What brake fluid to run for track / autocross / daily driving?
I guess I have a few questions here. I'll be doing a track event at Little Talladega next Month. Im going to run Axxis brake pads front and rear... (I know the Panther + pads are a little better for track, but after talking with Andie I decided on the Axxis since after this one track day I'll have lots of auto-crossing events coming up so I didnt want to buy 2 sets of brake pads right now)
Anyways...what fluid should I run and can the fluid be run with daily driving or should I get fluid for just the track and then put Honda fluid back in for daily?
TIA
Anyways...what fluid should I run and can the fluid be run with daily driving or should I get fluid for just the track and then put Honda fluid back in for daily?
TIA
I really like superblue mostly because it's easier for me to know I've completely flushed the system. I think next time I flush I'll use rbf 600 and time after that super blue again. The whole blue/brown/blue thing is much easier for me.
I didn't want to spend a fortune on brake fluid so I got the heavy duty Ford brake fluid. This was recommended by Paul Brown himself of HP Motorsports (he drives the Saleen in Speedvision GT). I would think he knows what he's talking about.
rbf is sort expensive....superblue is like 10 a liter in town and I think you can get it for like 8 if you order it. I got 2 liters and flushed my car, my friends rx7, my clutch and I still have 3/4 a liter left.
Best bang for the buck in a high performance fluid that is not hygroscopic is Valvoline Synpower DOT4...cheap, and works well. We don't sell it, but I have no problems recommending it...especially since it is readily available: Walmart, Kmart, DAP, Pep Boys, etc.
-Andie
-Andie
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From: Drinking Beer in sunny FL and jamming to Skid Row, USA
1. Ford Truck HD (renamed now and more expensive
)
2. Castrol LMA (only boiled this stuff once on Sebring, not bad considering how I brake
)
3. ATE SuperBlue
I run superblue now and have NEVER had fade. Granted I change it before each track event but still.
)2. Castrol LMA (only boiled this stuff once on Sebring, not bad considering how I brake
)3. ATE SuperBlue
I run superblue now and have NEVER had fade. Granted I change it before each track event but still.
i run motul rbf 600 and it's treated me very well on track courses
i keep it in all times and just bleed it more frequently than normal, but i guess you could switch back to honda fluid if you're not going to do another track event in the near future
i keep it in all times and just bleed it more frequently than normal, but i guess you could switch back to honda fluid if you're not going to do another track event in the near future
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ate superblue
http://www.ogracing.com
http://www.ogracing.com
So choices are
1.ATE Superblue (how much is this and can it be bought at local stores?)
2.Motul RBF 600 (how much and can it be bought local?)
3. Valvoline Syn DOT4 (not expensive, available at Wally World
1.ATE Superblue (how much is this and can it be bought at local stores?)
2.Motul RBF 600 (how much and can it be bought local?)
3. Valvoline Syn DOT4 (not expensive, available at Wally World
2.Motul RBF 600 (how much and can it be bought local?)
it's 11.95 each i htink
there's also a honda motorcycle shop in jonesboro that sells it but i don't remember how much
Motul RBF 600.
It has boiling points (dry and wet) that are significantly higher than the Ford HD or ATE Superblue or Valvoline. Compare for yourself: Motul's are dry 312°c / 593°F and wet 216°c / 420°F. Those boiling points are 30-100 degrees higher than Ford HD (550°F dry) or Valvoline (500°F dry) or ATE Superblue. That means that you'll have greater protection against your fluid boiling, and your brakes fading due to air bubbles in the system from boiling.
And it only costs $8-12 per half-liter bottle. Which means you're talking about spending between $16 and $40 per year on brake fluid that will give your car greater braking performance on the track and at an autocross. That's not a lot of money, and it's money well spent.
[Modified by nsxtcjr, 11:23 AM 2/20/2002]
It has boiling points (dry and wet) that are significantly higher than the Ford HD or ATE Superblue or Valvoline. Compare for yourself: Motul's are dry 312°c / 593°F and wet 216°c / 420°F. Those boiling points are 30-100 degrees higher than Ford HD (550°F dry) or Valvoline (500°F dry) or ATE Superblue. That means that you'll have greater protection against your fluid boiling, and your brakes fading due to air bubbles in the system from boiling.
And it only costs $8-12 per half-liter bottle. Which means you're talking about spending between $16 and $40 per year on brake fluid that will give your car greater braking performance on the track and at an autocross. That's not a lot of money, and it's money well spent.
[Modified by nsxtcjr, 11:23 AM 2/20/2002]
i agree with everything you're saying Ken except I thought that since motul absorbs water easily it should be bled/flushed more frequently. i usually flush mine every 3 months or before a track event
Motul RBF 600.
It has boiling points (dry and wet) that are significantly higher than the Ford HD or ATE Superblue or Valvoline. Compare for yourself: Motul's are dry 312°c / 593°F and wet 216°c / 420°F. Those boiling points are 30-100 degrees higher than Ford HD (550°F dry) or ATE Superblue or Valvoline (500°F dry). That means that you'll have greater protection against your fluid boiling, and your brakes fading due to air bubbles in the system from boiling.
And it only costs $8-12 per half-liter bottle. Which means you're talking about spending between $16 and $40 per year on brake fluid that will give your car greater braking performance on the track and at an autocross. That's not a lot of money, and it's money well spent.
[Modified by nsxtcjr, 11:08 AM 2/20/2002]
It has boiling points (dry and wet) that are significantly higher than the Ford HD or ATE Superblue or Valvoline. Compare for yourself: Motul's are dry 312°c / 593°F and wet 216°c / 420°F. Those boiling points are 30-100 degrees higher than Ford HD (550°F dry) or ATE Superblue or Valvoline (500°F dry). That means that you'll have greater protection against your fluid boiling, and your brakes fading due to air bubbles in the system from boiling.
And it only costs $8-12 per half-liter bottle. Which means you're talking about spending between $16 and $40 per year on brake fluid that will give your car greater braking performance on the track and at an autocross. That's not a lot of money, and it's money well spent.
[Modified by nsxtcjr, 11:08 AM 2/20/2002]
How much will I need to flush out the Honda brake fluid and put in the New stuff (whether it be Valvoline or ATS or Motul)?
Honda dot 3 fluid exceeds requirements. High boiling point. Ate typ200 and superblue are the same product, both work very well. I wouldn't use anything else.
ogracings site says the ATE Superblus dry boiling point is 536 F not 500
[Modified by RATEDR, 12:37 PM 2/20/2002]
[Modified by RATEDR, 12:37 PM 2/20/2002]
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Motul is good stuff, BUT, since I've never boiled ATE Superblue, and my calipers wont measure on a 550 degree pyometer cause they are higher than that, I don't see the need for it. I brake *VERY* hard, don't drag the brakes, etc. and have never had a problem. If you are fading SuperBlue at a LAPPING DAY you might not want to drag the brakes so much, or drive a little slower, lapping days aren't races.
i agree with everything you're saying Ken except I thought that since motul absorbs water easily it should be bled/flushed more frequently. i usually flush mine every 3 months or before a track event
buy 2 liters of Super Bl00 and flush till the blue comes out of the bleeder screws.
~$20 from O.G.

Will
-who has had NO issues with blue fluid or blue pads.
[Modified by Willard, 12:21 PM 2/20/2002]
~$20 from O.G.

Will

-who has had NO issues with blue fluid or blue pads.
[Modified by Willard, 12:21 PM 2/20/2002]
P.S. These other fluids are good too and you may get good results with them. But quality in brake fluid is measured by its boiling points, and Motul's are higher.
[Modified by nsxtcjr, 11:23 AM 2/20/2002]
[Modified by nsxtcjr, 11:23 AM 2/20/2002]
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From: Drinking Beer in sunny FL and jamming to Skid Row, USA
Motul doesn't absorb water easily. (It has higher wet boiling points than most other brake fluids, which is the measurement of this.) And it doesn't need to be bled/flushed more frequently than any other brake fluid. I flush mine once per year, in spring at the start of the seven-month track season (and keep using it over the winter). I know some people flush more often but it's really a matter of personal preference and should have nothing to do with the brake fluid (unless you're using some fluid that has low wet boiling points).
We bleed motul more than any other fluid cause after a single weekend it's done. First race, it's great, second race its great, end of the SAARC race, it's just good.. don't bleed it and the brakes feel like *** after letting it sit for a few weeks.


