.
Things you will need.
12VDC/30A SPST Auto Relay (275-226 at radioshack)
Auto Rocker Switch (275-730 at radioshack)
Electrical Tape (gods gift to man)
Some Butt Connectors 14, 18 gauge
Crimp-On Quick Disconnects Female 14 gauge
Large Diameter Ring Terminal
14 gauge wire (get more then you need, I had to make many trips back to get more)
Lots of zip-ties
First locate the power wire for the fuel pump. On G3 integras, the power wire can be found behind the driver side kick-panel. it is yellow/green, please look closely though! there are two yellow/green wires, one larger then the other. The larger is your fuel pump power wire, the other is your antenna motor power wire.
Now that we have our wire located we need a wiring diagram. Here is the one I cooked up after much research.

Just in case you didn't already know. With this relay when power is supplied through pegs 86 and 85, an internal connection allows power to flow through 87 to 30 or vise-versa.
Let me explain a little about why I wired mine like I did. The reason I decided to use the Factory Power wire hooked up to 87 and 30 on the relay instead of how it was described in the website I mentioned above, is because if the relay were to seize up, You wouldn't be able to turn your fuel pump off
. So the way I have it set up, if the relay were to seize Your fuel pump would still shut off when the car is shut off as it would if you had never done this mod.Also I chose to use a 12v key-on but that is optional. you can use a constant 12v but I though it would be better to use a key-on so that if you did forget to flip the switch before getting out of your car at night (or when ever), The relay would shut off there by saving some of the life of the relay. Your choice, should work either way.
The main thing here guys (and girls) is to be sneaky! make sure you hide the relay as well as the button. you don't want the thief to find the relay and hot wire the fuel pump to work again.
Please read the before mentioned website, it has a lot of good resorces. Thanks.
Modified by Nataku at 9:51 PM 12/30/2007
That is one of the best ways I've thought of doing it
The only problem I see is your reasoning (unless I read it wrong, but im not trying to flame just some constructive criticism)
If the relay were to sieze, all you would have too do is take the key off and no power would be supplied through the fuel pump wire (fuel pump wire gets +12V when key is in ign, from what i believe right?)
So in my opinion, i would have cut the fuel pump wire and wired each end to 87a and 30 but leaving everything else the same as your diagram.
That way, with the switch ON (connected), your relay would ONLY draw power when trying to crank or put it IGN => and therefore the fuel pump wire would be disconnected when trying to crank and when the key is in IGN.
This solves the problem of a relay drawing too much current and draining your battery as well as your relay failing during normal driving and you are stranded off the road.
Modified by EGPrelude at 10:26 PM 10/27/2005
The only problem I see is your reasoning (unless I read it wrong, but im not trying to flame just some constructive criticism)
If the relay were to sieze, all you would have too do is take the key off and no power would be supplied through the fuel pump wire (fuel pump wire gets +12V when key is in ign, from what i believe right?)
So in my opinion, i would have cut the fuel pump wire and wired each end to 87a and 30 but leaving everything else the same as your diagram.
That way, with the switch ON (connected), your relay would ONLY draw power when trying to crank or put it IGN => and therefore the fuel pump wire would be disconnected when trying to crank and when the key is in IGN.
This solves the problem of a relay drawing too much current and draining your battery as well as your relay failing during normal driving and you are stranded off the road.
Modified by EGPrelude at 10:26 PM 10/27/2005
87a us a N/C circuit, whereas 87 is a N/O circuit and is connected when you power 86 and 85.
The reason you dont have the 87a is because you got an SPST relay. you need to get an SPDT relay for that terminal
The reason you dont have the 87a is because you got an SPST relay. you need to get an SPDT relay for that terminal
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not sure... wouldn't surprise me though... the website i refferenced on the first post has a "where are wires on your car" or something like that link.
I'm pretty sure it's solid yellow on the EG. I'll have to check my own site to be sure. It's on my wire color chart for that car.
That's a beautiful diagram putting mine to shame. However, a relay usually isn't necessary. You can put the switch directly on the fuel pump power wire, and extend (within reason) each end of the fuel pump power to the switch using the same gauge wire.
There are a couple of setups that warrant that relay. One is if you need to extend the wire more than a couple feet to reach your hidden switch. Another instance is if you wanted to use a lower rated switch. You could also loop the dash side of the fuel pump power wire from 87 to 86, and put the switch on the ground side between the relay and the ring terminal.
The only reason for the diagram I had with the relay and constant 12V setup was purely to justify the relay. I mention that in the writeup but I must not have been clear, so on the new site I don't include it at all cuz it's just confusing.
The site has moved to http://www.vsracing.net/~suspended
If you have any free time on your hands, I'd love to give you full credit for replacing my ugly *** diagrams. Eyesore, ouch!
Modified by suspendedHatch at 1:01 AM 11/5/2005
That's a beautiful diagram putting mine to shame. However, a relay usually isn't necessary. You can put the switch directly on the fuel pump power wire, and extend (within reason) each end of the fuel pump power to the switch using the same gauge wire.
There are a couple of setups that warrant that relay. One is if you need to extend the wire more than a couple feet to reach your hidden switch. Another instance is if you wanted to use a lower rated switch. You could also loop the dash side of the fuel pump power wire from 87 to 86, and put the switch on the ground side between the relay and the ring terminal.
The only reason for the diagram I had with the relay and constant 12V setup was purely to justify the relay. I mention that in the writeup but I must not have been clear, so on the new site I don't include it at all cuz it's just confusing.
The site has moved to http://www.vsracing.net/~suspended
If you have any free time on your hands, I'd love to give you full credit for replacing my ugly *** diagrams. Eyesore, ouch!
Modified by suspendedHatch at 1:01 AM 11/5/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">\
There are a couple of setups that warrant that relay. One is if you need to extend the wire more than a couple feet to reach your hidden switch. Another instance is if you wanted to use a lower rated switch. You could also loop the dash side of the fuel pump power wire from 87 to 86, and put the switch on the ground side between the relay and the ring terminal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I ran Whole new wire for the pump folowing your tutorial. That's why I used relays. The cable is a lot longer now that it has be relocated.
There are a couple of setups that warrant that relay. One is if you need to extend the wire more than a couple feet to reach your hidden switch. Another instance is if you wanted to use a lower rated switch. You could also loop the dash side of the fuel pump power wire from 87 to 86, and put the switch on the ground side between the relay and the ring terminal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I ran Whole new wire for the pump folowing your tutorial. That's why I used relays. The cable is a lot longer now that it has be relocated.
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