Alright well i have a 2000 Honda Civic Si, i installed a jdm B16 not too long ago because my last motor went out on me. After about 2000 miles on my freshly rebuild motor the car started to idle low, so i tried to make adjustments to the throttle cable and the little screw on the throttle body. After that the car idles at like 800 or so, but when i push the clutch in the RPM's drop drastically. It even stalls sometimes, i'd say about half the time. Also ive noticed sometimes when im shifting the clutch pedal goes straight to the floor as if i lost pressure, and its hard to get the car out of gear. After i pump the clutch a few times it seems to get pressure again. Another thing is when i start the car i have to give it gas for it to stay running, then after its been running for a while, it will idle normal. I checked for vaccum leaks with carb cleaner already and i couldnt really find anything.
Any help would be appreciated.
-Cole
p.s. I searched, but no one ever posted what was wrong with there car when it was fixed, ect...

 

As far as "pumping the clutch" problem, you obviously have air in your lines. You will need to bleed the system.

But before you do, check around the front and back of the firewall where the clutch master cylinder bolts in. If it is wet looking or paint is coming off, you have a leaky master cylinder. Then follow the entire system and check for leaks. Since you have air in the system, it had to get in somewhere which means a leak at that point. Bleeding the system will work temporarily, but not for too long unless you fix the leak.

What you are doing by pumping the pedal is moving the air pocket from your lines to the slave cylinder. Air compresses easily compared to the fluid, thus when you initially push in the pedal, the air pocket compresses and does not allow the hydraulic fluid to activate the slave cylinder. = no push on the clutch fork and no push on the release bearing and no push on the pressure plate and no release of the clutch disk.



The other problem you might be having sounds like a TPS problem. If you are not getting a CEL, then it might not be bad enough to cause a code.

-OR- the TPS itself might need adjustment. I noticed that my old USDM engine had the TPS riveted in place - no adjustment. My new JDM engine had it fastened with screws - slight adjustment. Since you idle poorly before the engine comes up to temp, but idles well when warm, I really think your TPS is not adjusted properly. If I am wrong or giving bad info, I hope someone corrects me on this...

 

Thanks alot man. ITs a USDM head/manifold...the tps hasnt been touched since i pulled out the b16a2, and the TPS has not been touched either. i'll check for leaks in the clutch lines when the sun comes out. What can i use to check the TPS voltage and what should it be?

 

I can bet you have a bad slave cylinder it very common with this motor. I guess alot of this has to do with swaps and motors always being shuffled around from state to state parts get damage and alot of the times you can't tell until you are driving.

But check your fluid levels in the clutch master cylinder resevoir

 

I replaced the slave cyl, nothing changed. and it wont bleed any more. Maybe a leak somewhere?

 

did you unplug the idle air control valve when you adjusted the idle?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you unplug the idle air control valve when you adjusted the idle?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No sir...Am i suppose to?

I have bigger problems then this also.. Found here:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1439594

 

yes you do need to unplug the IACV when adjusting idle. your idle as set by the screw is your base idle. The IACV will try and alter that idle absed on load on teh engine, such as AC or altnerator, it also goes and adjsuts for the engine coming back to idle so it doesnt stall out.

 

I guess that will solve my idle problem....but not the clutch pressure problem...