as title says...right now i am trying to remove my suspensions to put in springs..but the upper control arm is in the way. do i need to remove that?? or is there another way through this?

 

suspension is a bitch to put on the S, especially the rear

 

you don't have to remove it, just unbolt it so it hangs freely.

have fun putting the shock assembly back in...thats the worst part.

 

Just move it over to the side.

 

ya it comes out easy goin back in is the hard part.

just wedge it out from the side like papa5murf said push down on the lower controll arm at the same time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by velocityracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">suspension is a bitch to put on the S, especially the rear </TD></TR></TABLE>

are you serious?

suspension on the s2000 is cake.

unbolt the upper a arm, move it to the side. make sure you unbolt the brake line in both spots in the front, you don't want to stress the abs sensor. as for the rear, you don't have to unbolt anything but the suspension itself, but sometimes it gets stuck. just have someone stand on the rear caliper and push down and it should drop right out.

 

Just remember, before you tighten up anything, you need to preload the bushings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Francesco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

are you serious?

suspension on the s2000 is cake.

unbolt the upper a arm, move it to the side. make sure you unbolt the brake line in both spots in the front, you don't want to stress the abs sensor. as for the rear, you don't have to unbolt anything but the suspension itself, but sometimes it gets stuck. just have someone stand on the rear caliper and push down and it should drop right out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i totally agree... it took me and my buddy about 20 mins for each corner...

make sure the jack stands are safely set up before you put any pressure on the rear calipers/disks... and apply constant pressure instead of a jerking motion...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ricepicker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just remember, before you tighten up anything, you need to preload the bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

a couple of tips I'd give is, do the front then back, not side to side. cause if you jack it up on one side it'll be a pain to remove and even more to put back the shock..Trust Me..You do not have to remove the upper control arm, but will make life easier. In the rear use a swivel joint on the rachet to reach the nuts behind the gas lines. You really dont need a spring compressors, the springs only shoot out about an inch and a half.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ricepicker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just remember, before you tighten up anything, you need to preload the bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

explain...

 

Most suspension pieces with rubber bushings are preloaded from the factory. Say for example the upper A arm on the front, there are 2 mounting points to the chassis with rubber bushings. Before you tighten the 2 bolts connecting the A arm to the chassis, you need to connect everything back to working order and compress the whole suspension hub assembly, as if you were to have the wheel on and set it back on the ground, putting a jack under the hub (being careful not to bend the dust shield) and jacking up the hub, until the weight of the car is lifted from the jack stand and the suspension components are compressed as if the car were sitting on the ground, then you tighten the bolts down. Failure to do so can cause premature failure in the rubber bushings.


Modified by ricepicker at 5:04 PM 1/28/2008

 

^^how exactly are you gonna manage that? the wheel will have to be on in order to put weight on it...how the hell are you gonna get in there to tighten anything?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LAS2K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^how exactly are you gonna manage that? the wheel will have to be on in order to put weight on it...how the hell are you gonna get in there to tighten anything? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry it wasn't clear, But you aren't supposed to have the wheel on.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">putting a jack under the hub (being careful not to bend the dust shield) and jacking up the hub, until the weight of the car is lifted from the jack stand is enough and the suspension components are compressed as if the car were sitting on the ground, then you tighten the bolts down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

ahhh i posted before i saw you wrote that.

i understand.

 

lube all the bolts up. It will make life easier later if u decide to opt out for coilovers or just need to take the **** apart again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ricepicker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most suspension pieces with rubber bushings are preloaded from the factory. Say for example the upper A arm on the front, there are 2 mounting points to the chassis with rubber bushings. Before you tighten the 2 bolts connecting the A arm to the chassis, you need to connect everything back to working order and compress the whole suspension hub assembly, as if you were to have the wheel on and set it back on the ground, putting a jack under the hub (being careful not to bend the dust shield) and jacking up the hub, until the weight of the car is lifted from the jack stand and the suspension components are compressed as if the car were sitting on the ground, then you tighten the bolts down. Failure to do so can cause premature failure in the rubber bushings.


Modified by ricepicker at 5:04 PM 1/28/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

gotcha. its a little hard when working in a small home garage to do that. i usually just align everything back up, then put all the bolts in and make sure its set before i do the final tightening.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ricepicker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most suspension pieces with rubber bushings are preloaded from the factory. Say for example the upper A arm on the front, there are 2 mounting points to the chassis with rubber bushings. Before you tighten the 2 bolts connecting the A arm to the chassis, you need to connect everything back to working order and compress the whole suspension hub assembly, as if you were to have the wheel on and set it back on the ground, putting a jack under the hub (being careful not to bend the dust shield) and jacking up the hub, until the weight of the car is lifted from the jack stand and the suspension components are compressed as if the car were sitting on the ground, then you tighten the bolts down. Failure to do so can cause premature failure in the rubber bushings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

100% correct.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Francesco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
gotcha. its a little hard when working in a small home garage to do that. i usually just align everything back up, then put all the bolts in and make sure its set before i do the final tightening. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're able to jack the car up, you can do this.