Just wanted to put this up for others wanting to research setups.



my car has awesome midrange, only letdown is the low peak compared to midrange. but car drives awesome

my setup for the tech nuts:

B18b block
OS pr3 pistons
Stock 89 b16 head
CTR cams
cam gears
portflow valvesprings
ITR intake manifold
2.5" CAI
JDM 4-1 header
2.5" cat
2.25 exhaust
hondata s200

i know shauns dyno reads high.. but i'm sitll happy with the numbers, especially awesome torque. cam gears were set at +3 intake -1 exhaust
vtec set at 5100, 8600 redline

since then, i've upgraded to a 3" CAI, and looking for a toda header. maybe m22's if i can swing some more compression

hope this helps some of you


Modified by Oldskool teggy at 5:15 AM 5/20/2005


Modified by oldskool teggy at 3:24 PM 2/27/2008

 

How much do you think those valve springs contribute to the power?

Nice numbers

 

i dont think valvesprings contributed to anything.. just there for protection.

 

 

Whats up with that dip in HP?

 

You throw some M22's at that with a Toda header and that thing will be bananas!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You throw some M22's at that with a Toda header and that thing will be bananas! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Let me hear you say this **** is bananas
B-A-N-A-N-A-S
(This **** is bananas)
(B-A-N-A-N-A-S)

 

This thread instills faith in my LSVTEC build.

I hope to hit 195whp with P30's and Skunk2 Stage 1's.

GREAT TORQUE.

 

sweet, great power for the mild parts you have!! The 3" intake and toda header should easily get you 200+. What injectors are you runnin??

 

hmm... i wonder how much less hp i'm making than you for not having the head mods like you.

 

nice numbers for the light mods...with that in mind, hopefully I'll hit a lil' over 200hp mark with my set up.....

the todas will definitely bump it up.

 

Those numbers are damn good for having CTR cams, and that torque is amazing...

I'd like to see the numbers on a dynojet though...

 

What's that translate into for a dynojet? They seem like pretty impressive numbers considering all that you have

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats up with that dip in HP?</TD></TR></TABLE>

its not a dip.. its the AEM HUMP

about the power compared to a dynojet... i'm going to assume anywhere around 175-185. but thats not really the big deal here. the big deal is 146.8 lbs torque @ 6000, and 168 whp @ 6000. on a dynojet that might transelate to 140 trq and 158 whp @ 6000. bring those numbers down to dynojet numbers.. no one can argue that its a lot of midrange.

i used this as a reference http://m24x.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=1993

his graph was done on the same exact dynopack mine's was. although weather conditions could have been different, we are both using the same tuner and both using hondata. look at his mods and then look at mine. compare his curve to mine at every rpm.

his motor is awesome and much faster than mine.. but i drive my car on the street alot and i love the way it feels around town. bedies i dont want to rev that high anyway. good luck to all of you doing lsvtec builds. i hope you are as happy with yours as i am with mine


Modified by Oldskool teggy at 11:59 PM 5/17/2005

 

btw, i'm using prelude obd2 injectors and modified clips. i had to bump the fuel down alot. stock setting woudl run waaaaay too rich

 

bump cuz the damn search engine isnt working

 

nice set up!! i have a few questions.when did it stop making power?8000 rpm?did you do anything else to the block?bearings,rod bolts,head studs, girdle?what compresion you at?hows your gas mileage? thanks

 

well, it stops making power at 7500, just like the dyno shows, but you feel it stop pulling after 6500 when the torque starts dying. so i dont shift past 8200.

i have arp rod bolts and acl bearings.
vtec water pump and oil pump,
stock LS head gasket, inline four dowel pins
i'm running gs-r head bolts. no girdle
i assume compression to be about 11.3:1
last time i filled up i had 28 MPG, and use 91 oct chevron gas

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Oldskool teggy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, it stops making power at 7500, just like the dyno shows, but you feel it stop pulling after 6500 when the torque starts dying. so i dont shift past 8200.

i have arp rod bolts and acl bearings.
vtec water pump and oil pump,
stock LS head gasket, inline four dowel pins
i'm running gs-r head bolts. no girdle
i assume compression to be about 11.3:1
last time i filled up i had 28 MPG, and use 91 oct chevron gas</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice numbers , very similiar to my future set up. Did you get the regular acl bearings which would be similiar to honda's "green" bearings?
and is it the whole acl bearing set?

thanks

 

makes me wonder if i should still buy a type r swap, lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lil Corb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nice numbers , very similiar to my future set up. Did you get the regular acl bearings which would be similiar to honda's "green" bearings?
and is it the whole acl bearing set?

thanks

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah just the normal ones

 

Great numbers. What was the total bill (ballpark) if you don't mind me asking? I'm still undecided as to what I want to build to replace my high mileage D15B7.

 

spent $1000 on the block. bought it used. i used to have a b16 with ctr cams in my car, so i took the head from that and put it on the block.

i traded my tranny and b16 short block for labor to install it.
about $150 for timing belt, head gasket, and dowel pins
IHE were all on my b16 at the time.
bought a hondata for $300 here on HT, and dyno tuning was $300

id say all together it ran about $2500-3000 total. including my bolt ons and b16, and tuning