R-box

I just did a search and couldn't find a decent How-To that was current with pictures, etc., and since I just performed this repair, I thought I'd
post it up here. Detailed descriptions are with the pictures and below all the pictures are Cliff Notes. Hope this helps!

The symptom my car had prior to repair was a metallic chirping that occurred when the clutch pedal was out/when the clutch was engaged or
in neutral -- like a metal cricket sound, if you will. This annoyed the crap out of me for months and until recently, nobody suggested that I just
lubricate the slave to alleviate the chirping!

1. Upon trying to remove the main slave cylinder boot, it practically "exploded" and tore on three sides (after 8 years of dry and hot weather)
while I was trying to pull it from the transmission (don't mind the red grease goo, it's been wiped off):


2. Here's the slave minus old boot/before clean-up. You will need to remove the two 12mm bolts from below the slave cylinder where it fastens
to the transmission (not pictured) and also the two 10mm bolts from the slave cylinder bracket so that the part is free to move about while the
lines are still connected.


3. Here is the new boot + urea grease purchased at Acura. Make sure you wear gloves when applying the urea grease as it claims to be a
skin irritant (hey, not everyone reads labels )
<u>-Part numbers:</u>
*urea grease: 08798-9002
*slave boot: 22841-P20-000


4. At this point what you want to do is, while making sure you're wearing gloves, get a little urea grease on a finger tip and put it between the
ball/receiving joint. What I actually did was put some in the receiving joint and make sure to coat the entire divet out to its edge as well as
put some grease on the ball and around the part just before the accordion boot behind it.

Also flipped off my car because this is the second time since I've owned it that the chirping has occurred.


5. In this step, you first need to put the new main slave boot over the diveted arm that extends from the transmission and push it into place -
make sure you get all the sides pushed into the transmission hole. Second, you should replace the two 10mm bracket bolts to get the slave
semi in-place. Third, put ball end of slave into the hole of slave boot and push leftwards until the accordion boot is all the way inside the main
boot. Fourth, replace the two 12mm bolts underneath the slave -- make sure to get them both started before tightening them down. And there
you go! A new boot installed and all back in place!


After this small repair job, I felt like this: "ZOMG! I sToPpEd R-bOx'S cHiRpInG!!!" Hope you do, too, with your car! Good luck!


<u>Cliff Notes of Procedure:</u>
1. Remove two 12mm bolts where slave cylinder fastens to transmission -- located below the slave on the face of the transmission.

2. Remove the two 10mm bolts from the slave bracket to the left of the transmission.

3. Remove slave cylinder by pulling it out of the main boot.

4. Remove L-shaped, main slave boot from transmission by pulling (or prying with a flat head screwdriver if tough & dried out).

5. Wipe off any old grease and debris from slave ball/receiving joint.

6. Re-grease with Honda/Acura Urea Grease (#08798-9002) on ball and in divet.

7. Replace old slave boot with new one (#22841-P20-000).

8. Put ball end of slave into the hole of slave boot and push leftwards until the accordion boot is all the way inside the main boot.

9. Replace the two 10mm bracket bolts.

10. Replace the slave's two 12mm bolts.

11. DONE!

***CREDITS***
I must thank Matt @ Hondata and Joe at LoCash for the advice to perform this repair as well as help over the phone making sure I did it right.
j00 guys are awesome and you know it!

Matt @ Hondata; username: Spunkster
Joe @ LoCash Racing; username: locash



Modified by R-box at 3:05 PM 6/4/2008

R-box

Aw!

Mr.OB*GYN_Rhett

iTrader: (2)

haha you said lubrication...
nice story

Spunkster

Joe and I get no credit?

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

G00d write-up man

JOHN WAYNE

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">G00d write-up woman </TD></TR></TABLE>

fixed that for you, sir.

The Kernel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R-box &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The symptom my car had prior to repair was a metallic chirping that occurred when the clutch pedal was out/when the clutch was engaged or
in neutral -- like a metal cricket sound, if you will. This annoyed the crap out of me for months and until recently, nobody suggested that I just
lubricate the slave to alleviate the chirping!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

OMG. Thanks!! My car has been doing this for years now.

I'll have to give this fix a shot.

red_crx

iTrader: (2)

I might just give this a try....I've had the little sound for a few months now, except it was hard to hear at first with no exhaust.

R-box

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spunkster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Joe and I get no credit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL! You DO come into the R forum!!!!!!!

driveslow

I thought that hand and fingernail in the first pic looked suspect... Good job homegirl

bigpunn421

does anybody run without a slave cylinder boot? my car doesnt have one. daily driver

i hear of people taking them out to cool the clutch, and some people remove the bottom clutch view plate.

what do you guys think?

00-1065

All the B series cars I've owned over the years had the dreaded clutch squeak at least twice during my ownership. Just so everybody knows, the squeaking will come back eventually and you'll need to clean and re grease everything up again. Currently the R is doing it again after two years of staying quiet. Gotta find time to do the procedure again.

stumpyf4

Pull the accordion boot off the slave and jamb some grease in there too. It gets pretty dry in there too. I use disc brake slider grease, don't think urea grease is needed here as there aren't any high temps.

ammz

i have done the same procedure prior to reading this article,, i have fixed the noise but while geting through this i unknowingly lossen the clutch line from where the clutch fluid started flushing out soon after i realise the situation i re tighten the clutch line and lost only few ml of clutch fluid out,,, kindly let me know does this lost fluid cause any problem to the hydraulics of clutch though the lost fluid wasnt significant enough to make any difference in fluid level. looking forward for your advice. thanks

PrinceAli132

Check the reservoir and top off if necessary. If wouldn't hurt to also bleed the line to ensure no air entered the system.

Ali