Decided to post a few pictures up, just b/c while there are three general ideas of how to remove these rotor screws, none of them had pictures.

Before someone has a cow, these are not the wheels/tires i'm selling

Things to dispel:

1) impact screwdriver, will really, really work. - Maybe on someone elses car....this had no chance at all of working for me in my scenario. 35k miles and first time replacing rotors.

2) use a hammer, and a chisel. lol. after buying a $5 dollar chisel @ sears, we quickly determined I had wasted $5.

3) drill the screws out! - Sounds like a marvel idea! but wait! you dont want to drill the hub... Hub sits behind the rotor.. how to avoid this?


stupid rotor screws.... stupid rotor screws... who's your daddy now?


after i saw r1366's rotors come off the 'hard' way at watkins, I decided it was time to improvise...


can we say, anti seize?


this thing needs to be cleaned.


[Off topic picture...]
Good grief..front driver side tire after one hpde at watkins....wtf? this doesnt look like normal wear... its at every spot where the azenis water channel exist... its not a rock... i'm overdriving these tires, yet I dont know how this one appeared to be the only one that seemed this badly damaged


Notes to add: Drilling out rotor screws: you dont want to drill into the hub, if possible. best possible way to avoid this is to use a drill bit just large enough to fit through the rotor screw hole. then after you drill deep enough (just about past the rotor), take a larger drill bit (slightly smaller than size of screw top) and goto town on the screw head. it should rip right off.

 

BFH solves everything

 

I'm sorry, I must have missed my name in the bibliography.

What size drill bit did you use by the way?

 

Actually a proper sized bit in a impact screw driver does work about 98% of the time. Key words Proper size bit

 

I guess my rotors fell in those 2 percent then, huh, Rob?

 

I had the right sized bit but of the worst quality ever

 

Hehe true.

 

What is the proper size bit? #2?

A good way is to dremel a slot for a flat head and just use the flat head impact driver and it will come right out.

 

I'm sure its #2 but there is a #2 with teeth on it and it grip and never slips. I forgot what its called.

Maybe it's #2 reduced???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A good way is to dremel a slot for a flat head and just use the flat head impact driver and it will come right out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What I did to get a friends rotor off the other day

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the proper size bit? #2?

A good way is to dremel a slot for a flat head and just use the flat head impact driver and it will come right out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what i also did also..

after the proper sized screw phillips head decided to bend on me at the will of the screw.

thank god we have those 2 other holes you put the bolt into.

i tried to get rotors off a ford contour... they just sit there. my roommate drove the car till there were no pads at all, none, the pad backing was dug into.

i couldn't get the ****** off. ford sawzalled it off.

i don't enjoy fixing fords

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the proper size bit? #2? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes. Add a 4lb sledge to the backside of the impact driver, and you will get very little resistance from the screws.

And when the rotor is still rusted to the hub, thread in a pair of 10x1.25 bolts on the unused holes and pop it off the hub.

Wear on those falkens = normal Both front tires looked like that, all the way around, on my car after a weekend at CMP.

 

awwwwwwwwwwwwww. The little girl is getting her hands dirty!

 

"Anti-seize compound...a man's best friend"

 

Hmmm. Thanks for the reminder.

I need to take off my wheels/rotors/calipers and apply anti-seize to various areas on my new shitbox. Just a habit I got into with new cars from way back. Helps later on.

Did the same thing with my Hype R @ like 7K miles and I haven't had a problem with anything seizing.

 

great write up !

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And when the rotor is still rusted to the hub, thread in a pair of 10x1.25 bolts on the unused holes and pop it off the hub.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

some rotors are beyond bad
the last ITR brakes i did
I used those two holes to help get the rotor off
and the rotor hat cracked
wound up hitting the **** out of the rotor, probably took over 50 strikes to get that bugger off

Edgar made a good trophy out of it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes. Add a 4lb sledge to the backside of the impact driver, and you will get very little resistance from the screws.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats exactly what I used... 2 taps and that was all it needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually a proper sized bit in a impact screw driver does work about 98% of the time. Key words Proper size bit</TD></TR></TABLE>

Used a proper sized bit and have tried on multiple cars, lots of different hammer sizes and people trying also.... we concluded that buying the impact driver was a waste of money.

None of us use screws on our rotors anymore

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and the rotor hat cracked</TD></TR></TABLE>

That happened on my 91 integra

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">None of us use screws on our rotors anymore </TD></TR></TABLE>

I do

anti-seize + impact driver = easy jerb

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I do

anti-seize + impact driver = easy jerb</TD></TR></TABLE>

Waaaaaay to much extra work for me, so I dont even bother with screws..

Goot thread

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the proper size bit? #2?

A good way is to dremel a slot for a flat head and just use the flat head impact driver and it will come right out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the correct bit size is #3, if you use a #2 and a impact driver on a seized screw, your more than likely to damage the screw head then remove it.
also using the proper technique with the impact driver yields better results. some people turn the impact driver the direction they want the screw to go and then strike it. WRONG, this will more often then not, damage the screw head and not remove the screw. what i find works well is to place the driver on the screw and make sure it is not turned one way or the other, then strike the driver a few times and start rotating it in the loosening direction while continuing to strike it.
time the strikes while your turning the driver,do not turn the driver if your not hitting it. lastly do not crank on the driver while hitting it, just lightly apply a counterclockwise twist to it.

 

On any Honda that I know that will probably have rusted rotors.

1) Drill through center of screw with a 1/4 bit or so taking care not to mess up the head too much. Don't use too large of a bit, but not too small of a bit either.

2) Then, use an impact driver with #3 head.

I have never had this method fail on me.