so i bought myself a b16.

as you can see the valvetrain is SPOTLESS.
the cylinders have some build up on them.
the honing on the cylinder walls are almost non-existant.

otherwise the motor is clean. i got a power steering pump and a/c compressor/condensor whatever for sale now...

here are the pics... i'll explain and then ask the questions..

motor in the truck we used to get it with.


motor in my garage (GOD DAMN it was heavy.)


the valvetrain.. so purdy.


motor code.


93 on the head, means from a 94 del sol.


valvetrain off and laid out.


something to help with the work


the cylinder wall... as you can see, almost perfectly smooth.


the block, you can see the dirty pistons


the head... looks like normal build up.


block again. ick.


here are my questions:

what can i use to clean the bottom of the head (combustion chambers and valve faces)

i think i should rebuild the bottom end.. its got 100k miles on it. i was thinking new bearings and ctr pistons/rings on the stock rods... do you think i would be ok with stock bore, or will i have to go with overbored pistons?

actally... thats all i have for now.

oh, and just though i'd tell everyone.. full engine/tranny, jdm ecu, and wiring harness... <FONT SIZE="3">$1000.</FONT>

 

doesnt look bad to me it just needs a clean up

 

Try brake cleaner and some simple green and some scrubbing. You could also have it Hottanked.

 

nice come up...lets us know on the install and post pics

 

Brake Clean is fine for the pistons and head surfaces, although I don't think that any part of that enigne is in need of repair or cleaning. Looks like you got a good one . Be sure to use ARP studs when you put it back together to keep that head from dancing around in the upper revs.

 

i would try seafoam, just put it in the cylinder, let it sit for a while, and use papertowels or somethin like that to get it out

 

well for the sheer fact that for $300 i can get ctr pistons with rings and pins shipped to my house.. i want to rebuild it. it will be a great learning experience.

the thing i am unsure of is the bearings.. i have no idea what goes into replacing them, or finding the size and such.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well for the sheer fact that for $300 i can get ctr pistons with rings and pins shipped to my house.. i want to rebuild it. it will be a great learning experience.

the thing i am unsure of is the bearings.. i have no idea what goes into replacing them, or finding the size and such. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Get a Helms manual .

 

Damn clean for 100k! doesn't really look like you gotta clean anything to me... but if you insist, I would use seafoam when the motor is RUNNING after you get it installed. It cleans the carbon buildup very nicely.

 

if you can get some ctr pistons for 300 with rings you might be better off and spend the 50 bucks more and get some nice forged units such as arias or whatnot, then if you end up boosting or whatever they will be bullet proof

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you can get some ctr pistons for 300 with rings you might be better off and spend the 50 bucks more and get some nice forged units such as arias or whatnot, then if you end up boosting or whatever they will be bullet proof </TD></TR></TABLE>


really... im not planning on boost... i would be going for a daily driven motor, hence the higher c/r... if i was boosting, i'd need a lower one...

 

You're better off going .25 over with the CTR's. All motors with any signifigant miles are going to egg slightly. So you'll have to have to take her to a machine shop. But that dosen't cost too much. Can't beat $1000 price tag though! I'm deeper than that into my damn DOHC ZC. Keep us posted!

What's this going in btw?

 

If you're gonna go through all that extra work of getting the CTR pistons put in the block, you might as well get the .020 (.5mm) oversize ones and have your block bored because you're gonna need to slightly machine the tops of the stock rods a little to get those pistons to fit properly. When that's being done just get the machine shop to check the crank journals and micropolish it and order the proper bearings in for it again, now you'll have a next to new engine again. The head will probably need a valve job after all those miles so that will clean up the head for you and give you new seals because it looks to me like that engine was using a little oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're gonna go through all that extra work of getting the CTR pistons put in the block, you might as well get the .020 (.5mm) oversize ones and have your block bored because you're gonna need to slightly machine the tops of the stock rods a little to get those pistons to fit properly. When that's being done just get the machine shop to check the crank journals and micropolish it and order the proper bearings in for it again, now you'll have a next to new engine again. The head will probably need a valve job after all those miles so that will clean up the head for you and give you new seals because it looks to me like that engine was using a little oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nah. the head was rebuilt it looks like. its next to new.

what do you think redoing the bottom end will cost me?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


really... im not planning on boost... i would be going for a daily driven motor, hence the higher c/r... if i was boosting, i'd need a lower one...</TD></TR></TABLE>


FYI you throw CTR pistons in there and you will need some kinda of tunning, they put me with a b18c5 up into the 12.x:1 compression ratio. so with the shorter deck height of the b16a you would be up there

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

nah. the head was rebuilt it looks like. its next to new.

what do you think redoing the bottom end will cost me?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't really be able to tell you since I'm in Canada and prices would vari. I'd just call a reputable machine shope close to you for pricing info.

 

looks damn good, i would just run it, it looks sooo clean as far as i have ever seen in an engine. The only thing cleaner than that i have seen was my mitsubishi 1.8 sohc engine. I took that thing down because the head gasket went, that thing was BEAUTIFUL. THat engine is still running strong to this day, doesn't burn oil, no more head gasket problems, over 160,000 miles. i miss my little eclipse

 

yeah... im gonna test the rings, and if they are good, i'll prob. just swap it in with some ctr cams or something, and stick with the stock pistons.

 

damn nice

 

to answer your question about cleaning.........get yourself an air die grinder, and use a wire "cup brush" attachment, that and some brakleen will do wonders for your carbon build up

my head was terrible, so i just had the machine shop clean it for me turned out nice i think, it cost around $40 to have it vatted and cleaned, here is what it looked like afterwards

 

is it safe to use the cup brush on the valves and pistons?

 

get it hot tanked, its cheap and easy....

 

can i get it hot tanked while the bottom end and head are still assembled (not connected to each other)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it safe to use the cup brush on the valves and pistons?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, just be gentle, you don't have to use very much pressure just let the the brush do the job.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can i get it hot tanked while the bottom end and head are still assembled (not connected to each other)</TD></TR></TABLE>not real sure about that, you would have to call the machine shop and ask them

 

very nice find for the price...looks clean...goodluck

bump for usdm b16a3