i looked in the "end of idel surge thread" or w.e its called and didnt really see anything like what i experience.....


frist off. when the car gets turned on; untill the temp gauge is at "normal" it idels a bit high. but im sure this is normal. and its steady. so no concern there.

after it reaches normal temp and idels down to normal. it will stay a steady idel, but as soon as i give it gas and go to move it will go fine, then when i come to a stop it will surge from around 800ish-1400ish

but heres the another kicker.... if i hold it at around 1400 rpms, (just enough gas to make it stop) and then slowly let the pedal out as the idel slowly comes down, the idel will "relax" at about 900 but it is very tedious. and if i go to fast letting off the pedal, it will start surging up and down again.


the motor is a jdm h22a obd1, in a 1995 prelude tps has been replaced. and oh it did it when i got the motor done last winter then stoped in the warm weather. and now its back in the cold.(it would rarely do it in the warm weather and when it did it would only go 2 or 3 times then settel its self down)

 

not to be a dick or anything but it's idle. just thought it would help if you're searching the right word.

 

that was no help what so ever. b.c you type idel insted of idle.. woohoo. you still knew what i was talking about and had no reason to post if you didnt have any information.i asked what the problem was/what to do to take care of it ect. not how to spell idle. so has anyone else had this same situation who has useful information?

 

In the FAQ
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1979500
also when searching check the "archived threads" button

 

type surge, they have a huge post

 

yes i know. but its not the same. this is afftected by COLD the cold makes it un stable. it dosent do it all the time (well now it dose b.c its cold out. but when sping comes around it will prob stop again like it did last year) what in the intake system would be affected by cold

 

sounds like a fast idle valve issue.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Giant_Bean &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the FAQ
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1979500
also when searching check the "archived threads" button</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

so would that be "FITV" that isrefrerd to in that tread? i know ppl use antomons and just expect every one to under stand what they mean by them..

 

yes, fitv.

"fast idle thermo valve"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lrayford &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that was no help what so ever. b.c you type idel insted of idle.. woohoo. you still knew what i was talking about and had no reason to post if you didnt have any information.i asked what the problem was/what to do to take care of it ect. not how to spell idle. </TD></TR></TABLE>

He was suggesting that you spell it correctly when you're searching because if you spell it wrong you're not gonna find crap. Learning how to use punctuation correctly wouldn't hurt either.... i'm still amazed at america's level of education as proof by you...

 

ok. ill try tighting the cable.

drben shut up. this thread nor site has nothing to do with writing/spelling/usage. u all under stood what i ment. and guess what theres alot of machaincs who are damn good and cant even read. so stfu this site is for guys and girls to discus there cars and find help troubelshooting probelms, not to re do 9th grade english

sorry but by the way thanks acidcracker, ill try that now, i do recall it being a littel loose but it wasnt extreamly loose to were i was worried about it.. ill take a peak. thanks

i have to do emissons and they wont even run the car with it idleing how it is and im on my last extension and im not trying to get my regerstration supended

 

ok so i did step 1,2,3... i dont know what 4 is (iacv) i knwo it stands for intake air controle vavle, but idk where it is or what iut looks like so i cant unplugg it to see if thats what it is hence i have no clue what it is. same with 5. idk what or were the egr vavle is.

and the FITV... i belive its in the bottem peice witch i didnt have replace. but the littel black dimond shape sensor thats attacked to that on the front size of the throttel body was replace. but no "vavle"

so can some one give me a detial discription of the looks of and where to find the (iacv) and the (egr) sensor b.c unpluging them is going to be the best way to troble shoot the problem b.c it dosent cost me anythign to unplug something. it dose cost me money to buy a part .... some one oout there... HELP i need to do my emissions b4 my regerstration gets supended !!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

ok thanks to majestic. i was able to find the "FITV" says nothing about a "thermo" in the name. but its on the back of the throttel body and i did what the idle thread said. unpluged it while it was bounceing...

it bounce 1 time after it came disconnected and then stoped and steadyed out at about 1100 rpms. and threw a check engine light. i pluged it back it and it said at aroudn 1100 still and wouldnt come down to adverage 800-900. so i turned the car off. and started it abck up... the check engine light turned off...

so to make sure thats what it was i tryed to get it to surge again but its kinda warm out today so idk if it wont do it again b.c its warm out. b.c like i said.. in the warm weather it RARELY dose it.. so

maybe it had a bad connection. idk. tonight im gonna take it out and see if it dose it again when it cools down... if it starts surgeing im gonna disconnect it again and see if it stops...

i disconnected the egr and it still kept doing it. so im not possitive but i think i found the problem.

 

Sounds like FITV might be clogged, bad, or screwed in too far/not far enough. Focus on that instead of the EGR.

FYI, drbenne and ethereal2pt2 had valid points. If you can't spell, it makes searching for things much more difficult. They WERE being helpful. Snapping back at them is useless. As far as your retort about mechanics who can't read, big deal. Lots of retards are socially functional, but in the end, they still run in the Special Olympics. Striving to be like that is much like a little girl wanting to be a crackwhore when she grows up. Now don't be so defensive about your lack of education. Just fix it.

 

the FIV i did what the other thread said.. unpluging the connector while it was surgeing. and it did it twice just to double check to make sure that was really the problem. and both times it stop surging and steady out at about 1100 and when i pluged it back in it surged again. so i got it figuared out..i think...

but user acid cracker or w.e his name is... is telling me that that is only for when the car is cold and not warmed up yet....

and my idle surges AFTER its warmed up.. not b4... but like i said once unpluged it stoped surgeing. and in the other thread it says that i it stops when u un plug it then thats whats bad. so idk?

could it still cause it to surge at "normal" engine temp. b.c the egr didnt respond when i unpluged it.. it just kept surgeing.

whats every ones thought on the FIV makeing my idle surge AFTER warm up... not during?

 

take your car to a mechanic. too many variables.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take your car to a mechanic. too many variables.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and pick one that can read

 

alright every one whos helped me thanks so much... so heres what iv done...

fixed my FITV (tightend it down as directed) (buttt used the one off my old motor b.c the one on my motor now looked to be dirtyer and wasnt tight.. so i cleaned it and tightend it down ect)

i tryed to take the IACV off but i cant get the bolt of b.c of this....

and a futher away shot...


so i wasnt able to get it off, but i noticed... that the IACV on my motor now looks like this.

and the one form my other motor looks like this...


is the difference in the sensor goign to cause a problem?
how can i get around that line in my way... (tryed 1/4 inch rachet and shallow 12 and tryed a 12 wrench... hopefuly the FITV i replaced today and cleaned was the problem and i wont have to take off the IAVC but if i do, what would u suggest? please help!!!!!!! i have till the 28th to get this idle bounce fixed and passed emissons on my reg. gets supended!!!! pleaseeeeeeeeeee!

oh yeah and if u notice the bolt can only be wreched from 1 postion b.c the IACV blocks half of it.. but if u look at the OTHER one that came off my old motor... youll notice that u can get a wrench anywhere on that nut.. and the one i cant get out is starting to strip 2

please help me guys this is my only car right now and i need to b.c my job requires me to travel.. i cant affored to get my regerstration supended please help me get this thing to pass my the 28th... im on my final extension!!


Modified by lrayford at 2:48 PM 11/7/2008

 

BUMP

 

guys seriously! help me out i NEED this fixed.. my job requires me to drive all over MD i need this fixed by the 28th so i can hve atleast a shot at passing emissions so my regerstration dosent get supended.. i havent passed in 2 yrs and i dont get any more extensions!!! this is it... seriously help me out.

i know SOME ONE has ran into this problem with the IACV b4 im not the only person ever with a clogged IACV, so i know some one has had trouble just like iam haveing! just help! my days are ticking

and its not the FITV, i "fixed" that and it still surged last night it has to be IACV but i cant get it off

 

thanks! i didnt know if it would like spill every where or put air pockets or something!..
not a good signthough....

the 28th is comeing


oh yeah.. i ran it today b.c it was fairly warm and the idle was pretty steady so i fig what the hell... but it still idled about about 1000 witch is kinda high.. but atleast it was warm and wasnt surgeing...


Modified by lrayford at 11:00 AM 11/8/2008

 

lol i know they wont take the car..
but if ur regerstration gets supendend u have to turn ur tags in. and if you dont ur right the mva will fine u every month.. and then u have to pay 200 for new tags when it finaly gets reinspected and then, have to pass emissions like 2 months later and blah blah blah.. to much hassel

.. or i can just fix the only problem i have (the idle) and be legal and not have to pay fines every month and so on... if i buy and have a OEM cat installed it will put me over the $450.00 waver requirement... but that still wont fix my idle...


my plans are i guess 2... 1 fix the idle problem, 2 new oem cat cuz i dont wanna fail b.c of a high flow cat and new exhuast (hopefuly pass emissions with freash pipe and cat so hopefuly no carbon and i can pass, be a littel quicker and legal all at the same time)

... my numbers this time look way better then last time though... laast time was like 667ppm for (hc) and state requirement is 220 lol so im a littel closer...

i kno wmy buddys dodge truck had a bad cat and it made his truck run like hell and would sputted... do u think that the cat on my car could be makeing my car surge or no b.c mine only dose it when its cold out side AND "normal" engine temp. (his truck was obd2 if that makes a differrence..)??

 

To clarify, I believe you are mixing up two different things that affect your idle: the FITV (fast idle thermo valve) and the IACV (idle air control valve).

The FITV is what controls your car's idle speed when it's cold. It is completely mechanical and has no wiring or sensors attached to it. This is underneath the throttle body and is based entirely on coolant temperature.

The IACV is what controls your car's idle speed when it is at operating temp. This is what is attached to the front of the intake manifold that has the connector you are unplugging.

It seems clear to me that your idle problem is being caused by a bad IACV. You've even verified it by unplugging it and the surge goes away. Replace your IACV. You should be able to get a stubby wrench in there and get that bolt loose. Different intake manifolds have different IACV's, which is why this one looks different than your old one. Make sure when you replace it, you get a compatible (exact same) IACV to replace it.

Your emissions problems are not likely being caused by the IACV. Like others have mentioned, if this is your stock cat on a '95, it's probably time to get replaced.

 

I'm sure there are many ways to get the bolt off. I used a 12mm gear wrench with a socket adapter.

 

yeah well all i have is a 1/4 inch wrachet.. and that nut and screw on the rail gets on the way so i cant use that.. and i can prob get it with a wrench... but i need to buy me a torque wrench so i can move the fuel line (pictured in my way) and put it back... i dont have many tools yet

no bodys really said anything about the different sensor type though.. they are both of a jdm h22a intake manifold.. thanks for all the positive input form every1 though