I'm wanting to completely bypass my heater hoses. Seems like one more useless thing to worry about. Am I correct on the hose configuration? Just dont want to fry my new motor.

I was thinking about moving the heater hose on the back of the motor (the one on the water rail in the first pic) to here. Seems like a simple bypass to me. Am I missing anything?

 

i dunno bosco. having the heater as an emergency backup radiator has saved my butt a few times. get the silicone goodyear hi-miler hoses and you should be ok. just a thought.

 

i have bypassed a leaking heater core that way without any issues. went a full summer, only issue i had was no heat in the mornings! (shiver)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchofchrist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have bypassed a leaking heater core that way without any issues. went a full summer, only issue i had was no heat in the mornings! (shiver) </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've done the same thing, thats funny.

It is a simple bypass, loop the two hoses, the one from the one going to the heater, to the one going from the heater. As simple as that, but keeping the core as a backup radiator like rustyhatch said might be something to consider.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but keeping the core as a backup radiator like rustyhatch said might be something to consider. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would consider this, but my dash is completely stripped of all controls. I put a radiator fan on a toggle switch. If I happen to need more than that one day, It will probably be a larger problem than a heater could handle. Thanks for the info.

 

I too would be interested in what people have done for heater bypass but for a D16A6 CRX racecar. I had a water heat and circulation issue recenty and think my simple bypass (heater line out of engine looped to return line) may have casued my water to simply cricluate back into the engine and not get to the radiator properly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bosco500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would consider this, but my dash is completely stripped of all controls. I put a radiator fan on a toggle switch. If I happen to need more than that one day, It will probably be a larger problem than a heater could handle. Thanks for the info.
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I plan to just leave it on (the valve) as I have checked with a few folks that say turning it manually on the firewall (engine bay side) is easy enough if you want to shut off the heater valve. I accidentally snapped the control when removing it (twice actually, they seem pretty fragile). This is for a CRX however, not sure if its the same on your integra.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I too would be interested in what people have done for heater bypass but for a D16A6 CRX racecar. I had a water heat and circulation issue recenty and think my simple bypass (heater line out of engine looped to return line) may have casued my water to simply cricluate back into the engine and not get to the radiator properly.

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that's what I did and I haven't had any problems Lee.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SJR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's what I did and I haven't had any problems Lee.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My family is leaving for 4-5 days this weekend so I'll get back to the racecar. I am going to drain my cooling system and replace my thermostat and pull the Autometer water temp sensor out and put it in boiling water to make sure it is really working. If I am lucky, this is my issue and not something bigger.

 

I plugged the end of each so no bypass hose is required.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bdb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I plugged the end of each so no bypass hose is required.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did the same.

 

Ran with them plugged but I didn't like how the plugs were holding up. No issues when they were plugged.

Ran a bypass hose. No issues.

I do know of a racer that mixed up the two hose bibs (?) on the firewall side on a D16Z. They are side by side & the same size. One is suppose to loop to the head & one if for the heater. Water didn't circulate properly & he ended up blowing the head gasket!

 

Engine pictured in my previous post is my H22. I'm using an OEM Honda bolt and washer (& loctite) to seal the water port in the head.



#1 & #2 -- 20mm sealing bolt & washer.

 

The guys from Stock Car Magazine that built a serious dirt track car out of an EF had a lot of trouble when they simply pluges their lines. They screwed up several engines or heads before they realized that they were starving one side of the head for coolant by not letting it be fed by the return line. I just asked them about it after my issue. If I still have the text at home, I will post it.

 

please post up the article cause now I'm curious if I should run a simple line between them instead.

 

Lee makes sense (since somebody else already provided the hard evidence!). What am I talking about.... Lee ALWAYS makes sense!

Anyway, Am I correct to say that leaving the heater lines the way they are (and the heater installed) could help bring down coolant temps when you run the heater during the race. Isn't it almost equivalent to having a second (much smaller) radiator?

On the hot days I turn the heater up full blast to help reduce coolant/engine temps. If doing this doesn't aid in coolant-heat disipation then I will stop doing it but I don't think I'm crazy.