ok, here's the deal...the car is a 96 integra LS with Koni Yellows, Ground control coilovers, Function-7 LCA's, Prothane bushings, Comptech rear lower tie bar with oversized sway bar, and Ingall's camber kit for the front and rear.

The dilemma is:
I want to put a "true" set of coilovers on the car with function-7's type R rear LCA's that are separately height adjustable from the spring preload. The car will be a daily driver, but it will see some autocrossing...any help would be greatly appreciated.
TIA,
Jeff

 

Progress. http://progressauto.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Progress. http://progressauto.com
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah if your going to buy suspension it's a good idea to buy them from a place that has vehicle specific applications rather than just modifying another app and using it.

I have these edelbrocks with custom eibachs and so far I've liked them more than any other set up I've had, except a set of advanced designs which were more track and less street than you probably want, and there a bit more money

 

I won't be modifying anything. I will be putting type R rear LCA's on the car so the the coilovers are a direct bolt on.

 

boostin. how do you like your Function 7's. i just ordered some.


i've seen alot of good feedback on the D2 coilovers, at least for them being $800.

why do you want to stray from your Konis? you are pretty much just going to be trading in an awesome combo for something probably not as good in a full coilover(at least in the sub $1000 area)
if you are going to be running higher spring rates just send in your koni's and get them revalved.
i would think if you are looking for some REAL quality coilovers better then the koni setup u currently have, you are going to be talking about some cash. LEDA, Ground control coilovers, ohlins. some double adjustables maybe, with external resorvoir. dang . makes me want to sell my 54 chevy just for some coilovers for my EG

 

Don't notice anything different with the rear LCA's, but I want to get rid of the koni's. I have had them since the summer, and they are already leaking on me. I had my first set for around a year and a half and they started leaking. I took them back to Koni(like a half hour from my house) and they replaced them for free, but my car was up on jack stands for over a month because they were dicking around about getting my new ones mailed to me. So, I would just like to get away from them all together and step up to something a bit more adjustable for corner weighting and aligning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostinb20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So, I would just like to get away from them all together and step up to something a bit more adjustable for corner weighting and aligning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

uhhh can you explain how you can cornerweight or align any different with "true" coilover vs Koni/GCs? Also, what rates are you running on the GC's now?

 

wow. sorry to hear about the koni's
what kind of spring rates were you running. i think the few people i know that autocross all have koni/gc setup. but they said anything over 400lbs really need to be revalved.
i'm in the market for some coilovers myself in the next 2 weeks.
i was looking at the D2's $800
and the Apexi N1 EXV but i haven't been able to get a firm answer on the spring rates. i've seen 12k/4k listed. and then i've seen 8k/6k. if it's 8k/6k i might go with those. or 9k/7k on the D2's
i've seen a few people say that the D2's internal shock components aren't super high quality. but you can rebuild them easily.
and i'm just not impressed by any of the Teins.
if i had the money i think i'd go with the Ground control advance design. double adjustable, titanium internals. Yummy. but $399 each damper

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridmoments &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">boostin. how do you like your Function 7's. i just ordered some
i've seen alot of good feedback on the D2 coilovers, at least for them being $800.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The coilovers I posted are not much more and since there suspension department is an OEM supplier and has been working in off road racing for quite some time they are designed to be incredibly durable

And since there an inverted strut design and use the best springs availiable standard they are incredibly smooth but hold extremely well.

The cornering force in my 4 door with stock tires is @ a higher level than the c6. I only know becuase he was tailigating me onto the freeway and I did'nt feel very comfortable since it's an inclined 180 and I 've seen alot of cars spin off it driving that way.

 

stromy. you mean the edelbrock ones?
i heard those came with 250/150 springs for the civic?? is that true. and they have their limitations when going with higher spring rates?


i really would like the Advanced Designs. but those go for $1600 just for the dampers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stormy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The cornering force in my 4 door with stock tires is @ a higher level than the c6. I only know becuase he was tailigating me onto the freeway and I did'nt feel very comfortable since it's an inclined 180 and I 've seen alot of cars spin off it driving that way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow how scientific ... a guy in a C6 was tailgating you around a corner = more "cornering force" (whatever that means) than a C6?

 

Yay!

Lets throw away our proven, lifetime warrantied, rebuildable/revalvable, easily serviceable in the US Konis for some **** "JDM" coil over that just dont work as well. You can run up to 550-600# springs on the Konis without any worry. Just because it comes anodized in a pretty box with purple or green springs doesnt mean it is a quality product.

Real smart.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stormy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The cornering force in my 4 door with stock tires is @ a higher level than the c6. I only know becuase he was tailigating me onto the freeway and I did'nt feel very comfortable since it's an inclined 180 and I 've seen alot of cars spin off it driving that way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're an idiot.

 

the koni's are not as adjustable as the N1's or the Type Flex...and like the koni's, the other two ARE rebuildable here in the US. As for what spring rates...they are whatever come in the standard coilover for the koni shocks for an integra. Yes the set up I have is nice, but it is not working out for me reliability wise. If you think I am such an idiot for getting rid of them, then buy my setup from me so you can be that much faster than my soon to be inferior setup on the road course.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostinb20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the koni's are not as adjustable as the N1's or the Type Flex...</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is absolutely NOT true. There is *more* adjustment range, and most importantly in the low speed damping.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and like the koni's, the other two ARE rebuildable here in the US. As for what spring rates...they are whatever come in the standard coilover for the koni shocks for an integra. </TD></TR></TABLE>

"fix" the spring rates. 400f/500r is a very good comprimise.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Yes the set up I have is nice, but it is not working out for me reliability wise.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What is not reliable about this?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If you think I am such an idiot for getting rid of them, then buy my setup from me so you can be that much faster than my soon to be inferior setup on the road course.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I already have a set of revalved konis sitting in my garage waiting for the next project and a set of them on my BMW

 

What spring rates are you currently running?

Why is pre-load adjustment important to you?

Why do you think having a separate height adjustment from spring-preload aids in corner weighing, or aligning?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stormy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


The cornering force in my 4 door with stock tires is @ a higher level than the c6. I only know becuase he was tailigating me onto the freeway and I did'nt feel very comfortable since it's an inclined 180 and I 've seen alot of cars spin off it driving that way.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Hahahahahahaha. Thank you. Today was lingering on... but that's laugh out loud funny.

Hey guys, I'm quicker than Valentino Rossi, because this one time, a Yamaha motorcycle was following me on an offramp and I went faster and so because Vale rides a Yamaha motorcycle, and I'm faster than all Yamaha's in all the known (and unknown) universe while merging, I must therfore be faster than Vale.

Elementary, Watson ... elementary.

 

I would like to not rely on my overall ride height when doing my corner weighting, that is why I would like a coilover that has seperate height and preload adjustments

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostinb20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would like to not rely on my overall ride height when doing my corner weighting, that is why I would like a coilover that has seperate height and preload adjustments</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why?

Your preload is the weight on that corner of the car. You cant make it go away. I had a chance to drive two pretty similar hondas on track this spring, with the same spring rates and same tires - one car had Konis, the other car had the Buddy Club "true coilovers". The Koni car definately handled better..

 

It's so that you can look like an uuber dork when someone comes up and measures your car and finds one side is 1/2" higher than the other!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
"fix" the spring rates. 400f/500r is a very good comprimise.</TD></TR></TABLE>

500r's are going to feel like welded shocks in the rear, this is not a compromise for a street car this is a set up for auto x where speed bumps and concrete expansion and pot holes are not an issue, I have 200r eibachs and they are challenging at times.

second of all without the benefit of a skid pad handy a smooth constant radius paved surface like a 180 incline is a pretty good way to determine cornering capabilities and he was pushing it.

I could have just said it's the same guy who took off after me on my way back down from crystal lake and who got p3wned by a stock civic for 13 straight miles in front of his girlfriend for it. but due to the fact it's a public road and the conditions of it are at best adverse I will give him that it would have been suicide to chase someone who's driven that road for over 10 years now in a vette or otherwise even though it was'nt even @ reckless speeds.

If you want to come back out to cali I'll let you borrow an integra for 2 days with the rates you mentioned and when your teeth fall out, you can gum me an idiot.




Modified by stormy at 8:18 PM 4/8/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stormy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">500r's are going to feel like welded shocks in the rear, this is not a compromise for a street car this is a set up for auto x where speed bumps and concrete expansion and pot holes are not an issue,</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're an idiot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I ran 650# springs on Konis on the street without any problems, other than the car being too low.

 

i run 500lb rears every day... my back and teeth are in perfect working order... maybe you need to quit being a *****?

 

can everyone quit bitching at each other??? I honestly don't give a f*ck if you disagree on something...just state your opinion on MY question, then move the f*ck on...you're all being a bunch of whining bastards

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostinb20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can everyone quit bitching at each other??? I honestly don't give a f*ck if you disagree on something...just state your opinion on MY question, then move the f*ck on...you're all being a bunch of whining bastards</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you're missing some of the important points brought up already. There are some folks already giving you VG advice & asking pertinent questions based on real world track experience, and others just listing what they think based on their limited if any knowledge.

If you want opinions based on hearesay and limited wisdom you might want to try another forum.

 

I have heard what people are saying and I understand what they are saying...that is not what I have a problem with. It is just that people are telling me to keep a set up that I am not satisfied with. I do NOT like the koni yellows; they leak, the stroke is not short enough(i.e. they are nearly fully compressed and riding on the bump stops), and the reliability issues I have had with them are not acceptable for me. My car IS a daily driver, it sees SOME autocrossing, and I want a set up that has the spring preload adjustments made seperate from the ride height adjustments(call me gay if I want my car to look a certain way AND drive a certain way, but it is afterall my car), and most of all, I want a set up that will not be leaking gas or oil within the first couple months of being on the car.