hello everybody

after a long struggle i decided to sell my tiny garrett t15 and go with a T3.

but now i think i have clearance issue with the turbo/block . i didnt test fit that setup yet but i was wondering what you think.

this is my turbo/manifold setup



could i keep the a/c?(slim fan is no problam)


best regards moshik galimidi

 

flip the turbo around, so the internal wastegate is towards the block, if it still hits, lose the internal wastegate and go external wastegate setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oxSLEEPERxo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">flip the turbo around, so the internal wastegate is towards the block, if it still hits, lose the internal wastegate and go external wastegate setup</TD></TR></TABLE>

if i'll flip the turbo there no way that i could keep the A/C. the turbo compressor will sit where the a/c compresor is now.




Modified by RACEPAK at 11:16 AM 2/6/2005

 

Then you may need a new mani.

 

u might have to cut the block

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by u2civic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u might have to cut the block</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha...that was a joke right?

 

Grinding the block is fairly common.

As a last resort (and I do mean last), you can buy a D series head flange and longer head studs. The flange will act as a 3/8" spacer and effectively push everything away from the block by that much. You'll 2 exhaust manifold gaskets and longer studs.

Sonny

 

either you cut the webbing on the block or get a new manifold

 

Wouldnt it be easier to just buy a different manifold to help with the bigger turbo? BTW, what mani is that?

 

Looks like a D series HF manifold to me.

The spacer thing has been done before...there was a guy who bought a flange off of me (I don't sell them any more) in the UK that did that on 2 engines with good results.

Sonny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sonny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


The spacer thing has been done before

</TD></TR></TABLE>

what size of spacer (flange) do you think i'm gonna need to get the job done?

also... how do i remove my manifold studs? clockwise vise grip?


i'm too affraid to cut the block. and i'm not even sure that will help.

can somone please post a side pictue of a D block and head?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oxSLEEPERxo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it still hits, lose the internal wastegate and go external wastegate setup</TD></TR></TABLE>

AND why should i do that? i can allways make a new brakcet for the WG.

 

Have you tried flipping the turbo around, yet?

 

he hasnt even test fit it way it is!

 

Youre not really cutting the block man, its just webbing bars that stick out and cause us clearance problems, theres MANY people that had to trim/cut them for clearance

Flip the turbo and go external wastegate, but good luck welding on cast

 

flipped:


as you see i have no cleranse problames with the stock WG.
but i want to keep my a/c.
so if the compressor side of the turbo will be on passenger side i could keep my a/c

 

Flip it back to the first way. You may have to cut/shave some webbing off but thats all and it's common. I had to cut an angle in one webbing to fit my turbo on my 2000 GSR. I would have flipped mine around, but I wanted to use an intake filter for the compressor and If it was flipped the AC would be in my way, so If you wanna keep AC, I say put it back to the 1st way you had it. GOOD LUCK and for pics!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACEPAK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
as you see i have no cleranse problames with the stock WG.
but i want to keep my a/c.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

what are you talking about?! Are you ASSuming the engine is a cube with no variation/brackets/protrusions on it? How can you say that you have no clearance problems with the compressor on the drivers side without fitting it? Drawing a red line from the manifold straight down doesn't cut it. Put it on an engine and stop speculating, your project will go much smoother if you actually use a car. good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what are you talking about?! Are you ASSuming the engine is a cube with no variation/brackets/protrusions on it? How can you say that you have no clearance problems with the compressor on the drivers side without fitting it? Drawing a red line from the manifold straight down doesn't cut it. Put it on an engine and stop speculating, your project will go much smoother if you actually use a car. good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanx
i'm not ASSuming... i can visulise it if i put the turbo and manifold on top of my stock manifold.

 

visual doesnt work though man, clearances are always tight and it might work just fine or it might be a total block hack when youre done

Only takes an hours to take off your header on your car and put this one in place

 

how bout you save us all the trouble as just go ******* fit it to your block. jesus christ, is it that hard? Belive it or not it will answer all of your questions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACEPAK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i'm not ASSuming..</TD></TR></TABLE>

liar

 

you can call me a ***** but i can't open the manifold dp bolts with a spanner.

any way.... tomorow i'll go to release the bolts in the shop. to make a test fit and maby a adapter.

 

I have a suggestion... weld to the Manifold a T3 turbo flange at a 45degree angle..
The turbo will be angled in relation to the block..oviously the Compressor section being the farthest from the block

SOmething like this..

 

Who is posing as me? I didn't write that.