Expanded Break-In and Building Advice
Just launched the redesigned site, with a few more articles. One that could benefit this forum can be found at http://www.cccylinderheads.com/ Click on "tech" then on "85x89 Build". It is too much to post here, or to directly link because it is a frames deal.
nice tech section CC
i have a few questions if u dont mind answering
- u said that u were shooting for the 4 outer main to have about 0.0017 - 0.0018 " and the middle to have 0.0019' . What do u usually shoot for , for the rods ?
- what viscosity is the Joe Gibbs XP3 oil that ur using ?
- for your tranny , have you ever tried the GM synchromesh friction modified ? I ve had pretty good experiences with them . The redline MTL on the other hand , felt very notchy when it got hot .. maybe thats jus me ..
i have a few questions if u dont mind answering - u said that u were shooting for the 4 outer main to have about 0.0017 - 0.0018 " and the middle to have 0.0019' . What do u usually shoot for , for the rods ?
- what viscosity is the Joe Gibbs XP3 oil that ur using ?
- for your tranny , have you ever tried the GM synchromesh friction modified ? I ve had pretty good experiences with them . The redline MTL on the other hand , felt very notchy when it got hot .. maybe thats jus me ..
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do well does your head suck?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have had a few beers tonight but no matter how many times I read this it says the same thing and is not making sence to me lol
I have had a few beers tonight but no matter how many times I read this it says the same thing and is not making sence to me lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do well does your head suck?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are using ARP head studs, how come you do not follow there instrustions after the first warm-up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
DOH! You caught me. I usually dont retighten them after the first heat cycle, I usually do it after the dyno. This is not what ARP recommends, but is better than never doing it at all.
DOH! You caught me. I usually dont retighten them after the first heat cycle, I usually do it after the dyno. This is not what ARP recommends, but is better than never doing it at all.
Most never do that or re-adjust vales. It is a Honda, get it running and no maintance.Well maybe an oil change. I do a longer break-in, but I am an old Chevy/Ford guy. LOL I am getting the take it to the dyno now thing. If you you buy a chipped ECU for your specs, they do not know crap. If you get a AEM, Hondata S300, Motec, DTA, GEM, the owner does not know crap. With that I agree, take it somewhere, that someone knows something. It is starting to make some logic. Please go somewhere that someone knows what a timing lite is. I got it. took awhile, but I got it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phil M »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn, that was hard to read Don.
</TD></TR></TABLE> True, but I now understand, take it to a tuner before you FACK it up. That makes a logical argument. Never thought about it that way. Most of my customers actually know how a car/engine works.Setting ign. timing is not a 2 day internet search, I forget that sometimes.
</TD></TR></TABLE> True, but I now understand, take it to a tuner before you FACK it up. That makes a logical argument. Never thought about it that way. Most of my customers actually know how a car/engine works.Setting ign. timing is not a 2 day internet search, I forget that sometimes.
Very good read. great information. I whole harted agree with the "get it to a tuner" mentality. I can build an engine and swap one, to every thing in-between but when it comes to tuning them I'm down right retarded. I know better then to try it my self and after getting it fired up and idle like you did for the first time. Its good night and a trailor ride till it get's to the tuner.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So then are you for beating on the engine almost immediately or slowly increasing rpm as you put on some miles. I iz confuzed now
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I heat cycle it once like I mentioed in the article. Once it is on the dyno, he gets the A/F for the idle and part throttle stuff right, and then does subsequent full throttle pulls, working up to the final redline.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I heat cycle it once like I mentioed in the article. Once it is on the dyno, he gets the A/F for the idle and part throttle stuff right, and then does subsequent full throttle pulls, working up to the final redline.





