Just finished swapping motor but won't start... ideas?
Hey guys,
After something let go in my old H22A4, I swapped in a JDM H22A. In order to get it to work, I swapped the following from the JDM motor;
- used my 5th gen distributor, ignition coil, oil pump + housing, wire harness, IM, and alternator.
- OBD1 ecu + OBD2 -> OBD1 conversion harness.
- OBD1 resistor pack + OBD1 injectors (peak and hold).
We (Mark aka mstewar and I) tried starting motor last night but it seems like it won't catch (starter is fine). We pulled out a spark plug (brand new) attached it to a wire and tried starting it... there was no spark. Fuel is coming out of the injectors. We tested for continuity in all the wires, ignition coil and altenator... no problems. I had a VAFC on but I removed it to rule it out. There are no CEL codes either. For jokes, I tried plugging in my OBD2 ECU to see if it would just start (trying to rule out ECU and immobilier system), but it still wouldn't catch. What am I missing? I'm going to start swapping ignition parts soon with Mark to try to completely rule out some parts. Oh yeah, I have a lightweight Hawker battery which was on a battery charger while we were trying to get the car to start.
Any suggestions would be great.
FYI, the motor started fine before the swap.
Keith
Modified by Keith at 8:05 AM 11/4/2004
After something let go in my old H22A4, I swapped in a JDM H22A. In order to get it to work, I swapped the following from the JDM motor;
- used my 5th gen distributor, ignition coil, oil pump + housing, wire harness, IM, and alternator.
- OBD1 ecu + OBD2 -> OBD1 conversion harness.
- OBD1 resistor pack + OBD1 injectors (peak and hold).
We (Mark aka mstewar and I) tried starting motor last night but it seems like it won't catch (starter is fine). We pulled out a spark plug (brand new) attached it to a wire and tried starting it... there was no spark. Fuel is coming out of the injectors. We tested for continuity in all the wires, ignition coil and altenator... no problems. I had a VAFC on but I removed it to rule it out. There are no CEL codes either. For jokes, I tried plugging in my OBD2 ECU to see if it would just start (trying to rule out ECU and immobilier system), but it still wouldn't catch. What am I missing? I'm going to start swapping ignition parts soon with Mark to try to completely rule out some parts. Oh yeah, I have a lightweight Hawker battery which was on a battery charger while we were trying to get the car to start.
Any suggestions would be great.

FYI, the motor started fine before the swap.
Keith
Modified by Keith at 8:05 AM 11/4/2004
I might be saying something completely stupid right here...but I am trying to learn. I am trying to understand, too.
Here goes. Why did you swap over all of your ODBII parts if you are going to use the ODBI ECU?? Why not just use your ODBII ECU now that the motor has the ODBII parts on the engine?? Is that what you meant when you said that you tried your ODBII ECU???
As for the no spark.....did you check to make sure the coil wire was attached securely?? Check all of your fuses too.
I am really curious to see what could be causing this. I guess I was lucky. I swapped the JDM H22 into My Si and she fired right up.
Here goes. Why did you swap over all of your ODBII parts if you are going to use the ODBI ECU?? Why not just use your ODBII ECU now that the motor has the ODBII parts on the engine?? Is that what you meant when you said that you tried your ODBII ECU???
As for the no spark.....did you check to make sure the coil wire was attached securely?? Check all of your fuses too.
I am really curious to see what could be causing this. I guess I was lucky. I swapped the JDM H22 into My Si and she fired right up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ya, check ignition components/wiring. Make sure the coil has ground.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Coil has ground to the block, just above the tranny. The ignition coil itself has continuty but we still have to check the connection back to the ECU.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Coil has ground to the block, just above the tranny. The ignition coil itself has continuty but we still have to check the connection back to the ECU.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I might be saying something completely stupid right here...but I am trying to learn. I am trying to understand, too.
Here goes. Why did you swap over all of your ODBII parts if you are going to use the ODBI ECU?? Why not just use your ODBII ECU now that the motor has the ODBII parts on the engine?? Is that what you meant when you said that you tried your ODBII ECU???
As for the no spark.....did you check to make sure the coil wire was attached securely?? Check all of your fuses too.
I am really curious to see what could be causing this. I guess I was lucky. I swapped the JDM H22 into My Si and she fired right up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I decided to take the opportunity to go on OBD1 with peak and hold injectors. If I do decide to swap back to OBD2 (which there is no real advantage in doing), I would have to swap back injectors and remove the resistor pack. Either way, the injectors are deliver fuel so that's not the problem.
All fuses are good.
Keith
Here goes. Why did you swap over all of your ODBII parts if you are going to use the ODBI ECU?? Why not just use your ODBII ECU now that the motor has the ODBII parts on the engine?? Is that what you meant when you said that you tried your ODBII ECU???
As for the no spark.....did you check to make sure the coil wire was attached securely?? Check all of your fuses too.
I am really curious to see what could be causing this. I guess I was lucky. I swapped the JDM H22 into My Si and she fired right up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I decided to take the opportunity to go on OBD1 with peak and hold injectors. If I do decide to swap back to OBD2 (which there is no real advantage in doing), I would have to swap back injectors and remove the resistor pack. Either way, the injectors are deliver fuel so that's not the problem.
All fuses are good.
Keith
Start narrowing down where the problem is with the ignition.
Check to see if the spark plugs get spark. If not, check to see if the dizzy is getting spark. If not, check to see if the wires going into the coil are getting voltage. If not, you got a problem on up the line that's not related to the ignition components.
Check to see if the spark plugs get spark. If not, check to see if the dizzy is getting spark. If not, check to see if the wires going into the coil are getting voltage. If not, you got a problem on up the line that's not related to the ignition components.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrettyLude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and check engine light codes?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Keith »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> There are no CEL codes either. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Keith »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> There are no CEL codes either. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Found the problem guys... I didn't swap the crank t-belt gear. I was able to start it up but received a cel 4 code. I need to swap the balance crank gear too so the CKP sensor can read it.
Keith
Keith
pull the coil plug to see if you are getting spark at the coil... if you arnt, then you can rule out the distributor. it seems a little wierd that you are using the external coil distributor since the h22a has an internal coil, therefore a different wiring harness as well
i have a 96 prelude si and i swapped in a OBD I motor in. i had the worst luck with it because i tryed re-wiring everything myself (theres a thread i started that has a guide on it).
So, i just took it to the shop and it was the "sen" senser or something like that, which was causing my motor to die/not start whenever it wanted. i would go the re-wiring way <U>ONLY</U> if u know exactly what ur doing.
ill find the thread with the guide. ps. i used the h23 fuel rail with the h22 injectors. i also used the jdm dizzy and a OBDII-OBDI conversion harness from lightning motorsports. that is all to make it run fine
So, i just took it to the shop and it was the "sen" senser or something like that, which was causing my motor to die/not start whenever it wanted. i would go the re-wiring way <U>ONLY</U> if u know exactly what ur doing.
ill find the thread with the guide. ps. i used the h23 fuel rail with the h22 injectors. i also used the jdm dizzy and a OBDII-OBDI conversion harness from lightning motorsports. that is all to make it run fine
do you know what is that sensor? I have a h22 obd2 motor turbo charge swap into a 94 civic hatch but unlucky the motor got blowed up during a race in the highway. now i have a obd1 motor into the hatch, but than the car won't start after the swap. all the harness wires are obd2 and the motor is obd1. i rewired the dizzy from the obd2 crank sensor to the obd1 dizzy..the car cranking up...but it won't fire up...please anyone help to get this babe start.......
Modified by Tenji at 3:19 PM 8/19/2006
Modified by Tenji at 3:19 PM 8/19/2006
Sorry to Bring this back up.....but my buddy is putting a jdm h22 (obd1) into a 2000 honda prelude base.....and I wanna know how to keep the distributor obd1 instead of going back with the obd2 distributor and have to replace the oil pump with an obd2 and the required sensors. I know I have to switch to obd1/2 style injectors.....But wiring the distributor for the sensors on the oil pump and the internal coil is where i need some advice..thanx
Honda-Tech Member
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From: land of the sheep, home of the hypocrite
just move or add the crank sensor wires to the distributor. you can probably get a mating connector from a salvage yard if you want it to look professional.
yeah thats what I was thinking......but some people say it isn't worth moving the wires (causes too much problems or something ) I really dont see it being that bad with a good soldered connection. OH yeah what about the internal coil in the obd1 distributor any suggestions?
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