heres a shot of the new engine and h23 tranny installed.



i am this close to being done the swap/5spd conversion, but can someone help me with the wiring? i cant locate anyone who has done this before, and the helms isnt even much help. what wires at the shifter do i connect to simulate Park? i just need the car started.




Modified by klutch44 at 5:24 PM 11/1/2004

 

you can't simulate park with a standard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by master_sooner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can't simulate park with a standard.</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually, you can.

Check the guide to basic accords. The guy who did the write up in their (5th gen though) had to do it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by master_sooner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can't simulate park with a standard.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont think you understand what i am trying to do..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

actually, you can.

Check the guide to basic accords. The guy who did the write up in their (5th gen though) had to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

would the wiring be the same for mine? i swore there was more 6th gen people converting their cars. where are they all?

 

Method 2: I did not remove the a/t control unit, no need to, just extra time to do it. There is also some more wiring that I had to do, maybe because I didn't pull the computer, not sure. When you pull the auto shifter assembly, there will be 4 or so harnesses left laying there. On one harness (on the drivers side, I think it was the biggest connector on that side) I connected pin # 2 (green) to pine #5 (counting sraight accross, left to right) brown or black, not sure, its a ground I think, and the other harness I had to modify was also on the drivers side of the shifter assembly, its two bigger guage wires, I just connected them together. These two harnesses control the kill starter (makes sure car is not in gear when you start it) and the other makes it so you can take your keys out of the ignition, basically, I tricked the computer into thinking it is always in park.

that is straight from the how to, but my car has none of those wires.

 

help

 

i saw this on a site before, when i get home ill post the link if i kan still find it. im thinking about doing the swap myself later when i have the money

 

ok

 

talk to jimmyrecluse on v6performance.net under 6 gen av6, hes done this before. I think he may have the same user name on this board too.

 

its the clutch interlock system which wont let you get the key out of the ignition.

on my tranny conversion, when i took the auto shifter apart under the shifter was a white switch box that was connect to the auto shifter. just manually move the switch in the the switch box up to park.



the white retangular switch below the drill and above the shifter. im pretty sure the 6th gens has something similar to that. with the switch moved to park your shift indicator should be lit in park and you should be able to get you key out of the ignition.

 

Ok, I just got mine running and starting. Took about a week and a half to figure out. I too have a 99" accord that went auto-manual. 1st, you MUST use the auto wiring harness. There is nothing that needs to be done at the shifter. Just put your auto shifter in park and un-plug it. Then to start it take the range control switch off of your auto tranny, its the sensor on the side with the long wiring harness and the big plug. Cut the sensor off. Connect the # 1-3-8 wires together. Leave the other wires alone. Then plug this into the big plug in the engine bay by the tranny. To get you speedo to work you have to re-wire that too. Cut the wires for you counter shaft speed sensor. The blue wire that turns into a big shielded wire is your 5v ref. wire. The other wire is your ground signal, just trace it to the ecu inside the car and cut it and ground it out. The blue wire needs to be re-pinned at the ECU. If you have a helms manual read the section about the ECU plug wire locations and that wire goes to the VSS sensor out put. IT will be the blue connector. As for the speed sensor working. You need somthing to plug into it. The center wire is ground. You'll ahve to read but one of the out side wires is the 5v signal wire and the other is a fused ignition voltage. just tap into any wire that turns hot when the car is running but 0v when the car is off. If you need more help try and pm me with exact ? and I'll try to answer them. I really need my book in front of me to answer this completly. Hope this helps.

 

The plug in your top pick LEAVE IT ALONE. It doesn't get connected to any thing. Read above, this is not your problem.

 

awesome. well i dont have my automatic shifter anymore, and i cant remember if it was in park when i removed it. will that matter?

i dont have the automatic tranny anymore, so should i just wire those three wires together? i dont have the range control sensor.

and for the VSS, all i did was plug the auto VSS wiring harness into the 5spd VSS. will that work?

and did you do anything about the clutch pedal? mine seems weak with just two bolts holding it on. did you weld it or anything?

 

i did no wiring at all, just moved the switch to park and left everything as is and pulled out the tcu put in a 5spd ecu even though it was running fine with the auto ecu and zip tied the plugs from the auto tranny that werent needed anymore. tach and everything was still working fine. the only wiring i havent done is the reverse lights which really isnt a high priority.

yes the vss connector from the auto harness will plug into the 5spd vss

the 'shifter' switch is not directly connected to the shifter it connected to the wiring in the console. you dont need to remember if you had your car in park or not get your finger and push the switch all the way up to Park.

my clutch pedal is pretty sturdy considering i have an exedy cerametallic 3 puck thin sprung clutch which is pretty stiff and the pedal gets abused. i just used too bolts, washers, and nuts.

 

I believe your talking about a 5th gen. not a 6th gen. the speed sensors are very different on these two. There are 2 speed sensor on the 98+ accord versus the 94-97 witch uses the same VSS on auto and manual. The ecu MUST be re-pinned for this because the auto wiring harness does not have this wire in the correct location.

If you dob't have the range switch any more then if your looking at the big plug in the engine bay you will need to connect the top out side 2 wires together and the lowest left. I believe the color is red. I'm going to go work on the car again to night and will get deff. colors of wires for you. The 6th gen accord are a pain in the *** to wire compaired to the 5th gens.

As for running the auto ecu, you can but your speedo will never work. THe auto speed sensors send out different pulses then the manual speed sensors.

 

yeah i was on an 'obd I' train of thought, i forgot that the tcm on obdII's are embedded in the ecu.

 

ok, i think its wired up properly, but there is no pressure in the clutch line AT ALL. i already installed everything, but now i might have to do it over.

 

alright fellas, i need some help again. im gonna PM you turbowa.

 

no pressure in the clutch line?

did you bench bleed clutch cylinder and then bleed and bleed again when installed?

 

yup. but the probem i am having now is the immobilizer.

 

the clutch is working, it flexes alot, but its working. as for the car running, im getting help from turbowa...

 

I pm'd the break code a little bit ago to ya, hope you got it if not it's: 52263. This is the break code for the vin number/ECU you gave me. I hope you under stand how it works though, its kind of comfussing. Let me know how it turns out.

 

ya, thanks again. im at work right now, but ill try it first thing tomorrow morning.

 

ok, i had to get another ECU. the one i had was 2001 and my car is a 98. the OBD is different. so i have this ECU now, with no VIN. can i take it to the dealer? or is the a way to disable the immobilizer?