I got a buddy thats intent on buillding a b20vtec to swap into his CRX. I'm trying to convince him to go with the B16a1.
here's what I think:
The b16 is a relatively straightforward swap, requiring no modifications to the CRX engine bay other than hammering the shock tower.
The b16 full swap can be had for $1500 + s&h from HMO, while a b20vtec would cost considerably more to build right (am I correct on this?)
Powerwise, assuming the b20vtec uses OEM internals to keep costs as low as possible, you'd be looking at maybe 10 more hp out of the b20 over the b16, which is not worth the headaches and cost.
The CRX does not need a lot of power ot get it going because it is a light car. The B16a1's 160hp and whatever torque should be fine.

Now he's up in the air about it. He wants the b20vtec for the extra displacement, more "stock" power, and "uniqueness". He keeps saying "everyone has a b16" and that he wants to be different, but its not like he'd be the first one with a b20vtec.
So are my points correct? I'm guessing a b20vtec using an Si head and stock b20 pistons would cost $3k to put together correctly (labor included), while the B16a1 can be had for $2k shipped to his door. He is deadset on NA, I can't change his mind on that, so think NA route in terms of power potential.

 

the b20vtec would eat up the b16 without even trying.

The torque from the b20 DEMOLISHES the b16. I would go b20vtec over a b16 any day.

 

let him try and do it....and then you can tell him...."b16a" and for your own knowledge you don't need to bang up to the shock tower.. Just get a belt that's about 3/16" smaller. saves your chasis from unnecessary bruises and scars...

 

b20vtec........more fun/ damn the cost

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Onimacus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the b20vtec would eat up the b16 without even trying.
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I WOULD DEF GO WITH THE B20/VTEC!!!

but for cost I think he should get the B16 swap then upgrade to the B20 bottom end later.

 

Pretty surprised at your answers. I figured more would chime in for the b16.
In his case, it seems like cost IS a concern, but not the dealbreaker. Unless we're talking some crazy bananas $$$. He seems so set on the b20vtec, in the end I said "If you want the b20vtec that bad, go for it. Its your money, b16a1 is only my suggestion."
Burly: thanks for the tip on the belt, but would I have to modify/get a smaller pulley as well?

 

A stock B20 vtec will never out-rev a B16A. Race your stock B20 VTEC against my B16A and see what happens...

 

what does revving have to do with the fact that the b20vtec has 20 more lbs of torque.

A b20vtec can keep up with a b18c.

another point, why would you want to race a stock b20vtec vs. something you obviously have put a lot of money into. That is far from even fair.

a comparibly built b20vtec can destroy a b16. but as everyone knows, whats people start saying "well my engine has this done to it
" then it just depends on who has the most money. As far as stock for stock, a b20 vs a b16 is a drivers race but 9 tmes out of 10 i would put my money on the b20.

 

id go b20vtec just cause of the torque. but just make sure he know about those weak sleeves when he wants to upgrade it.

 

http://www.automotiveforums.co...61203

 

b20/vtec is nice but you gotta get them built right. For cost the B16 is better but if you got it like that then B20/vtec.

 

I think that if you gave the B20 VTEC a B16 transmission, it would probably put the hurt on the B16 car. I have seen it happen with B18B's at the track before; so I am just assuming that it would do the same... But yeah the B16 is much more affordable.

 

b16's stock are torqueless. B20-v will murder it off the line.

 

a b16 is by far the best bet.Money wise at least, and a b16 is just cooler imo.

 

B20/VTECs SUCK! you cant rev em. they have weak blocks. yea they make a lot of torque, but how much do you freakin want in a go kart? LSVtec all the way. its cheaper anyways cuz you dont have to fork out close to $1000 for the motor alone cuz NO ONE will sell a b20 block by itself. u can find an LS block all day long for like $300, plus its a WAY stronger block anyways. yes a b16 is cheaper but will be 160hp, prob like 120-130whp. my friends STOCK LSVTEC made 164whp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXSiSage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> b16 is just cooler imo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A B20VTeC is off the hezzy.....for shezzy...my nezzee

 

i have both a b20vtec and a b16. which do i like better? of course the b20vtec. driving around the city is easy since you have the torque down low. you don't need to spend your city driving in vtec at all times to keep up with traffic.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ch3mik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B20/VTECs SUCK! you cant rev em. they have weak blocks. yea they make a lot of torque, but how much do you freakin want in a go kart? </TD></TR></TABLE>
b20vtec's can be made to rev. endyn has a b20 that was reving to 10,200 before it blew up. and there's nothing wrong with having more torque. yes driving around the city doing 5000+ rpm is fun but i'd rather be driving it at 2500 and have more torque than you do at 5000

 

First off for a b20/vtec to be done properly, your gonna need new pistons and rods and rod bolts, you don't need to resleeve it. And if you do everything said above, you can rev to 7800 safely.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ch3mik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B20/VTECs SUCK! you cant rev em. they have weak blocks. yea they make a lot of torque, but how much do you freakin want in a go kart? </TD></TR></TABLE>

You can rev a b20/vtec safely to 7800

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ch3mik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u can find an LS block all day long for like $300, plus its a WAY stronger block anyways. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not gonna say an ls block can't be found for cheap, a friend would sell me his for 50 bucks. But the way stronger comment really should not be used, yes the ls cylinder walls are better then the stock b20's, but overall you should be keeping the rev limiter for an ls/vtec and a b20/vtec around the same area ( I.E , 7800 for a b20/vtec, 8,00 for an ls/vtec ). And if your gonna do an ls/vtec, a gsr block would be better to use, since it can support a girdle. But gsr blocks don't run cheap either.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ch3mik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. yes a b16 is cheaper but will be 160hp, prob like 120-130whp. my friends STOCK LSVTEC made 164whp. </TD></TR></TABLE>

But if you do a b20/vtec right, you can make around 210 to 240whp

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a@9krpm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A stock B20 vtec will never out-rev a B16A. Race your stock B20 VTEC against my B16A and see what happens...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well if you do a b20/vtec right ( I.E pistons, rods, new rod bolts ) you can rev a b20/vtec to 7800 safely. So lets see, about a 400 rpm difference and what the difference in hp ?


You can always build an engine up the cheap and easy way, or the right way which will be expensive.

You basically have 3 choices, pay around $800 bucks just for a b20 block
Or buy an ls block ( gsr if you want the girdle ) bore out the ls and re-sleeve it, and you will almost be around $800 dollars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off for a b20/vtec to be done properly, your gonna need new pistons and rods and rod bolts, you don't need to resleeve it. And if you do everything said above, you can rev to 7800 safely.

You can rev a b20/vtec safely to 7800

But if you do a b20/vtec right, you can make around 210 to 240whp
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with the amount and parts ive put into my LSvtec I have yet to see a b20vtec make more than me without hondata AND cams. 210whp B20vtec? I havent seen one without cams , everybolt on imaginable, AND hondata.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ch3mik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

with the amount and parts ive put into my LSvtec I have yet to see a b20vtec make more than me without hondata AND cams. 210whp B20vtec? I havent seen one without cams , everybolt on imaginable, AND hondata.

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You bump the compression you can make around that. But if your gonna build it right, then your gonna get cams sooner or later also

 

sounds like u should like the zc more than the b16a

 

ok i just posted thread on this sorta

i have a b20vtec now. i had a b16 and i just brought a gsr block....the b20 block is stock and i did 13.7 all motor and 12.7 with a 70 shot....i like the torque but the gsr's have torque too b16 ..hahah ...after riding in a 1.8 liter crx you'll never want a b16 again lol....well yeah i heard gsr blocks are better than b20 (which is true) so i got it im gonna see for sure which is better...both blocks are stock......i say if you're gonna change your block you might as well get a GSR

 

i have a b16 jdm how much does the swap to a b20 ruffly run ? i need more power hehe..!

 

well i got my block for 250 i think maybe 350....but i think 250...this is block only...thats all i needed...we went to the junkyard to rip it out of the crv....

 

Why not get the B16 and install it...get it running and what not. Then in your spare time and with spare cash build up a B20 block. When it comes time, swap the B16 head on the block and put back in the car. Then either sell the B16 block or keep for a spare.