I haven't done a decent write-up in a while and for some reason I felt extremely motivated so I whipped out the digi-cam and decided to do a little 'how-to' as it pertains to the ECU I use to tune my own and local NJ customers who want a nice street tune. I get a lot of these types of questions from customers on the regular.

I started with a stock P72 and chipped it using one of my DIY ECU Chipping Kits


I added a little extra to my ECU in that I use the little two prong headers with jumper covers instead of just making use of left over resistor parts. This allows me to easily switch J1 and J12 depending on if I want to run the ECU in stock form or if I prefer to datalog with Uberdata or Crome.

For J1, most people add a switch, IMO they are bulky and expensive ($2) and you have to run wires and there is always the odd chance your ECU gets bumped and your chipped ECU turns into a stock ECU and all chaos breaks loose. I use this:

You just have to bend the legs out slightly and it fits nicely in the J1 spot.

This also works well for the J12 spot on the OBD1 ECUs. For your Uberdata users, you leave J12 in tact as UD doesnt take advantage of full duplex datalogging like Crome, ECU Control and I'm sure Hondata and Neptune. Again, adding these two prong jumpers makes it easy to switch back and forth without actually installing a switch. Here are a few more pics:


You can easily see how compact and practical these little jumpers are.

In the above picture you can see that I am using a 3M Zif Socket. It is a screw down type and fits the connection of the Moates Ostrich much more easily and securely than the Aries Blue ZIF sockets. If you are using an Ostrich to do your tuning with, I highly recommend this ZIF socket.

For dataloging, I offer 3 types of cables/connections. Personally, I like my USB Datalogging Board. It is small as well (has some cool little LEDs) and fits nicely inside the ECU if you dremel out a spot for it in the case. To secure it inside, I used some male and female velcro. Female velcro is attached to the bottom side of the USB board and the male side is stuck to the under side of the ECU Top Case. Its nice and snug and securely in there so as not to move around.



On top of the ECU case (when closed) is more velcro that attached my Ostrich to my ECU. I wrap the excess cable and secure it with rubber band (a little ghetto).




You are now ready to pop the ECU in and out of you or your friends rides and help them tune.



I also recommend getting yourself one of the OBD1-->OBD1 jumper harnesses pictured here if you are going to be doing multiple cars. This allows you to put the ECU in a car and refrain from cutting into the stock harness at all. I usually have my wideband powered directly from the ECU power and grounds and feed the WB signal directly into the ECU through this harness. I also have other spots ready with quick connects to log IATs, RPMs, ECTs, MAP & TPS using my Innovate RPM convertor if necessary. I recommend JKOBD for any conversion harness work your need.

Of course this thread is OBD1 specific, but I do have the same exact setup for OBD0 ECUs and you can apply all of this directly to any chippable OBD0 ECU as well.

 

good thread.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVtec-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> good thread.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ditto. very informative.

 

your write-ups always come in handy.

 

good info chris

 

Nice pics for the people that are new to everything.

 

Great writeup man! I'm glad i saw this. I never knew about that 3M zif socket before. I hate not being able to use a zif with my ostrich.

Also can you go into more detail on the full duplex datalogging? I always heard that you have to jump j12 for datalogging with crome, but whats the advantage of this logging over the ordinary logging done with uber?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also can you go into more detail on the full duplex datalogging? I always heard that you have to jump j12 for datalogging with crome, but whats the advantage of this logging over the ordinary logging done with uber?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, being that I'm not a super-coder like some of the guys over at PGMFI, I will have to defer except to say that it is supposedly faster w/ more info (more samples).

J12 needs to be removed (unjumpered) for full duplex datalogging with Crome/ECU Control and in tact (jumpered) for Uberdata.

Uber is good what its good for...but if you have ever logged with ECU Control or Crome, it has far advanced beyond Uber's logging.

 

Yes, full duplex datalogging means that it'll have as xenocron said more info (higher sample rate) than uber because it sends and receives data at the same time. Half Duplex like uber uses can send and receive data but not at the same time.

 

Excellent thread

 

Stop being a hot shot.
Lol

 

Awesome work

 

Thanx for the explanation guys . Uber really can be a pain in the *** with datalogging sometimes. It used to work fairly well with my car, but not it seems when doing wot runs i always get logged lambda values that are .5 higher than what they actually are.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recommend JKOBD for any conversion harness work your need.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I double this recommendation.

 

cool write need to get my ecu chipped now have my diy kit already just dont have the ***** to try it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghostskinner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool write need to get my ecu chipped now have my diy kit already just dont have the ***** to try it
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Go for it...just take your time and dont rush it...cake

 

Good job Chris. Throw up some info on chipping for the newer Hondata S300 setup too.

 

I forgot that after I am done tuning (which is hardly ever, Im always tweaking for some reason) I use the 2Timer seen here.



Installed in the ECU it allows you to run two completely different BIN files on the same SST-512 chip. By grounding the green wire you see in the pic below, I am using my tuned program (lower half of the chip, 32k). I actually ground it internally to the ECU on pin one of the datalogging port. You can hook it to any chassis ground though and throw a switch on it to toggle between the two programs. When the ground is not connected, it uses the other program on the top half of the 512 chip.



Some ideas for use are launch control or no launch control. Do a burnout without launch and then when you stage, flip the switch and have your preset launch rpm set. You can also do what some others do and create a 'valet' program where you lower the rev limit, speed limit and any other parameters are changeable. Flip the switch to valet mode and no one is going joyriding in your car except you. You could also do a pump gas and a race gas program and switch between them...all on the fly of course as long as your fuel maps are set properly, you wont notice a difference.

Personally what I do is set an around the town kind of map...general driving. Then for long drives when I wont be boosting and want fuel mileage (gas prices suck), I've tuned my car for lean cruising. Jack the ignition timing up and lean out the part throttle cruising area for exceptional gas mileage. I think J.Davis and Blundar have used some trickery and gotten some boosted Hondas into the 50-60 mpg range which is nice these days.


Modified by xenocron at 7:51 AM 8/18/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tilt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your write-ups always come in handy. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

nice writeup....like when people do informative write-ups like this....especially with pictures

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I forgot that after I am done tuning (which is hardly ever, Im always tweaking for some reason) I use the 2Timer seen here.



Installed in the ECU it allows you to run two completely different BIN files on the same SST-512 chip. By grounding the green wire you see in the pic below, I am using my tuned program (lower half of the chip, 32k). I actually ground it internally to the ECU on pin one of the datalogging port. You can hook it to any chassis ground though and throw a switch on it to toggle between the two programs. When the ground is not connected, it uses the other program on the top half of the 512 chip.



Some ideas for use are launch control or no launch control. Do a burnout without launch and then when you stage, flip the switch and have your preset launch rpm set. You can also do what some others do and create a 'valet' program where you lower the rev limit, speed limit and any other parameters are changeable. Flip the switch to valet mode and no one is going joyriding in your car except you. You could also do a pump gas and a race gas program and switch between them...all on the fly of course as long as your fuel maps are set properly, you wont notice a difference.

Personally what I do is set an around the town kind of map...general driving. Then for long drives when I wont be boosting and want fuel mileage (gas prices suck), I've tuned my car for lean cruising. Jack the ignition timing up and lean out the part throttle cruising area for exceptional gas mileage. I think J.Davis and Blundar have used some trickery and gotten some boosted Hondas into the 50-60 mpg range which is nice these days.</TD></TR></TABLE>

killer set up

for JKOB.COM

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I think J.Davis and Blundar have used some trickery and gotten some boosted Hondas into the 50-60 mpg range which is nice these days.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Amen. I recently had a very long freeway drive and by leaning cruise out into the 16's and bumping timing, I was able to achieve an honest 38mpg for the entire 375m trip. Boosted lower C/R GSR in a CRX.

PS, where do you get those 2Timer's from? cool ****

 

S300 info from http://hondata.com/s300socketing.html

Socketing the s300 is very similar to the s100/s200. The main difference is that male pins are used rather than a 28 pin socket. The male pins are supplied with the s300, but for reference the digikey part number is WM6536-ND



Socketing a new ECU:

1. Take the ECU circuit board out the ECU case.
2. De-solder IC4, install and solder in the 20 pin 74373 latch.
3. De-solder J1, install and solder the supplied jumper.
4. De-solder R54, install and solder the supplied resistor. Note: Not all ECUs require this step.
5. De-solder IC3.
6. De-solder CN2.
7. Insert the male pins (1 x 4 pin, 2 x 14 pin) into the s300, install into the ECU and solder the pins.
8. Cut J12

Socketing an ECU with an existing socket or chip:

1. Take the ECU circuit board out the ECU case.
2. De-solder IC3 and remove the socket / ROM.
3. De-solder CN2. Optionally the polarizing tab of the 4 pin connector may be cut off and the existing 4 pin connector utilized.
4. Insert the male pins (1 x 4 pin, 2 x 14 pin) into the s300, install into the ECU and solder the pins.
5. Cut J12

Care must be taken when de-soldering not to lift tracks on the ECU circuit board.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
PS, where do you get those 2Timer's from? cool ****
</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://xenocron.com/products.php?page=components

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks kinda like mine...

Good writeup for the DIY people