Ok, those that HAVE a b20VTEC setup. how high do you rev, and what have you done to do it safely?

I don't want to hear from everyone that's heard all the rumors, like sleeves breaking, rods breaking, etc. I want to know from those who actually have b20vtec setups only!

 

I got a b20b4 block with a gsr head. Endyn 11.6:1 compression pistons, eagle rods, type r girdle, type r oil pump, type r water pump, stock sleeves bored out .05mm to 84.5mm. Gsr head itr outer springs, portflow inner stiff springs, itr valves, ctr cams, titainum retainers, itr intake mani, dc 4-1 jdm style headers, itr tranny, cm stage 3 clutch. I rev to 9000-9500 when i race havent had any problems so far and its been a daily driver for 2yrs.

 

b20z block - stock
b16a1 head - stock
skunk2 IM
stock crx intake
stock b16 exhaust manifold
aebs headstuds
b20 oil pump/waterpump/timing belt
obd-1 conversion

it runs perfect, i take it to ~7500 or so and i know i could take it 1k higher.....

 

b20b jdm block arp rod bolts and golden eagle head studs. Gsr head 01 itr cams and rework of head. I take it to the factory gsr redline no problems.

 

95 cx
block: jdm b20b, balanced crank, eagle rods, cp 12.5:1, arp hardware w/ stock sleeves
head: b16b with skunk2 valvetrain and stage 2 cams
intake: aebs IM, bbk 70mm tb w/ aem short ram
exhaust: A Pro-1 4-1 with a 2.5 collector and a straight 2.5" exhaust

hondata s200 partially tuned, cam gears are still at 0,0
213whp and 157ft/lbs @ ~ 7200rpm

My shift light goes off at 7500 right now. I want to get the tuning finished at some point.

The car is going to be a road course *****, so revving it to the moon is not in the plans at all. I like and will need the nice midrange, I will probably be shifting at 7-7500 on track for reliabilities sake. But I would like it fully tuned for the occasional rip on the street

As it is right now it ran a 12.4 on slicks.

 

my buddy has a b20/vtec (gsr head), with the JRSC 12psi, he does 8200 ish all day.

 

well hey wassup guy well i have a b20/vtec setup in my DA bone stock jdm b20b block and bone stock pr3 jdm head basically bone stock setup all i got is intake stock headers and to be on the safe side i only rev to like 7500 i was told If i would do pistons and some eagle rods, or even just arp rod bolts you could rev it to like 8200. but i'm like paranoid so i keep it on the safe side i never touch 8k rpm well not now at least

 

im currently putting together my b20vtec set up and im going for a 8500 redline. Stock cylinder walls

 

I run a b20z block with custom 12:5.1 pistons, stock rods, stock crank, overbored to 84.5, b16a head fully built with skunk stage 2 cams and valvetrain. I rev to 8500 often without any problems. Motor puts down 204whp on a conservative tune.

 

i have a b20b block and b16 head and i take it to about 7g daily. sometimes ill go up to 7600..

 

my set up :

B20B block stock sleeves
IBSpec wiseco 13:1 84mm...just a lite hone....my block, my car, I can do that.
IBSpec Rods
ACL bearing kit
Square Port B16A head
SuperTech Valve train
TWM ITB's
440cc RC injectors
Blox HSL Cams
GE cam gears
AEBS head studs
Pro-Fab Header
Tanabe exhuast
B16a transmission with CTR LSD
Tuned with crome P28

230whp 150ftlbs RedLine is 9100 RPM
Daily driven on 100oct pump gas here in norcal
car is a 92 civic SI HB weighs 2500lbs

This is my second block, last block lasted 12000 miles ran very hard
I reused same pistons, rods, and crank in new block......

I dont recommend doing what I did with the block, I threw it back together after finding the cracked sleeves just so I can go tot he track for an event.....still holding strong at 9000 miles

 

what happened to your old block? how did you crack the sleeves??

that's the main thing i'm concerned about. my cams make power to 9500rpm. i'm trying to find anyone who's revving that high on stock sleeves. i can't afford to have to build another setup after blowing one up.

 

the sleeves on a b20 are not as strong as the b18 sleeves.....the design of the sleeves and the way they are made on the b20 are different from the b18.....im sure seeing 9500 every time the car was ran didn't help the life of the sleeves......if you keep it under 9 or better yet under 8500 then im sure it will be fine....

if a sleeve does crack it does not necessarily mean that you will lose the entire engine....I cracked all 4 sleeves and I was able to reuse my pistons and rods, along with the crank.......I don't really recommend the way i reused the pistons ( just putting them in the block with a lite hone ) but it worked for what i intended it to work for.....one race...but its still working fine.....

 

I rev to 9.5k no problems. But I dont beat on my motor either.

97 B20b JDM Block

12:5:1 Wiseco pistons
Eagle Rods
ACL bearings
Mirco Polished GSR Oil Pump
Knife Edge Crank
Balanced & Blue Printed
GSR Pan & Pick up
ARP head studs & rod bolts

99 B16a2 Head

Full Port and Polish
7 Angle Valve Job
Crower Over size Valves
Crower Springs & Retainers
Skunk2 Stage 1 cams
AEM- Cam Gears, Fuel Rail, FPR, Spark Plug cover
STR cam Seals
Full MSD
DC Sports 4-1 header
AEBS Intake --Polished
Holly 70mm Tb
J's Racing Air Intake
Rc 310cc
Hondata Intake Gaskett
Hondata S200 / P28
Custom EBP Valve cover / Cut for cam gears

97 GSR Tranny
ACT---HD PP, SS disc, 7lb flywheel
GSR axels

 

B20B
12.5 to 1 JE's
Crower rods
stock sleeves
Stock GSR head
CTR cams
YS1 tranny
VAFC tuned

Revved to 9300 rpm for 6 months, no problems thus far. Been 12.92's @ 108mph on 225 drag radials.

Sam

 

yea, I don't worry about sleeves, that's not the issue, it's for those people that are running stock pistons (notched), it's not a great idea to rev up too far past 8k...