* j/k; not hardly the ultimate but more than you'd normally see

Ok...
So i've finally started on the re-turbo'ing of my car the "HONDA OF FURY" HOF for short; my friend's nicknamed the car that so it's stuck.
I bought my 90 civic si 2 years ago in february with a ****-*** greddy toy 15g turbo kit and an ailing D16A6 and an hf four speed. The guy that owned the car was a total idiot and the car desperatly needed saving. At this point in my life i was paying people to tighten the belts on my other car; i knew about cars but had 0 experience working on them or modifying them. So i did what I always do and jumped in head first
The car stayed pretty much d16a6/greddy kit for a while while i played with the efi and did some other things to it and then finaly trashed the motor. Skip a few botched motor rebuilds and other such shenanigans and we have my current setup.

PARTS LIST (off the top of my head):
-Built D16Z6 SOHC VTEC - 8.5:1 SRP pistons; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL bearings; ARP hardware; Endyn block posting studs; ARP head studs; oe mls gasket; stock head/valvetrain/cam
-Full obd1 electronics - chipped/vtec enabled P06 ecu running crome pro
-Home built ram-horn manifold somewhat equal length; better than a log;
-Garrett T3/T04E .63ar stg3 turbine; .5ar 57 trim compressor rebuilt
-knockoff 35mm wastegate (maybe two as I have two in case i run into boost control issues)
-JRC 6" Intercooler (24x6x3 core)
-HKS SSQV knockoff bov
-2.5" aluminumized charge piping
-450cc injectors - stock ignition
-J&S Ultrasafeguard for knock control
-Techedge 2AO wideband with LD02 display wired to the ecu for tuning purposes
-Greddy profec B spec 2 EBC
-Full autometer gauge set (boost; oil press; water temp; afr (sucks but its there))
-Ebay short shifter
-Tokiko allumina or whatever adjustable shocks on all 4 corners
-intrax springs set to way too ****** low
-Jim Bob joe whoever's ebay front camber kit (hey it works) going to use the rear camber washer mod fix soon to fix camber in the rear
-15x6.5" bronze rota slipstreams in bronze withYokahama AVS ES100 tires (very nice tires btw)

To be installed in the very near future:
-Rebuilt Civic cable transmission (DX trim with the higher final drive than the si)
-8lb flywheel and better clutch (as soon as the rebuilt trans goes in most likely)
-Apexi AVC-R uber boost controller to replace the spec 2
-Aluminum EG twin core half radiator
-3" open downpipe

The motor has roughly 5000 miles on it since i built it and was tuned by myself using crome and more recently crome pro. I used it as a daily driver with the low compression built motor because I had to. I had spent the last few months hoarding parts; buying and selling **** saving spending and getting all the stuff needed to fabricate my turbo kit. And this last week that's what I did. I put the kit together finally

Here is the car after we got it running after i bought it; a6 and greddy kit; not much to see


Finally after living with the panda-ae86 wannabe paint job for as long as i could I decided i'd paint it flat black... So i did.. in my shop over a weekend a few months ago.




The finished product after i painted the **** wheels that came with the car bronze. I was shopping around for rotas and couldn't decide what color; my friend kept pushing me to get bronze so i thought i'd see what it looked like. Turned out great; i liked the color.



I wound up getting the bronze slips and they look great



Now on the to the fabrication of the turbo kit.
I took these


This


Started making this


And came up with this


Say what you will about the welds but they fall on deaf ears. I have maybe 2hrs of experience behind a mig gun and I think it turned out great. The welds are holding; no leaks no cracks yet and penetration was adequate on enough of the manifold that I think shey'll hold great. Not bad for something that cost less than ONE ******* TENTH the price of a full-ripoff manifold.

After it was together i threw it in the car and it's freakin huge; there is no way i can use my stock EF rad. oops...



Oh well; next I mount the intercooler



Next comes the piping; easiest part of the whole build.




Finally i threw together a temporary downpipe until I can get an aftermarket x-member and mount the wg on the manifold and run a 3" downpipe. It kinda leaks since i haven't been able to belt sand the flange flat after welding. I dont really care; its only temporary.



Lastly the finished prject




The car runs fantastically; i'm only pushing 5psi at the moment while i make sure everything is running right and there are no mechanical problems. Above 4500 when that turbo wakes up the car makes all kinds of happy noises and just shoots forward 70 takes no time at all to hit and 2nd and 3rd gear pulls are insane.

My exhaust is only abou 12" of 2.5" pipe and it sounds spectacular; it's not hardly as loud as I thought it would be as far as engine noises; on the other hand that turbo just SCREAMS; I couldn't have asked for a better sound. I'm absolutely in love.

There are still a few things left to do; I need to plasma cut my bumper support so the intercooler doesn't sit crooked; find a way to make a hood fit with an ek half rad and clean up the engine bay. Also my spare tranny is being rebuilt and as soon as it's done the engine and everything will be pulled out; i'll paint the bay to match the car and install a beefy clutch/flywheel and probably some bigger injectors. Thats to come in the next few months.


Overall I am EXTREMLY happy with how well this build turned out. The motor is running strong; the turbo is spinning and tuning is going without a hitch. I expect to be putting down 300+ WHP in the near future!


Modified by ComputerJLT at 7:44 PM 9/10/2005


Modified by ComputerJLT at 11:42 PM 9/11/2005

 

Damn, that radiator hose is kind of ghetto but aside from that the engine bay is just a little dirty. to a built SOHC and doing all the work yourself.

If you need a radiator, I have one sitting in my basement. I'll sell it to you for $20 plus shipping.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn, that radiator hose is kind of ghetto but aside from that the engine bay is just a little dirty. to a built SOHC and doing all the work yourself.

If you need a radiator, I have one sitting in my basement. I'll sell it to you for $20 plus shipping. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what kinda rad? I'm probalby going to run this piece of crap until i can get a big aluminum one off ebay. I'm not even running a fan now; gotta wait for my 12" fan to come in before i can make more than 2 wot runs or drive more than maybe 20 miles

Also that hose was a last resort; my rubber hose i had in there was too short to reach the neck of the ek rad so i had to reinstate the ricer-hose that came on the car :-/ it works though

 

WTF u mad at full-race cuz u cant afford their ****, stupid. Your whole setup looks like ***.

 

use the radiator from an auto eg. double thick and you can get them for a steal. I like it ! nice diy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leadfoot78 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WTF u mad at full-race cuz u cant afford their ****, stupid. Your whole setup looks like ***. </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol typical shop-built pay to play ricer comment

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MI KENT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use the radiator from an auto eg. double thick and you can get them for a steal. I like it ! nice diy</TD></TR></TABLE>

nah i need a thick bastard aftermarket one this will work for now; just need a fan on it.

 

SOHC powa

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComputerJLT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not bad for something that cost less than ONE ******* TENTH the price of a full-ripoff manifold</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here we go again. I was waiting for that. In like 90% of your threads you hate on Full-Race. However I will say good job on the build. At least you put some effort into learning something new and you turned your own wrenches. Just need to stop hating on a company you have no experience with.

P.S.- The manifold looks to be about "ONE ******* TENTH" the quality of "full-ripoff".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97turbols &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Here we go again. I was waiting for that. In like 90% of your threads you hate on Full-Race. However I will say good job on the build. At least you put some effort into learning something new and you turned your own wrenches. Just need to stop hating on a company you have no experience with.

P.S.- The manifold looks to be about "ONE ******* TENTH" the quality of "full-ripoff".
</TD></TR></TABLE>

pretty much; i'm sure the full-ripoff manifold is extremly high quality but you dont NEED that much. The collector on my manifold is smooth; the runners are all even and there is no hideous drip through; i'd be more than comfortable with someone letting me borrow their full-ripoff manifold throwing my car on the dyno then putting mine back on there.
I hate spending money that I dont need to; thats the main reason I did all the fabrication myself.

I'm exstatic about how it turned out and you can critisize all you want but like i've said before they'll fall on deaf ears.

From here on i'll ignore any full-ripoff comments

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComputerJLT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kinda rad? I'm probalby going to run this piece of crap until i can get a big aluminum one off ebay. I'm not even running a fan now; gotta wait for my 12" fan to come in before i can make more than 2 wot runs or drive more than maybe 20 miles

Also that hose was a last resort; my rubber hose i had in there was too short to reach the neck of the ek rad so i had to reinstate the ricer-hose that came on the car :-/ it works though</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its just a stock radiator for a 98 Dx.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComputerJLT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

pretty much; i'm sure the full-ripoff manifold is extremly high quality but you dont NEED that much. The collector on my manifold is smooth; the runners are all even and there is no hideous drip through; i'd be more than comfortable with someone letting me borrow their full-ripoff manifold throwing my car on the dyno then putting mine back on there.
I hate spending money that I dont need to; thats the main reason I did all the fabrication myself.

I'm exstatic about how it turned out and you can critisize all you want but like i've said before they'll fall on deaf ears.

From here on i'll ignore any full-ripoff comments
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am in no way criticizing you, I applaud you for you hard work and having the guts to jump in and try something new. Good Job. But I am tired of people coming on here and bad mouthing Full-Race, or any other company, when they have no proof, and no experience, and no grounds. Almost every post you make is bashing Full-Race. You have never bought there products and never had any experience with them; however you continue to bash them. I have had very good experiences with Full-Race's products and their outstanding customer service. I know they won't defend themselves on here, so I try to speak up for them when I can. I believe that there needs to be more regulation on this web site. If you bash a company and try to hurt their reputation, be it Full-Race or any one else, then you damn well better have some proof. Because when you come on here people listen, and when you talk out your *** you create rumors and myths.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97turbols &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am in no way criticizing you, I applaud you for you hard work and having the guts to jump in and try something new. Good Job. But I am tired of people coming on here and bad mouthing Full-Race, or any other company, when they have no proof, and no experience, and no grounds. Almost every post you make is bashing Full-Race. You have never bought there products and never had any experience with them; however you continue to bash them. I have had very good experiences with Full-Race's products and their outstanding customer service. I know they won't defend themselves on here, so I try to speak up for them when I can. I believe that there needs to be more regulation on this web site. If you bash a company and try to hurt their reputation, be it Full-Race or any one else, then you damn well better have some proof. Because when you come on here people listen, and when you talk out your *** you create rumors and myths.</TD></TR></TABLE>

like i said... lemme borrow your manifold; i'll throw it on a dyno and i'll giv eyou some proof. I'm going to stop this as i dont want this thread to turn to an ugly mess but i've got plenty of reasons to hate on full-ripoff.

Anyways.. thanks for your input and i appreciate your kind words

 

Agreed, it is dropped. Good Job on the build and good luck!

 

wow, talk about ghetto/cheap but it gets the job done and u did all the work yourself so i give u a . any problems with that radiator hose leaking?

 

dude your are my sohc turbo master...


noice!

 

wouldnt you say that o2 is too close to the turbo? i remember the instructions on my plx said like 16 inches away or somethinlike that. i bet you saved so much its not even funny...i want to tackle making my own manifold some day. where did you end up buying the bends from?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComputerJLT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol typical shop-built pay to play ricer comment
</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL


it gets the job done. i like the wastegate setup.
and it could be alittle cleaner..

good job none the less

 

yea the downpipe is temporary; i made it in literally 20 minutes from taking the flange off the turbo to having it bolted back on.

it's entirely too short for that o2; it reads off from o2 getting in there from the leaks and everything else. When i take it off next week to flatten the flange i'm going to extend the pipe about a foot under the engine with a dump to help with the o2 readings.

Also when i get a crossmember and mount the eg rad where its supposed to be i'll brring the wastegate off the collector where its supposed to be instead of off the turbo.

like i said its a temporary pipe but it works sounds great too

 

didnt even see these two comments

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, talk about ghetto/cheap but it gets the job done and u did all the work yourself so i give u a . any problems with that radiator hose leaking?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no it doesn't leak. As far as i know its the ricer kit summit sells. When i got the car it had the aluminum covers taht go over the couplers; dunno where they got off to not that I care. The hoses work. my stock one was too short so i opted to put these back in. function &gt; form

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its just a stock radiator for a 98 Dx.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i see; i'll just stick with this one i have until i can get a real radiator

 

Nice setup man Could use a cleaning though

 

Cool stuff DIY

 

Ghetto-Fabulous build up. Hey if it runs, it runs. And props for doing it all yourself.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComputerJLT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's entirely too short for that o2; it reads off from o2 getting in there from the leaks and everything else. When i take it off next week to flatten the flange i'm going to extend the pipe about a foot under the engine with a dump to help with the o2 readings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

On this subject though, you need to move your o2 sensor about 12" inches downstream to get accurate readings. Plus you'll burn up your sensor faster from getting too hot. Check out the TechEdge website and read their recommendations on o2 sensor placement.

 

good job on the HMT build! I especially like the one miss matched wire plug... it looks gangster.

 

 

Wow, Did you weld all that with your feet??

Good job putting it together, work on your welds.