Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff
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Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff
Im in MInnesota and i need help to get my car running. i purchased the EK with a swap already performed. i added the turbo and one day, my timing belt snapped and fucked up my internals. i replaced the head with one i got from here, bought new pistons, rings, bearings and rods and installed them per spec. its been 6 months since my car last ran and i finaly got eveything put together and it cranks but wont start. for the person who can come over and get my car running, u get choice(s) OR ALL of the items below:
b18b short block-bare
b18b crank
b18b crank/main bearing housing
b18b rods and pistons
b18b head (may have bent valves)
2 sets of both intake and exhaust b18b cams with gears
EK dx ecu
EG dx timing belt (new)
EG dx head gasket (new)
EG dx water pump (new)
EG stock corners
96-98 silver fenders left and right
turbo manifold for b18b to tdo5
entire EK interior except dash and front seats
EK stock radio and CD player (2 units)
i may have other stuff in my garage i forgot about...
also if u are willing to come from far away, food and shelter is included with unlimited beers (if u drink) for the duration of ur stay. i just want my car running please.
Modified by 98B00STED at 9:21 PM 11/7/2004
Modified by 98B00STED at 12:39 AM 11/9/2004
b18b short block-bare
b18b crank
b18b crank/main bearing housing
b18b rods and pistons
b18b head (may have bent valves)
2 sets of both intake and exhaust b18b cams with gears
EK dx ecu
EG dx timing belt (new)
EG dx head gasket (new)
EG dx water pump (new)
EG stock corners
96-98 silver fenders left and right
turbo manifold for b18b to tdo5
entire EK interior except dash and front seats
EK stock radio and CD player (2 units)
i may have other stuff in my garage i forgot about...
also if u are willing to come from far away, food and shelter is included with unlimited beers (if u drink) for the duration of ur stay. i just want my car running please.
Modified by 98B00STED at 9:21 PM 11/7/2004
Modified by 98B00STED at 12:39 AM 11/9/2004
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From: MN or Cali, depends which office Im at
Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (9psiTurboSI)
i got the timing belt and #1 piston, distributer at TDC. as far as fuel and spark, i have no clue how to check. i can hear the fuel pump turn on though.
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From: Baltimore, MD, USA
Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (98B00STED)
cranks, but doesn't start... first i assume the firing order is correct on the car? 1342 and on the cap starting on the lower left when looking from passenger side of the car, and cyl 1 being the first on the driver side of the car...
do you have good compression (210-180 i've been told normal on hondas but should run with even lower compression...), and since it did not start, and while checking the compression check the plugs, if they're fouled maybe you're not getting spark...
unforunatly on a honda the coil is built to the dist. but i think you can still disconnect the coil wires off to the back side with those plastic pieces...
so if the plugs are not fouled and full of gas the next thing to do would be disconnect the coil, and pull the fuel rail. remove on injector at a time, and set the rest of the injectors back into the manifold. if each sprays correctly i would then use a BBQ lighter with a long neck and burn out as much of the fuel as you can.
so with that checked you will then have the basis of knowing if it is your fuel system that is giving you the problem or if it is the ignition system causein the problem judging on the results of those... if the plugs are fouled the ignition system needs a look over and if the injectors aren't spraying right then you know that is the problem...
do you have good compression (210-180 i've been told normal on hondas but should run with even lower compression...), and since it did not start, and while checking the compression check the plugs, if they're fouled maybe you're not getting spark...
unforunatly on a honda the coil is built to the dist. but i think you can still disconnect the coil wires off to the back side with those plastic pieces...
so if the plugs are not fouled and full of gas the next thing to do would be disconnect the coil, and pull the fuel rail. remove on injector at a time, and set the rest of the injectors back into the manifold. if each sprays correctly i would then use a BBQ lighter with a long neck and burn out as much of the fuel as you can.
so with that checked you will then have the basis of knowing if it is your fuel system that is giving you the problem or if it is the ignition system causein the problem judging on the results of those... if the plugs are fouled the ignition system needs a look over and if the injectors aren't spraying right then you know that is the problem...
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Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (JustinG60)
ill try. but i tried so many things...i know that my plugs are plugged into the right places, i dont believe that my fuel injectors are bad because they were new when i added the turbo...im so desparate. 
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From: Baltimore, MD, USA
Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (98B00STED)
ahhh turbo... i would also think to check the fuel pressure coming in at the rail but i never heard of that causing a car not to start... what kind of engine management were you running again?
can you get the bottom end to TDC and then check the timing on the cams? maybe when it was torn apart the timing belt was put on wrong...
when i did my truck motor the people who did it told me the built it to TDC but it was 180 over...
(but they're really good at rebuilds which shocked me)
can you get the bottom end to TDC and then check the timing on the cams? maybe when it was torn apart the timing belt was put on wrong...
when i did my truck motor the people who did it told me the built it to TDC but it was 180 over...
(but they're really good at rebuilds which shocked me)
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From: Twin Somewhere, MN, USA
Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (98B00STED)
Ha, i might know what it is, I had similar problems. The motor turns but it doesn't start up, i thought it was the timing, i checked it over, and it was fine. I found out that i couldn't get spark. to find this out, you have a screw driver in one of your spark plug wire and touch the engine somewhere while trying to turn the car over. If it sparks then the car will spark and it probably will be the fuel issue. But if it doesn't then, it's probably the distributor. It was my distributor, check it out. Could be it! good luck
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From: MN or Cali, depends which office Im at
Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (DSR!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DSR! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ha, i might know what it is, I had similar problems. The motor turns but it doesn't start up, i thought it was the timing, i checked it over, and it was fine. I found out that i couldn't get spark. to find this out, you have a screw driver in one of your spark plug wire and touch the engine somewhere while trying to turn the car over. If it sparks then the car will spark and it probably will be the fuel issue. But if it doesn't then, it's probably the distributor. It was my distributor, check it out. Could be it! good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>
so i stick a screw driver (the metal tip) in one of the spark plug wires and the other end (metal part) to another metal part of the engine? it wouldnt short anything?
so i stick a screw driver (the metal tip) in one of the spark plug wires and the other end (metal part) to another metal part of the engine? it wouldnt short anything?
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Raleigh, NC, USA
Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (98B00STED)
I had the same problem a few months ago... here's what I did.
I went to Advance Auto Parts and got an Ignition Spark Tester and a little Multimeter. First off, with a friend, we read the instructions on the back of the spark tester and checked that we got spark. There was spark. (It turned out to be the ignition coil, it was sparking, but not enough to spark the fuel).
Then I loosened the banjo bolt on top of the fuel pump and turned the key to accesories, if fuel system works, fuel will leak out all over the fuel filter.
Then I took out each injector and measured the resistance across each, it was around 14 ohms each for my application. If you have original Honda injectors, they should be about the same and the deviation should not be more than 2 ohms.
So, if fuel works and there is spark, then its most likely the ignition coil. Go get a new distributor (it might be a good idea to replace the module since the coil has gone bad), plug it in, see if it makes a difference.
Or, you could skip all of the above steps and go get a distributor (not from a Honda dealership), try it, and if it doesnt work, you can always return it.
I went to Advance Auto Parts and got an Ignition Spark Tester and a little Multimeter. First off, with a friend, we read the instructions on the back of the spark tester and checked that we got spark. There was spark. (It turned out to be the ignition coil, it was sparking, but not enough to spark the fuel).
Then I loosened the banjo bolt on top of the fuel pump and turned the key to accesories, if fuel system works, fuel will leak out all over the fuel filter.
Then I took out each injector and measured the resistance across each, it was around 14 ohms each for my application. If you have original Honda injectors, they should be about the same and the deviation should not be more than 2 ohms.
So, if fuel works and there is spark, then its most likely the ignition coil. Go get a new distributor (it might be a good idea to replace the module since the coil has gone bad), plug it in, see if it makes a difference.
Or, you could skip all of the above steps and go get a distributor (not from a Honda dealership), try it, and if it doesnt work, you can always return it.
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From: Baltimore, MD, USA
Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (CRXNuts)
unscrew one of your spark plugs, put the sparkplug wire back on the plug, hold the wire and set the plug against the block to ground the plug and have someone turn the car over... (please only do this if your plug wires are good and not cracked and dry rotted cause if they're bad you can get shocked but a lesser chance than trying to find spark with a screw driver?)
if you do not see a blue spark and you see a yellowish spark or none at all chances are your ignitor is bad... typical problem, i foud out today mine is bad cause i get a very weak spark, and if your ignitor is bad your car will not start...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=555555
is a way to bypass the ignitor with an MSD box, which i will more than likely do, but i do not know how to wire in the external coil to get the spark to the dist. rotor...
it's an easy task i'd try it, but it takes 2 people...
if you do not see a blue spark and you see a yellowish spark or none at all chances are your ignitor is bad... typical problem, i foud out today mine is bad cause i get a very weak spark, and if your ignitor is bad your car will not start...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=555555
is a way to bypass the ignitor with an MSD box, which i will more than likely do, but i do not know how to wire in the external coil to get the spark to the dist. rotor...
it's an easy task i'd try it, but it takes 2 people...
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From: Twin Somewhere, MN, USA
Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (JustinG60)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustinG60 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">unscrew one of your spark plugs, put the sparkplug wire back on the plug, hold the wire and set the plug against the block to ground the plug and have someone turn the car over... (please only do this if your plug wires are good and not cracked and dry rotted cause if they're bad you can get shocked but a lesser chance than trying to find spark with a screw driver?)
if you do not see a blue spark and you see a yellowish spark or none at all chances are your ignitor is bad... typical problem, i foud out today mine is bad cause i get a very weak spark, and if your ignitor is bad your car will not start...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=555555
is a way to bypass the ignitor with an MSD box, which i will more than likely do, but i do not know how to wire in the external coil to get the spark to the dist. rotor...
it's an easy task i'd try it, but it takes 2 people...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea 2 people, one to turn the key and try to start the motor, while the other test the spark. Do not connect it, you have to hold on to it and pretty much just touch a ground part. don't hold it there though. when you touch a ground part, it should spark, if not, then it's the distributor. the coil is around $300 buck from the dealer, very expensive for a little piece, but a very important piece
if you do not see a blue spark and you see a yellowish spark or none at all chances are your ignitor is bad... typical problem, i foud out today mine is bad cause i get a very weak spark, and if your ignitor is bad your car will not start...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=555555
is a way to bypass the ignitor with an MSD box, which i will more than likely do, but i do not know how to wire in the external coil to get the spark to the dist. rotor...
it's an easy task i'd try it, but it takes 2 people...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea 2 people, one to turn the key and try to start the motor, while the other test the spark. Do not connect it, you have to hold on to it and pretty much just touch a ground part. don't hold it there though. when you touch a ground part, it should spark, if not, then it's the distributor. the coil is around $300 buck from the dealer, very expensive for a little piece, but a very important piece
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From: Baltimore, MD, USA
Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (DSR!)
oh you could also run an external coil if it's a spark problem... MSD cap Part number 8290 and Accel 8140 coil is what i used, i just didn't finish it casue i broke another bolt on the lower motor mount of my SRT4 today...
or if it's no spark at all it would be an ignitor... then you could still run the external coil and then an MSD ignition box and never have to worry about having an igntior go bad again...
and it's a power adder too haha a friend of mine on an LS/VTEC turbo put 15 to the wheels when he put his on (well tell it off to see on a dyno and saw a 15hp loss in power)
or if it's no spark at all it would be an ignitor... then you could still run the external coil and then an MSD ignition box and never have to worry about having an igntior go bad again...
and it's a power adder too haha a friend of mine on an LS/VTEC turbo put 15 to the wheels when he put his on (well tell it off to see on a dyno and saw a 15hp loss in power)
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Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (93b18civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93b18civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you fix it yet?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no not yet. i need to buy a new battery cuz i think it sat too long and died. then ill try to check the spark and fuel....but i still need help from someone who knows motors more than i do. i can do mechanical **** like put a turbo in but when it comes to electrical and sensors and stuff...im all lost.
no not yet. i need to buy a new battery cuz i think it sat too long and died. then ill try to check the spark and fuel....but i still need help from someone who knows motors more than i do. i can do mechanical **** like put a turbo in but when it comes to electrical and sensors and stuff...im all lost.
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From: the backwoods, usa
Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (98B00STED)
damn if you closer i would come help you out for sure but i am in southern MN. any twin cities guys willing to make a trip north.....
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From: Corona, CA, usa
Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (98B00STED)
Have you checked the distributor cap and rotor? Check for corrosion on any of the contacts. If there is then just take a screwdriver and scrape it off.
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From: mn
Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (98B00STED)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98B00STED »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no not yet. i need to buy a new battery cuz i think it sat too long and died. then ill try to check the spark and fuel....but i still need help from someone who knows motors more than i do. i can do mechanical **** like put a turbo in but when it comes to electrical and sensors and stuff...im all lost.</TD></TR></TABLE>
any luck?
im still trying to work on getting up there. hopefully saturday. its a 2 hour drive
but hopefully worth it to both of us 
no not yet. i need to buy a new battery cuz i think it sat too long and died. then ill try to check the spark and fuel....but i still need help from someone who knows motors more than i do. i can do mechanical **** like put a turbo in but when it comes to electrical and sensors and stuff...im all lost.</TD></TR></TABLE>
any luck?
im still trying to work on getting up there. hopefully saturday. its a 2 hour drive
but hopefully worth it to both of us
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From: MN or Cali, depends which office Im at
Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (93b18civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93b18civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
any luck?
im still trying to work on getting up there. hopefully saturday. its a 2 hour drive but hopefully worth it to both of us </TD></TR></TABLE>
saturday would be cool. no luck yet...i dunno what to check. im gonna go pick up one of them spark plug testers from autozone in st.cloud tomorrow.
any luck?
im still trying to work on getting up there. hopefully saturday. its a 2 hour drive
but hopefully worth it to both of us </TD></TR></TABLE>saturday would be cool. no luck yet...i dunno what to check. im gonna go pick up one of them spark plug testers from autozone in st.cloud tomorrow.
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From: MN or Cali, depends which office Im at
Re: Minnesota: FREE B18B1 and other stuff (93b18civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93b18civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont need one. what time are you going to be in st cloud tomorrow?</TD></TR></TABLE>
**** i should have checked HT.com before i left. well i just got ur PM and its 11pm. im gonna try calling u, hopefully it aint too late for u.
**** i should have checked HT.com before i left. well i just got ur PM and its 11pm. im gonna try calling u, hopefully it aint too late for u.
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