This is posted in the DIY Traction Bar thread, but I realize a lot of you guys aren't subscribed so I figured I would throw it in here to show the EF crowd what I've been up to.

Here is how I spent my spring break!

This is pretty much the entire process I went through, it is extremely graphic and I hope it will help everyone get an idea of how this whole deal works a little better.

1

I wanted to use a tow-hook style traction bar. The first line of duty was to remove the stock piece and use the CMD to measure the coordinates of the stock holes...this way I was able to use the stock mounting location.



2

Here, you can see us drawing the new pice on CAD software, this is the piece that will replace the towhooks.



3

Here we used the software from CAD to plasma cut the tabs. Also, the tabs which connect the radius rod arms to the x-member were drawn as previously described and cut in the same fashion



4

You can see the tabs that we are using to mount the radius rod arms to the x-member...not that one is slightly longer than the other and the oval holes. This is to compensate for the angle at which they will sit and to make sure the mounting hardware lies parallel to the x-member.



5

This picture is a little difficult to describe. This is the piece that is used to mount the radius rod arms to the LCA. The block in the middle was simply being used as a brace for welding.



6

Here is the taping of the solid steel tubing to produce the tube adapters. These will slide into the end of our hollow radius rod arms to allow the rod ends to thread in.



7

This is the finished tube adapter.



8

This is a picture of the collapsable mock-up radius rod arm. You can see the smaller diamter tubing inside the larger tubing, they are free to move in and out of eachother acting like a strut.



9

This is an akward angle, but you can see the mock-up rod arm is attatched to the x-member and the lower control arm. We then cycled the suspension, if the thing tube moved...we were able to determine that binding would occur. This is just a trial and error process of moving the tabs to find the correct length. We had a very tough time getting it nailed down perfectly, but we got it EXTREMELY close. Boy I wish I woulda read L-con's post above before making this



10

The front x-member with the tabs hanging, once the proper lenth of radius rod arms was determined they were tacked into the correct position.



11

This is the knurling process on the finished radius rod arm to allow for some grip upon making caster adjustments.



12

And finally, the finished product awaiting powdercoating.





I ran into a lot of things that I think I could give some input on, so let me know if you need any help.

Big thanks to L-con for his idea of using the collapsable mock-up rod arms

Sean

 

dammmmmmmmmmyeum, would u make a phew or just for ur self?

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TIRENECK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dammmmmmmmmmyeum, would u make a phew or just for ur self?</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is by no means a classified post, but I have considered selling them on an on-order-basis if I could get 5+ orders. It's just something I have considered, I guess I will wait and see what the interest would be.

 

Holy ****.

Those are pretty much exactly like the L-con traction bars!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spankjelly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is by no means a classified post, but I have considered selling them on an on-order-basis if I could get 5+ orders. It's just something I have considered, I guess I will wait and see what the interest would be. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Id be interested in one... let us know how it holds up, looks great!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboLSef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Id be interested in one... let us know how it holds up, looks great!! </TD></TR></TABLE>


me too....

 

So how much are they gonna be jk

Looks nice,

 

crafty

 

awesome work...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchBox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how much are they gonna be jk

Looks nice, </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I've been getting a lot of PM's about this and IF i were to get enough interest to do a couple orders they would probably be anywhere from 250-300, I'd have to look into the costs etc.

 

nice work! got pics of the rest of the car project? looks good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eggman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice work! got pics of the rest of the car project? looks good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here's a quick look at the car that kid-honda took while he was down helping with the ES bushing install

 

cool! cool! And I thought I was the only one who had to have a CMM, Cad, Cam, and a CNC machining center to do anything! I like your plasma cutter, I don't have one of those but can sometimes get time in one of the mills at work. Nice work!
chris

 

nice job on the traction bar it looks really good!


Modified by ELAMINT5 at 4:50 PM 3/22/2005

 

looks good

 

great job man.. loving the 88/89 - looks like it's in great shape

 

wow....excellent design and excecution.

looks very nice.

have you thougth about bracing it to the holes that the factory crossmember bolts to though? under heavy breaking, there will be a LOT of force pulling on those six little tow hook bolts, but in reality it should be OK........just a thought.

 

plasma cutting machines are a lot of fun

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow....excellent design and excecution.

looks very nice.

have you thougth about bracing it to the holes that the factory crossmember bolts to though? under heavy breaking, there will be a LOT of force pulling on those six little tow hook bolts, but in reality it should be OK........just a thought. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's a really good idea, I'll have to look into that.

Future plans are to implement a tow hook onto the x-member, but I have to wait til the bumper get back on and find out exactly how to design the thing to fit. It'll be the round benen style.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">great job man.. loving the 88/89 - looks like it's in great shape</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks man, I had thought about changing to the 90-91 front end but it's growing on me. It's got some oxidation issues peeking its ugly head around the rear quarter panels, but I've got two rust free ones that will be goign in early this summer.

 

VERY nice. i like that you actually made it to funtion (testing for binding) rather then just welding up what looked good. if you did decide to sell i would mostlikely be interested.

a few questions:

1. are the radius rods reverse threaded?
2. why didnt you support the main bar to the stock mounnt location on the frame rail like full-race does? to mean it seems like a good idea, as it removes the bending moment and a lot of the force applied to the tow hook plate. and it baffles me why no one does it.

design suggestions:
1. add that support that i was just talking about
2. drill a hole in the tow hook plate and have the main bar actually go through it.

thats just what i would do either way, the welding looks great and looks like a great piece. good job

 

wow, i never seen someone do a diy like that. for all that cool computer and cutting stuff.

 

I'd buy one. Let me know when you are ready for deposits.

 

Wow 7month old thread back from the dead.