Hey guys i am going to buy a 2000 civic si. the guy i am buying it off of says it needs a throw-out bearing. I have bounced this idea around and i am not sure if he is correct so i would like to ask you guys because i know there are a lot of people on here who can help me.

The car has 135k and runs strong. The noise is a loud whirling kind of howl only when the clutch is engaged. When the clutch is to the floor it makes no noise, back out noise. There are no grinds and goes in and out of every gear fine and does not pop out of gear. there are no vibrations though the shifter at all. No slippage from the clutch.

Now i went along with him on the throw-out bearing because it makes sense, but it doesn't make sense that it stops when the clutch is disengaged, thus cutting off the tranny. so i started to think this could be something in the tranny, possibly diff?

What do you guys think? open to all and any opinions. this is very important to me because i need a car asap and don't want to buy a money pit.

Thanks

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2051578
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1999434

 

Bad input shaft bearing in the transmission most likely, the bearing itself isn't worth much, but the labor to put it in probably is unless your doing it yourself.

 

thanks guys. i was beginning to think the same thing.

 

ISB and 4 seals = $125 if tranny itself was brought to me....but your in da PITT....being a bengal wanna be fan I gota charge double

Depending on your level of mechanic ability, you might be able to tackle it yourself.

 

lol i don't know man, considering a Bengal can't tackle i might be able to tackle it haha

 

I dont understand why people would point you to a Input Shaft Bearing.

Genereally while driving the car in 5th gear maybe like 35-40 mhp, youll be able to hear a whinning while the clutch is engaged. That usually points a bad ISB.

In the event that youre describing it sounds like a TOB to me. Although the TOB is always spinning with the clutch engaged or disengaged, when you put pressure on it (engaging the TOB further) it puts more pressure on the actual bearing part of the TOB and quiets it down.

This has just been my personal experience with like..... A LOT Honda/Acuras.

 

And also, out of curiosity, how much are you paying for the car?

 

hey thanks for the input. paying around 6500 with a little body damage.

 

Thats not too bad.

 

Generally if you depress the clutch pedal and can hear bearing noise its the throw out bearing, some throw out bearings turn all the time, some only turn when the clutch pedal is depressed, honestly i don't know for a fact what honda uses, but i've seen enough of these threads to place my bet on the ISB which turns when the clutch is out.

 

hey guys i called honda to order a bearing for the tranny and he is telling me there are two bearings on the input shfat, then on the main or output shaft there is one. which one do i want to replace? i thought it was the main shaft bearing? I am also getting the throw out bearing. do you know anywhere online where i can order these also?

 

Then you apparently don't have any real experience.

Failure of the inboard mainshaft bearing is one of the most common problems with D- and B-series manual transmissions. I've personally replaced four of them on D15, D16, and D17 transmissions in the past 6 months.

On the other hand I haven't seen a bad clutch release bearing in a Honda in several years, and our shop services over 70 Hondas & Acuras per week. They are not a common failure point at all.

A bad release bearing will make noise only while the clutch pedal is being pushed in, when it contacts the fingers of the pressure plate. The release bearing does not spin while the pedal is out.

The mainshaft bearing spins whenever the pedal is out and whenever the car is rolling with a gear selected. Mainshaft bearing noise is almost imperceptible in higher gears at speed, because revs are low and road noise is high. You will typically hear mainshaft bearing noise while rolling with a lower gear (1st or second) selected, or when sitting still in neutral at an idle with the clutch pedal out. When the pedal is pushed in, and the car is standing still or neutral is selected, the noise will disappear because the mainshaft stops spinning.

 

The noise almost always lies in the inboard bearing, which is the one in the case, not on the shaft. The "input" shaft is the mainshaft. The "output" shaft is the countershaft.

You will need Honda part number 91002-PS1-003. You should also replace the transmission main seal (91216-PH8-005), which is directly underneath the bearing you'll be replacing.

You might as well buy a complete clutch kit with pilot and release bearings included. Since you'll be dropping the transmission, now is the time to install a new clutch so you won't have to do it again soon. I recommend having the flywheel resurfaced when replacing the clutch to avoid chatter.

Also, you might as well replace the rear main crank seal while the transmission is off - part number 91214-PLE-003.

 

I've done well over 250 Honda trannys, how many had a bad throwout bearing????

ONE.

 

I've seen a handful of bad TOB's....but this is definitely a bad ISB.

 

Holy crap you guys are cheap! I checked your site- I love indy Honda people(me being one)....but I can't believe your prices! What's your labor rate? How many techs?

 

Bench work on a tranny is $25 an hour, 2 hour min.

Self taught after watching Honda Tech, namely the original writeup about a 4.25 Si FD into a DOHC ZC tranny.

http://hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/zcsifdswap.html

read about getting the parts mixed up and counting teeth, I was the one that caught the error by counting teeth, Somehow a 4.058 DX FD ring gear got mixed in........

Oh yeah, John Murphy (former member here) installed the reverse idler gear upside down, something I learned about and never duplicated.

Damn that page is almost 10 years old.........