My starter will not crank over with the key engaged in the starting position.

First off, I checked for continuous voltage going from the battery to the main starter terminal. Turned out good, 12 volts going to the o-ring terminal on the starter.

Then I used a jumper wire from the o-ring terminal (which has 12 volts) to the remote wire terminal on the starter. Starter cranked over, so I can rule out a bad starter.

Then I had my friend crank the car while I checked the voltage to the starter remote wire while the key was in the starting position... It read 3.6 volts, whereas I should be getting 12 volts in order to engage the starter.

I looked up the EF starting circuit diagram from the Helm's manual, here it is:

(Image shack pic host is down at the moment, I'll try to have the diagram posted asap for ref, its page 535 of 681 in the helms

I removed the steering column cover and checked the black/white wire solder terminal on the igntion/key switch while turning over the key... It read 12 volts on my multimeter.

Somewhere between the ignition switch and the starter remote terminal I'm getting a drop in the voltage causing the starter not to crank over. I thought there are a few interuptions before the remote terminal on the starter, such as the clutch switch, starter relay, etc. IS the diagram correct or are there other bypasses that are "in line" with that circuit before it reaches the remote starter terminal?

FYI, the 10 Amp starter fuse is good, and I can definately hear the Walbro fuel pump prime/turn on as I'm engaging the key in the start postion with the clutch pedal engaged to the floor, which leads me to believe the clutch pedal switch is fully functioning assuming it only provides voltage to the fuel pump and not to the starter.

Something worth mentioning...I have a Greddy turbo timer installed, need to look up the wiring diagram again but I'm not sure if it taps into the black/white wire from the ignition/key switch...

Any suggestions are appreciated, TIA



Modified by Nisif at 7:04 AM 1/16/2008

 

BUMP...

Unfortunately I can't get the diagram to upload although it wasn't much help in the first place.

The black/white wire runs from the ignition switch/key tumbler to the starter remote wire terminal. The black/wire runs to the fuse block, then to the starter relay, then to the clutch interlock switch before it meets the starter remote terminal based on visual inspection...correct if I'm wrong.

Anyhow, I tried splicing into the black/white wire after the ignition switch/key tumbler and running a jumper wire directly to the starter remote terminal and the starter still will not engage. I checked for voltage at that spot I spliced into and it read above 12 volts when the key is turned over and held in the starting position. Why is it not engaging the starter?

Btw, the turbo timer does not tap into the black/white wire off of the ignition switch so it shouldn't be an issue

 

Anyone have any input? I have the same exact problem with my EF. If you trace the black/white wire, I have continuity from the starter to the back of the fuse box, and from the front of the fuse box to the key/tumbler. It seems that my fuse some how has gone bad. Hopefully thats it. Keep me posted on whatever you find. Good luck!

 

thats weird im having the same problem on my ef, lol i got the start to roll over its just not starting now i pulled my plugs and have no spark, so my problem is im loosing power somewhere between then thus not giving me spark to my daily driver . So im pretty much SOL

 

Back from the dead, I had a few people pm me about the issue since the op.

I ended up replacing the ignition harness from the back of the key tumbler and disconnected the Greddy turbo timer. I only left two wires connected on the turbo timer so that it only displays battery voltage, but I don't have it tapped into the ignition harness any longer...I can live without it. I haven't had any starting issues since.

 

This helps alot. thanks man

 

Np, glad I could help