This will be going in my 93 inteagra RS. Here is my set up, let me know what u think, if i need to add something or remove something.

B18a1 block
B16 head
p30 pistons+rings
pr3 ECU
shotpeen ls rods-Is this really necessary?
ARP rod bolts
GSR water+oil pump
GSR timing belt
GSR head bolts
Golden eagle ls/vtec conversion kit

or


Modified by 93 InTeGrA Rs at 8:40 PM 2/7/2005

 

don't worry about the rods, they can take abuse, its all about the rod bolts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek9jdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't worry about the rods, they can take abuse, its all about the rod bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are u sure on this?

 

I'm pretty sure you'll be ok with those arp bolts. How about some arp head bolts as well?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by virusiidx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm pretty sure you'll be ok with those arp bolts. How about some arp head bolts as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea those too. Anything else i should get?

 

Can i use a ITR oil pump instead of a gsr? Will a itr oil pump fit on my b18a1 block?

 

It will fit, but I'm sure I've read that a couple years ago Honda began using the same oil pump on all b-series engines. Therefore, it wouldn't make a difference unless one costed you less than the other.

 

yea i found a itr oil pump for like 100 bucks brand new.

 

why not upgrade to forged rods since you'll be having all that out anyway?

 

the ls rods are a weak point too, they're cast rods. Invest in some eagle H-beam rods, they're not that expensive. Don't bother shot peening your stock rods. Might as well get ARP head studs while the head is off. And with a setup like that, i don't recommend revving past 8000 MAX!!! If i had a similar setup i wouldn't rev higher than 7,500. Get some tuning too.

 

Get upgraded rods (someone suggested H-Beam ), use ARP head bolts, ARP rod bolts, and a balanced crank, is addition to what you have listed and you should be fine up to 8000rpm. Reinforcing your block to begin with will pay off later when you upgrade to better cams/valvetrain. Good luck.

 

not really concernd with the head right now. Im really just focusing on the block. I am gonna go ahead and get the GE rods. And y would i need to balance tha crank? Does it not come balanced from tha manufacture? correct me if im wrong.

 

I am building something similar right now. Check it out

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1118097

I would get the crank balanced.

The LS rods with ARP's will be fine.

If you get aftermarket rods you need to get aftermarket pistons. Aftermarket rods use a floating piston pin, unlike the pressed pin of a stock piston/rod combo.
You can modify the rods and pistons to work, but its not worth it. Some people may disagree.

Otherwise everything looks good. I feel the GSR/ITR oil and water pumps are key in a reliable build.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93 InTeGrA Rs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This will be going in my 93 inteagra RS. Here is my set up, let me know what u think, if i need to add something or remove something.

B18a1 block
B16 head
p30 pistons+rings
p30 ECU
shotpeen ls rods-Is this really necessary?
ARP rod bolts
GSR water+oil pump
GSR timing belt
GSR head bolts
Golden eagle ls/vtec conversion kit

or </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds pretty good... u don't need to shot peen the rods but I would just b/c they're already out of the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93 InTeGrA Rs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> And y would i need to balance tha crank? Does it not come balanced from tha manufacture? correct me if im wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it's my understanding that the LS crank isn't balanced to the same specs as say a VTEC crank, so it's not really as reliable at higher RPMs. I would get it balanced.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nub.96ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds pretty good... u don't need to shot peen the rods but I would just b/c they're already out of the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What exactly does shotpeening the rods do?

 

You have a good set up the oil pump question honda uses a different oil pump for the vtec motors cause vtec consumes a fair amount of the oil pressure. If i were you i would of got a PR3 ecu and had it chipped with the Mugan or the Spoon. Did you get the the block machined? If you did, did they match the pistons to the block cause each piston can be thousandths of an inch off and that can be a big factor when the rings seat. I have some what of the same set up as you but i have forged pistons and after market rods. But i think that you will have no problem with this set up. Just one thing to keep in mind try not to go above 8600 rpm cause you will start starve the motor of oil. Nick in az

 

Actually i havnt done anything yet. Im gonna get all my parts together and do it on a weekend

 

Oh and what is the difference between the p30 and pr3? Which one is easier to find and which one is tha least expensive.

 

 

Bout to order my b16a 88-91 (sir-1) swap. Gonna use tha head, ecu, and the pistons. Then sell the rest.

 

everyone i know including myself who has done an ls/vtec basics are usually ls block, b16 head, b16 pistons, type r intake manifold and throttle body. i've seen type r intake manifolds range anywhere from 115-250 and throttle body pretty much average at 200 with all sensors. skunk2, blox, or whatever.

 

I will be getting a skunk2 IM, but thats gonna be further down the road .

 

So is a b16a sir-1 head with pr3 ecu gonna work ok for a ls/vtec in my DA?

 

im not to much of a DA person, but sure it should work just fine u would need other things such as knock sensor. theres a whole article on it which im not sure if i can post other pplz website, pm me and ill link u