Hello!

I just recently blew my poormans type r setup I guess sh*t happens.

Anyway the reason for this post is, I need a new motor! I'm pretty much sold on the GSR. I was going to get it from Hmotoronline. My only concern before I buy it is this, The only GSR motor I've driven sucked! It had 220k miles in a 94 integra, totally stock. You hardly felt vtec. Actually I don't think it was even popping. Anyway it was rough.

So I just wanted to know how some owners of hatches with gsr swaps like them. Post videos, 1/4 times, love, hate, whatever! I just want to know from some more people before I buy it. Also anyone who has experience with hmotors, let me know how you liked them.

Thanks!!

 

gsr in a hatch you will feel vtec, that car will be in the low 14's high 13's with bolt ons and great driver

 

I like my gsr. Just put a skunk2 manifold or blox and some type r cams and a itr tb and you will like the motor. I have a vid on you tube on the dyno. It had a baseline dyno at 168hp to the wheels and i thnk 120 ft lbs of torque...i ran 14.062 in a quater mile and 13.8 with slicks... here is the link to my vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dom-uzXWpIo



Modified by eg6style at 5:55 PM 8/5/2008

 

my gsr swapped hatch with just a stock intake box dc 4-2 header and a rs*r cat back beat an s2k from a 30 roll by a car-ish.

 

Hmotors is deffinitly a legit place to get a motor from me and my bro each got new motors from there and they are deffinitly worth it and they ship right to your house.

 

I owned a i/h/e B18C1 swap in my ols 1992 Civic Si hatch.

It dynoed 150whp/122ft-lbs. of torque to the wheels, but it had a really broad, flat powerband. There wasn't a big dip, then surge forward when VTEC hit like there is with the B16A/B18C5 engines because the C1 is tuned for midrange power too. It just doesn't have the top-end rpm whp that the poor man's R would (if it pulled much like an ITR engine) so don't expect it.

My 2289lb. Si hatch on street tires pulled a 14.6 in the 1/4 mile at 890ft. above sea level. Not amazing, but it was a poor 2.2 60 footer.

I sold the B18C1 and got a 1998 USDM B18C5 ITR swap. It dyno'd 175whp/123ft-lbs. to the wheels with only i/e and Kenji P28.

Comparitively speaking the same exact chassis weighing in at the same 2289lbs. with a B18C5 swap with only i/e and a Kenji P28 ran 13.9 on a similiar 2.2 60 footer on street tires, same strip as my 14.6 B18C1 swap.

I've since swapped the C5 into a lighter chassis and ran 13.3@104mph on the 2.2 60 footer. I've also since added a header and tuned the C5 with cam gears and a Uberdata program to gain +20whp and +20ft-lbs. of torque in the midrange, and peak numbers of 178whp/132ft-lbs. of torque to the wheels. Have not since reran the 1/4 mile, but it should be a a sure-fire 13.0 or 12.9 with slicks and a good 1.8 69 footer, especially since pre tuned traps were 104mph.

The GS-R engine IMO is the most flexible. Good for boost, good to build N/A. I just don't like the taller geared tranny as much as a B16A/C5 tranny.

 

I don't think you will be happy with a stock GSR motor, depending on what you are coming from. Is nothing salvageable on your motor now? That would be the only way I would recommend a stock GSR swap. Don't get me wrong, I love my GSR swap, I just don't like to see people throw money way, when they could get more by fixing what they already have. You could probably buy a built block on the for sale forums for a decent price if that's all you need.

EDIT: Actually, I just read your thread about your motor, it doesn't seem that bad at all, you need a rebuild for sure, so go ahead and tear it all apart to see if your block is really sleeved or not. If it is, then shop around the for sale forums for pistons, rings, rods, and head studs. Then buy bearings and all the little stuff for your block and have your seals and valve guides replaced in your head. Spend $1000 or so and you will be pleased.


Modified by redman223 at 12:31 PM 8/5/2008

 

Thank you everyone for your advice!! It has been very helpful! I'm thinkin I'm gonna order it tonight.

redman223, I definitely see where you're coming from. It is a very valid point. I have three pretty big concerns on that though. 1st. I don't trust the motor. Since day one I've been having problems. I really don't know what was and wasn't done to it before but I do know it was hell for me. I would just hate to put a 1k into it and find some other random problem. 2nd. My experience and skill. I just barley know how to do a swap. I don't know anything about rebuilding motors yet. Not that I wouldn't like to learn, but that brings me to concern number 3. I'm working with limited time. This is my daily so I don't have the time to get rides to the machine shop and find the parts I need. I'm thinking of keeping the poormans R and rebuilding it as a side project. That way I can learn but still have a car.

 

I have a gsr in my ek hatch, it was pretty fun. Not a s fun as my previous B20 in my ef. However now I'm boosted and it's on top again. A pretty good amount of low end torque plus great power up top.

 

Yeah I know what you mean, the issue of time versus money. You will not be sorry you got a GSR that's for sure, and now you'll be able to take your time and tear apart your old motor. Or you could sell it and use the money to buy stuff for your new swap

 

i had three gsr eg hatches 2 white one and a green one, the one in my green hatch had a bone stock gsr swap that i pulled out and installed and it was runnin 14.3 in a quarter my white one had clutch flywheel msd wires cap blaster and intake and header i was runnin 13.8 u will not be dissapointed at all


Modified by donvito#1 at 12:00 AM 8/6/2008

 

GSR swap I/H/E & JDM ITR trans in a 1980lb 1992 CX

Ran a 13.9 on Yokohama street tires and 13.4 on MT slicks

 

i got a c1 in my si and i got a whale ***** intake. u hear the vtec pop for sure and the **** pulls hard.

 

I never ran faster than a 14.9 with my swap, and I can't even make any excuses, that was after 24 runs on a Wednesday night test and tune at Palmdale back in 2002...it was awesome, there was almost nobody there.

In my defense, that was with the header, cat, exhaust, and suspension all stock, and I believe that the stock GSR manifold had a problem where the secondaries didn't open up...the only aftermarket part I had back then was an AEM CAI made for the civic. But I was running on the *old* BF drag radials (the ones before the Christmas tree tread ones)...

 

Once again thank you everyone! I'm now convinced that I'll be happy with it.

Now I'm thinking of getting a Skunk2 pro intake manifold and Hondata intake manifold gasket before I drop it in. Does anyone have this setup? If so, how do you like it? Is it noticeable?

 

Well....I had the Hondata intake manifold gasket, but it was the old one, not the new one which I heard has been improved. After using it for less than a year it got brittle and cracked, causing a major coolant leak. Only took 20 minutes to replace it but still...to me it was a waste of money.

Though some of my other friends are using the new one and have not had any problems with it, maybe its made of a softer plastic?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Like Hondas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Once again thank you everyone! I'm now convinced that I'll be happy with it.

Now I'm thinking of getting a Skunk2 pro intake manifold and Hondata intake manifold gasket before I drop it in. Does anyone have this setup? If so, how do you like it? Is it noticeable? </TD></TR></TABLE>

What transmission and ECU do you plan in runninng?

IMO Skunk2/ITR style manifolds SUCK ***** on otherwise stock GS-R engines. You need the proper ECU program (based on an ITR, etc.) with the higher VTEC crossover (stock GS-R ECU is set at 4500rpm - way too low for Skunk2/ITR style IM) and then you need the shorter geared tranny as to not fall out of VTEC when shifting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What transmission and ECU do you plan in runninng?

IMO Skunk2/ITR style manifolds SUCK ***** on otherwise stock GS-R engines. You need the proper ECU program (based on an ITR, etc.) with the higher VTEC crossover (stock GS-R ECU is set at 4500rpm - way too low for Skunk2/ITR style IM) and then you need the shorter geared tranny as to not fall out of VTEC when shifting.</TD></TR></TABLE>I plan on running a b16 tranny. I have an ecu chipped for my old poormans swap, which I'm going to have re-chipped to something close to a stock gsr basemap. You do make a point for sure. If my motor is built for mid range and I'm throwing a high range intake manifold on it, that doesn't exactly make sense. Though, with the b16 trans and the chipped ecu maybe I could pull it off.

Question on the stock gsr manifold: It looks like its like flipped over or some crazy crap. Will my stock throttle cable still work on it?