In my other posts i explained what happpened I missed 3rd to fourth shift and went to second.I bent 6of8 exhaust valves and spun bearing on number one.repaired all that but car lacks power and when i start off it bogs seriously then picks up almost like it is out of gas.Ive checked all the recent post and all the archived posts but nothing matches what my car is doing.most people just fix valves and bearings and its fine.ive checked the cap and rotor the cap looks fine but the rotor sort of looks burnt/rusty looking.could the rotor button slow the car down that much.i also checked the iat it was real dirty could that have been the problem.the car is currently torn apart so i havent ran it since rotor and cap and wires have been changed .any more ideas please respond even the smallest idea 98 cw-0013

 

Give her the old compression/leakdown tests and report back.

 

Did you check if there was any damage to the head when the valves got bent !? The valve seatings or the guides might had been damaged !!

Do as Kendall said , make that compression test and tell us the readings as per cylinder.

Also did you just rebuilt the motor with all new bearings and rings or you just changed what was broken ? (the bearing on number one only)

A friend of mine with an ITR the crank got bent by nearly 1mm by the same thing like you did , it also spun a rod bearing.

 

make sure that your timing belt is installed correctly.......it is very easy to skip a tooth on the cam and it causes your car to run like crap or not run at all or possibly bend valves

 

This would be stupid, but did you check compression and leakdown?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Give her the old compression/leakdown tests and report back.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

did compression test here are results 240 237 239 241.had the head checked ,the 8 exhaust valves replaced,and a full set of rod bearings.after i put the rod bearings in the motor got real tight. this may be stupid but i looked for a color on the rod bearings but there were none so i went with yellow.I later found out it was stamped on thee block near the oil pan.I do plan on taking the motor out and taking the crank to a machine shop to get it machined or what ever they do.will they tell me what bearings to use or will i just move up a color?I dont think that would have anything to do with it what is your opinion?call me stupid but i didnt torque the rod bearings because it says i need a rood stretch gauge how critical is that i saw in the haynes manual there was a warning about only b18c5 engines only?how do check the valve seats and guides?btw i havent adjusted the valves since the headwork was done could this be my problem?if you have any questions please leave email address because i can only post 5 times every 24hrs "nooooob"

 

Well, it kind of sounds to me like you got in a little over your head here. Engine rebuilding isn't really just a "throw it together" kind of thing. Torque specs and clearances are VERY important, and if you lack the tools and knowledge to do those things properly, you shouldn't do it at all.

 

That is probably real true but no one will want to touch it with it torn apart like it is now.I am going to take the oil pan off and loosen and torque the rods and mains again and see if that loosens the engine up a little.In about a week im probably going to pull the engine and go head and replace the crank and bearings.Do you think i should replace the crank or get it machined?it didnt get scarred at all when i spun a bearing ,i ran my finger nail accross the journals and it was really smooth with no snags or scars.would you replace or machine the crank at all and just put the right bearings in it?

 

You may want to make a link to this thread in the All-Motor forum, there's a lot more guys there that know what they're doing when it comes to building engines right. I don't know enough to give you a good answer, but my guess would be to have a good machine shop inspect and measure the crank to see what kind of condition it's really in.

 

If you're anywhere near Greenville/Spartanburg I may be able to help you.

 

If the bearing didn't actually "spin"--the crank should be ok. The whole point of bearings, is that they are MUCH softer than the crank or block and caps. So the bearing will disentegrate-and the crank won't be damaged IF you catch it in time. If you let it go--the big end of the rod will contact the rod journal--the big end of the rod will now have to fixed (resized) and the crank would either have to be cut down and re-heattreated or thrown away. Take the crank out, and take it to a machine shop you trust--they will let you know right away. People always say they "spun" the bearing--when in reality the bearing may have just started to wear down. A spun bearing is just that--the bearing actually "spins" in the rod or the main bearing bore--and starts disentegrating--that is when you cause damage to the crank and/or rods...

 

to me it sounds like since you didnt plastigauge the bearing to crank clearances, you may actually be clamping down on the crank. in which case your journals are starved for oil and the crank is having a hard time rotating due tot he friction. in short you shouldnt have just thrown all yellows in there.

 

ive taken the rods crank and pistons to the machine shop today should i machine 10/10 ,or micropolish since its not too bad at all,or replace??????

 

If you can get away with micropolishing, then micropolish.

 

I TOOK THE CRANK TO ANOTHER SHOP IN CHARLOTTE NC AND THE MAN THERE SAID ALL IT NEEDED WAS MICROPOLISHING THATS IT HE CHECKED FOR WARPAGE AND MADE SURE IT WAS IN SPECS.EVERYTHING CHECKED FINE SO ILL BE PICKING IT UP TOMMORROW TO REASSEMBLE THE MOTOR WITH NEW ROD AND MAINS,NEW GASKETS,NEW EXEDY CLUTCH ,NEWLY SURFACED FLYWHEEL,AND NEW RINGS.IF THERE IS ANYTHING THAT ANYONE THINKS I SHOULD LOOK OUT FOR OR BECAREFUL WITH PLEASE LET ME KNOW??????THANKS

 

good luck man. I hope that guy was right. Just a thought.. I have heard stories of messed up or not properly working O2 sensors causing bogging like that until higher rpms... But thats just a though.

 

IM THINKING THAT BOGGING MAY HAVE BEEN AN IGNITION PROBLEM BUT IVE GOT TO GET IT BACK TOGETHER AND RUNNING THIS MAY FIX OR HELP EITHER WAY MY BOTTOM END SHOULD BE FIXED WHEN I GET DONE AND IF THAT IS NOT THE PROBLEM I WILL MOVE ON TO SOMETHING ELSE TO CHECK.DOES ANYONE KNOW OF ANYTHING ELSE I CAN USE ON A C5 ROD BOLT OTHER THAN A STRETCH GAUGE ,MAYBE A CERTAIN TORQUE SETTING??????????

 

if the car had a slight bogg. did you ever check to make sure the distributor was timed right. sounds like the timing was off when the distributor was put back on, swap out the distributor with a known good one. and get it timed.

 

i just got done rebuilding the engine ,changing to exedy clutch,new strup header,new wires, cap,rotor,thermostat.it seemed to take the sluggishness out ,but it still feels like its not 100%.i am probably going to change the fuel filter tomorrow i dont think it will hurt.i am trying to be easy on the engine/clutch for a proper breakin.Also i waS driving around tonight after i have put 140 miles on the new rebuild and my check engine light comes on with a code 45 too lean and fuel trim malfunction.after the light i parked just too be safe until i can get it checked out.i am also going to get my valves adjusted since i got all eight exhaust valves replaced.they are not making any noise but they maybe too tight??any recommendations?????????????????????????????????

 

The bogging can be many things, but if you are throwing a code 45 it does sound like your O2 sensor like Totsie said. Check the O2 with a voltmeter, and also check your fuel lines, fuel pump, injectors, etc.

That being said, please make sure you take off caps lock and use punctuation in the future. RUN ON SENTENCES ARE HARD TO READ PUNCTUATION IS YOUR FRIEND YOU GET MY DRIFT CORRECT?

 

What am i checking fuel lines for, leakage loose ,clogged,or pressure?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by planetstereo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In my other posts i explained what happpened I missed 3rd to fourth shift and went to second.I bent 6of8 exhaust valves and spun bearing on number one.repaired all that but car lacks power and when i start off it bogs seriously then picks up almost like it is out of gas.Ive checked all the recent post and all the archived posts but nothing matches what my car is doing.most people just fix valves and bearings and its fine.ive checked the cap and rotor the cap looks fine but the rotor sort of looks burnt/rusty looking.could the rotor button slow the car down that much.i also checked the iat it was real dirty could that have been the problem.the car is currently torn apart so i havent ran it since rotor and cap and wires have been changed .any more ideas please respond even the smallest idea 98 cw-0013</TD></TR></TABLE>