i bought extended studs b/c my 40 offset wheels barely grab onto the hub. (the lugs only go on 2-3 times around). i don't have the money for wheel bearings so i would like to try the "notched" method where you notch out part of the knuckle to get enough clearance to take out and put in the studs.

will this method work with ARP extended studs on a prelude? i know it will work with regular sized studs, but ARPs are much longer.

also, if this method will work, i will be using a dremel (best tool i could get a hold of) anybody recommend good attachments to use to cut into the cast iron of the knuckle? cast iron is brittle so it should cut pretty easily, but dremel attachments aren't known for there durability either.

 

bump

 

I changed my wheels studs on my 4G and didnt have to notch anyhting, I just beat them out with a hammer and a punch...

You do have to take the caliper and all the mounting plates and stuff out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazykid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I changed my wheels studs on my 4G and didnt have to notch anyhting, I just beat them out with a hammer and a punch... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Can anyone else confirm this method at all? Won't the new studs get damaged beating them back in?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Can anyone else confirm this method at all? Won't the new studs get damaged beating them back in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you're worried about damaging the studs just get a nut that fits the studs and tightin it down as hard as you can (without striping it of course). you can use your lug nuts if you want but they may not be deep enough

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazykid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I changed my wheels studs on my 4G and didnt have to notch anyhting, I just beat them out with a hammer and a punch...

You do have to take the caliper and all the mounting plates and stuff out.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


but were the studs you put in extended? the ARP's i have are much longer than stock.

XES: first off, it doesn't matter if you're beating them when you're taking them out cause they're getting replaced anyway. secondly, you can't beat the new ones in with a hammer by using the "notch" method because there is no room to swing the hammger in that little space. you have to "pull" them through by putting a lug on the stud and tightening it until it pulls the stud all the way in.

anybody else confirm that you do NOT need to notch the knuckle for clearance?

 

I dont know about the notching, but I do want to warn you...if youre not using open ended acorn nuts (most extended studs require/come wiht them) to pull your studs through. Find a big nut (like an axel nut) and a big washer with a small enough hole to catch the lug nut...put the nut on the stud, then the washer, then tighten the lug nut down by hand, or with an impact...your choice. If I have time I take the extra time and precaution to do it with a 1/2 inch rachet and socket, but if I'm doing it at work I zip them down on the lowest setting on my impact never had one strip yet (knock on wood) but its still alot safer by hand . I see too many techs trying to pull a stud with a closed lug nut and not having enough threads to pull it all the way through and ruining stud after stud, and most of the time the lug nut too.

Edit: always remember to retorque your wheels after new studs...if you didnt already know this

 

thanks for the info omgdude but i already did the rear tonight. i used a crappy old open ended lug nut to seat the stud. didn't use a washer, but did grease it.

if anybody wants to know, the rear is EASY. NO CUTTING, even with ARP extended ones. i just whacked 'em out, pulled 'em in, and DONE.

i'm going to attempt the front tomorrow. i'm betting that they will need to be notched slightly. hopefully i'll get these on so i can run at least one more month with my brand new hankook rs-2's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yOnKiNaToR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if anybody wants to know, the rear is EASY. NO CUTTING, even with ARP extended ones. i just whacked 'em out, pulled 'em in, and DONE.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good info. I think I'm going to do this now because I want to see how wide of a spacer I can run.

 

yOnKiNaToR,

I'd help you but I'm out here in West Bumblefuck and I don't want to have to drive through Central Bumblefuck.

Dan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudemanDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yOnKiNaToR,

I'd help you but I'm out here in West Bumblefuck and I don't want to have to drive through Central Bumblefuck.

Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, thanks for the offer dan.


update: i did the front. the front DOES require some small hacking. all i did is cut a small recess (1/2 cylinder shaped) into the knuckle with a dremel too. (took awhile but i wanted it to look good and not "chopped). anyway, i put in the studs just like the rear.

if you guys do it with this method, remember to seal up the fresh part of the knuckle that you just cut. the exposed machined cast iron will rust VERY fast if don't you apply oil or sealant of some kind to it. this is what i did: primered it, painted it black, then applied automotive undercoating (very stickly and durable) and let it cure for a day or more.

i definitely recommend doing it this way if you don't feel like taking the chance on ruining your wheel bearings.

finished product(new studs in and newly applied primer/paint/undercoat)



.orig.jpg at the end for high res

 

How big in diameter is that 1/2 cylinder you had to cut out??

 

well, it's a 1/2 cylinder so it wouldn't really have a diameter. but i would say that the radius is equal to the size of the radius of the head on the wheel stud or slightly smaller. what i did was kept cutting until i could gently tap in the arp stud. trial and error.

another bit of info to help in the process: if you want to get the arp head studs in easier, stick them in the freezer for awhile before you pound them in. makes the process MUCH easier.

 

I was going to say radius, but I didn't want to get too technical.

Good info on the freezing. I ordered my studs the other day....

 

i want some....

 

isnt it unsafe to cut it like that?

 

i seriously doubt it. you might get slight stress concentrations b/c of that radius, but i made the radius very even and broad to hopefully distribute the stress as much as possible. i would assume that the knuckle would fail in other places before it ever did where i cut it.

 

It's fine. that is not a stressed item, and I don't know why they didn't just put a service notch in there from the factory.

Y0nk, you need to scrap the brake dust shields!!!

 

you mean get rid of them? are you crazy!? i'm in northeastern, PA. 'nuff said.


ludeykrus: i would assume the reason why honda didn't put in the notches from the factory is that their dealerships could make more money by having to press out/in those hubs and replace all those wheel bearings.

 

what did you uses to cut the knuckle?

 

haha..i wouldn't recommend this unless you have good cutting tools and a lot of time: DREMEL. it's the only thing i could get my hands on and i HAD to replace them this weekend.

 

o ok.

i got a dremel, die grinder, and a drill. so i think i can do it

 

You guys got me scared now. Would 16x7 +40 Slipstreams require this modification? I just got brand new wheel bearings, and they were hella expensive.

 

well, i doubt removing the hub would ruin those wheel bearings. the only reason it would ruin wheel bearings for me and a lot of other prelude owners is b/c we have old cars with high mileage. (131,000 on original wheel bearings) so if i touch them, they'll prolly break.

and i couldn't believe my wheels either. i've never heard of extended studs required for 40 offset wheels. i recommend searching here to find out if your wheels will fit before you get them.

 

I believe my old 18's were +40's....we are supposed to run about +42's because the tuck in a bit more, correct? I just remember mine were out a bit too much according to people on here....

anyways, I didn't need extended studs for them. I just don't see how it's required in your case! Honestly it seems like the material where the nut "seats" at the bottom of the lug well would be the same thickness across different wheel manufacturers, but the angle can be different. What wheels specifically are you using?