cant go past 3000!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Okay I did some searching; this is what I found out. I have an obd0 Ls dizzy on a dohc Zc. When I first got it, it was working fine. It could go as fast as I wanted to. Now I can’t go faster than 3000 rpms or 65 mph. Before this happened my car started to make a little rattling noise now its loud and even does it at idle could this be my distributor bearing.
At first I was thinking it was the tranny making the noise, but after some searching I think it might be the dizzy.
How do I fix this annoying problem without buying a new dizzy?? If in fact that is what’s wrong?
At first I was thinking it was the tranny making the noise, but after some searching I think it might be the dizzy.
How do I fix this annoying problem without buying a new dizzy?? If in fact that is what’s wrong?
distributor...not a dumb questionsjust got to get use to the "slang" do what i do.
try to read as much of this site as you can.........but first read up on your car...then move onto more
try to read as much of this site as you can.........but first read up on your car...then move onto more
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i have no idea, when my zc did that it was my cable. look it up. cant find it let me know pm me or email me dj_edify@yahoo.com ill try to help best i can.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dj Edify »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i do it use to go off now its on all the time</TD></TR></TABLE>
I bet $100 its either code 4 or 9...replace your distributor if it is.
I bet $100 its either code 4 or 9...replace your distributor if it is.
9 is cyp, i've had it before and it didnt make it so i couldnt rev past 3, infact it drove just fine. check the codes there should be a light flashing on your ecu pull the codes.
cause:
you might ask why? i was driving gauge reading was under E limp mode came on to conserve fuel since it sensed a loss of it so i was able to drive into the station with code 4 and 3k rpm limit. also the dizzy started making that damn noise like screw loose inside the cap or bearing had no lube type sound.
another reason too because the dizzy is advanced alot and im at 45psi idle. it started to buck and buck the more i drove it so then the ecu kicked everything back to run "safe" til i could get more fuel.
my fix:
after full tank, reset ecu and 20-30 mins of driving. it went back to normal.
if the code 4 and limp comes back dont freak out. just put in clutch turn off car while driving/coasting turn ignition on again and pop clutch the code 4 and limp mode shouldbe gone and if you baby the car and not keep it above 3k you might pop back into limp mode I had to do this 2-3 times til the fuel system went back to normal.
nutshell.. use better gas, higher octane, or reatrd timing, dont run on E, reset ecu 2-3 times til it starts acting right.
you might ask why? i was driving gauge reading was under E limp mode came on to conserve fuel since it sensed a loss of it so i was able to drive into the station with code 4 and 3k rpm limit. also the dizzy started making that damn noise like screw loose inside the cap or bearing had no lube type sound.
another reason too because the dizzy is advanced alot and im at 45psi idle. it started to buck and buck the more i drove it so then the ecu kicked everything back to run "safe" til i could get more fuel.
my fix:
after full tank, reset ecu and 20-30 mins of driving. it went back to normal.
if the code 4 and limp comes back dont freak out. just put in clutch turn off car while driving/coasting turn ignition on again and pop clutch the code 4 and limp mode shouldbe gone and if you baby the car and not keep it above 3k you might pop back into limp mode I had to do this 2-3 times til the fuel system went back to normal.
nutshell.. use better gas, higher octane, or reatrd timing, dont run on E, reset ecu 2-3 times til it starts acting right.
ive been doing all of that. i use to not shift till about 6ooo rpms so it wouldnt have a chance to go below 3000. now it will just jump right down to 3000.
how do i replace the crank angle sensor? i got a code 4
how do i replace the crank angle sensor? i got a code 4
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dj Edify »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive been doing all of that. i use to not shift till about 6ooo rpms so it wouldnt have a chance to go below 3000. now it will just jump right down to 3000.
how do i replace the crank angle sensor? i got a code 4</TD></TR></TABLE>
4 or 9 means you need a new dizzy sometimes if limp mode goes away everything is cool. crank angle sensor is the distributor itself.
try this unplug your ecu for 20 minutes and plug it back in drive car. when i took the fuse out for 15 seconds it didnt reset my ecu.
how do i replace the crank angle sensor? i got a code 4</TD></TR></TABLE>
4 or 9 means you need a new dizzy sometimes if limp mode goes away everything is cool. crank angle sensor is the distributor itself.
try this unplug your ecu for 20 minutes and plug it back in drive car. when i took the fuse out for 15 seconds it didnt reset my ecu.
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